Tensioners question
#2
#4
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What's the scoop on the second gen tensioners. Failure rate and such.
I have a late 2002 xk8 and just poured a ton of $$$ into coolant repairs, hydraulic conv lines, rear shocks, new pads and disks, and air con repair. I just can't replace tensioners right now!! Car runs smooth as silk and synthetic oil change and such. Complete service too.
I'd rather put my 1200.00 into having my arden kit installed!!
I have a late 2002 xk8 and just poured a ton of $$$ into coolant repairs, hydraulic conv lines, rear shocks, new pads and disks, and air con repair. I just can't replace tensioners right now!! Car runs smooth as silk and synthetic oil change and such. Complete service too.
I'd rather put my 1200.00 into having my arden kit installed!!
#5
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The Arden kit won't save you if the tensioners fail and $1200 won't replace the motor.
You should be able to get an indie mechanic to do it for much less. Doesn't sound like you are a DIYer, but it can be done by the reasonably handy for the price of parts. (full disclosure, I am handy but opted to have this done by motorcarman instead)
My engine had 100K miles on her and the cracks were just beginning. Others on the forum have had badly cracked tensioners as early as 30K miles, so beware.
You should be able to get an indie mechanic to do it for much less. Doesn't sound like you are a DIYer, but it can be done by the reasonably handy for the price of parts. (full disclosure, I am handy but opted to have this done by motorcarman instead)
My engine had 100K miles on her and the cracks were just beginning. Others on the forum have had badly cracked tensioners as early as 30K miles, so beware.
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reb1999 (06-03-2014)
#6
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What's the scoop on the second gen tensioners. Failure rate and such.
I have a late 2002 xk8 and just poured a ton of $$$ into coolant repairs, hydraulic conv lines, rear shocks, new pads and disks, and air con repair. I just can't replace tensioners right now!! Car runs smooth as silk and synthetic oil change and such. Complete service too.
I'd rather put my 1200.00 into having my arden kit installed!!
I have a late 2002 xk8 and just poured a ton of $$$ into coolant repairs, hydraulic conv lines, rear shocks, new pads and disks, and air con repair. I just can't replace tensioners right now!! Car runs smooth as silk and synthetic oil change and such. Complete service too.
I'd rather put my 1200.00 into having my arden kit installed!!
It's not a matter of IF it's a matter of WHEN they will fail. The second gen will always fail sooner or later, it is best to have them done ASAP. The norm is 10 years or 100,000 miles. They can fail much earlier though. The third gen tensioners can last almost indefinitely, but the only thing that worries me about them in the long run are the shoes.
Costs of changing them? It depends. If you do it yourself, you can get the tensioners and bolts from Ford for about $120 total + shipping. It's advisable that you also buy the gaskets as well. Using the zip-tie method, it should be just a few hours of your day and patience.
However, if you decide to have a Jag mechanic or a dealer, the costs could be between $600 - $1000, depending on labor costs. I was quoted $734 by a Jag mechanic, I decided I'm going to do it myself in the summer. I already have the parts.
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reb1999 (06-03-2014)
#7
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Look at the build date on the driver 'B' colume. If it is somewhat after August 2001 you will have the metal tensioners.
For more assurance a polite call to a Jaguar dealer with your VIN will produce a report that contains all the build info on the car including the engine and transmission serial numbers. The engine serial number you are looking for is 010813xxxx (YYMMDDHHMM). Anything after that is metal.
For more assurance a polite call to a Jaguar dealer with your VIN will produce a report that contains all the build info on the car including the engine and transmission serial numbers. The engine serial number you are looking for is 010813xxxx (YYMMDDHHMM). Anything after that is metal.
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#10
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Exposure to Heat and Oil will discolor the Plastic in time.
The 3rd Gen Tensioners seem to use the same Plastic that was used on some of the earlier versions.
The critical difference is that the Plastic "Shoes" on the 3rd gen are a "Loose but Captive" fit. Even with shrinkage, the loose fit is maintained.
On the earlier gens, the plastic was tightly molded to the tensioner and the Plastic would Shrink with time, heat and oil, and crack loose from the Metal parts.
The 3rd Gen Tensioners seem to use the same Plastic that was used on some of the earlier versions.
The critical difference is that the Plastic "Shoes" on the 3rd gen are a "Loose but Captive" fit. Even with shrinkage, the loose fit is maintained.
On the earlier gens, the plastic was tightly molded to the tensioner and the Plastic would Shrink with time, heat and oil, and crack loose from the Metal parts.
The following 2 users liked this post by Paul Pavlik:
preuss2 (06-05-2014),
reb1999 (06-03-2014)
#11
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Exposure to Heat and Oil will discolor the Plastic in time.
The 3rd Gen Tensioners seem to use the same Plastic that was used on some of the earlier versions.
The critical difference is that the Plastic "Shoes" on the 3rd gen are a "Loose but Captive" fit. Even with shrinkage, the loose fit is maintained.
On the earlier gens, the plastic was tightly molded to the tensioner and the Plastic would Shrink with time, heat and oil, and crack loose from the Metal parts.
The 3rd Gen Tensioners seem to use the same Plastic that was used on some of the earlier versions.
The critical difference is that the Plastic "Shoes" on the 3rd gen are a "Loose but Captive" fit. Even with shrinkage, the loose fit is maintained.
On the earlier gens, the plastic was tightly molded to the tensioner and the Plastic would Shrink with time, heat and oil, and crack loose from the Metal parts.
Ah I see now.
#12
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Look at the build date on the driver 'B' colume. If it is somewhat after August 2001 you will have the metal tensioners.
For more assurance a polite call to a Jaguar dealer with your VIN will produce a report that contains all the build info on the car including the engine and transmission serial numbers. The engine serial number you are looking for is 010813xxxx (YYMMDDHHMM). Anything after that is metal.
For more assurance a polite call to a Jaguar dealer with your VIN will produce a report that contains all the build info on the car including the engine and transmission serial numbers. The engine serial number you are looking for is 010813xxxx (YYMMDDHHMM). Anything after that is metal.
#14
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I just did my tensioners a few weeks ago, if you have any mechanical abilities just follow the videos on this forum, it is spot on.
Here are the parts required, for you to do or take to your mechanic.
Ordered Tensioners from Kearny Pearson Ford, San Diego.
2W9Z6K254BA $55.80
2W9Z6K254CA $62.29
W500301S300 $2.36 ( Short Screws, MUST USE )
Felpro Valve Cover Gasket Set VS 50724 R Purchased mine at Advance Auto
Note: Al parts are for the Lincoln LS V8
Here are the parts required, for you to do or take to your mechanic.
Ordered Tensioners from Kearny Pearson Ford, San Diego.
2W9Z6K254BA $55.80
2W9Z6K254CA $62.29
W500301S300 $2.36 ( Short Screws, MUST USE )
Felpro Valve Cover Gasket Set VS 50724 R Purchased mine at Advance Auto
Note: Al parts are for the Lincoln LS V8
#15
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Probably OK, but you can't always trust the build date. They could have used an older engine that had not yet been installed.
Check the VIN with a dealer, go by the date on the engine, or pull a cam cover. Last option being the most reliable.
Check the VIN with a dealer, go by the date on the engine, or pull a cam cover. Last option being the most reliable.
#16
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I have another dealer in Wnston Salem that is much better so ill call them today. They're trying to get my business and have been much more helpful.
I'm surprised someone on the forum hasn't made that engine build date available!!
#17
#18
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My brother, whose a mechanic, says when he gets a chance he's going to take a look so hopefully all will be fine.
I've repaired about everything in this car!! I hope I get a break on the tensioners! (No pun intended!!!)
#19
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#20
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Exactly 1 yr ago mine went bad with only 66k miles. 2001 MY. I have the old ones in my office as a reminder. I still can't believe Ford used plastic housings in a high stress area. These should be replaced under warranty due to poor design...no such luck. The foot came off one and both had major cracks. Luckily no engine damage.