Testing Repaired Heater Pump
#1
Testing Repaired Heater Pump
Long story short, I got a donor car to replace my 1997 XK8's tranny with an A drum failure with a different tranny. Knowing my heater pump wasn't working, I snagged the donor heater pump, replaced the brushes and gave to the tranny guy to put in. I do not think it is working.
My question is: how do you bench test electrical devices like this to tell if they work? Is hooking a battery charger up to the wires too much juice? Is there a way to supply just the right amount of voltage to determine if your soldering job inside the pump is good before you take the time to install?
If I can get this repaired, my install is now going to be much harder and I want to know it is going to work.
Brian
My question is: how do you bench test electrical devices like this to tell if they work? Is hooking a battery charger up to the wires too much juice? Is there a way to supply just the right amount of voltage to determine if your soldering job inside the pump is good before you take the time to install?
If I can get this repaired, my install is now going to be much harder and I want to know it is going to work.
Brian
#2
#3
I did attach the heater pump to a battery charger with jumper wires. I am not sure if that was a electric overload that melted the soldered wires from the new brushes.
I am asking if this is OK to do (hook wires up to battery/battery charger) or if you have to somehow limit the voltage.
B
I am asking if this is OK to do (hook wires up to battery/battery charger) or if you have to somehow limit the voltage.
B
#4
#5
Easy way is to plug into the connector before plumbing ( with key off before running as it is a high current arcing hazard ) and hold tight as it will torque . This will ensure wire polarity as well . With a battery you risk arcing or shorting the pins with someone else holding the torquing motor . The electrical resistance of the motor will limit the current with a battery unless the motor is shorted internally . Battery charger depends on the chargers amperage as the motor is a somewhere 30 amp rating , a 5 amp setting will run slow as it is all it can supply . Replace the relay as the old pump may have damaged the power contacts inside .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-12-2018 at 12:29 AM.
#6
#7
You all must understand that where the heater pump is located does not make it easy to just plug back in and flip the switch.
Yes, I think a battery charger may have been overloading it.
I never thought of making sure polarity is correct also.
I just want to apply juice while it is out on my bench to make sure the motor purrs before i go through all the trouble of switching out with the non working motor.
B
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#8
Yes I understand the want for a bench test and the pigtail wire may be short as where it is installed . The charger won't overload it if as the motor has it's own wingdings resistance unless it has an internal short . Ensure to test it with say a 2 or 5 amp switch on the charger setting as you get your feel for it in probing the pins without touching the charger leads together . Then after you get a feel for it run the charger on the 50 amp setting ( if yours has one ) for true running power for a true run . Keep in mind possible arcing damage to the pins if that is what is there or put a paperclip if sockets . Going outside now to check on something else and will look at that motor side connector . The Yellow wire is the + and the Purple wire is the - .
The heater pump relay is in this pic for the marked washer pump for someone else : fuse box location fwd left engine
The heater pump relay is in this pic for the marked washer pump for someone else : fuse box location fwd left engine
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 01-12-2018 at 10:54 AM.
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