Thermostat options?
#21
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Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ge...AirWARNING.pdf
#22
#23
Obviously, "brevity is the soul of wit" is a concept foreign to a few here. Something that might warrant a simple and to-the-point response engenders a treatise on the history of the internal combustion engine and a "look at how much I know" bloviation.
Doug
#24
The short response is that motorheads like to talk tech talk of mechanical aspects in great detail. Others don't.
The stats by Brutal and and premises of others are highly informative in terms of calculating potentials such as they may be. Nor a minor topic particularly on a boosted motor where heat is a real challenge and limitation. Many "cold air" kits really are only cold air with a open hood - claiming large dyno increases. But in reality with the hood down the both cost power and risk engine denotation damage. That is a message worth repeating to newbies because those "top of motor cold air kits" make good - but false - sales pitches.
In suggests, instead, opting for the larger intercooler and/or water/alcohol injection - though neither are cheap. But they do offer real Horsepower potentials.
I noticed the 13 degree lowing potential and converted the email address to a website address to see if it listed a lower temperature thermostat. It didn't. But any source potential information is very appreciated. Thank you.
Does the Lincoln use the same thermostat? Don't they use a down tuned version of the 4.2?
Last edited by dfwx; 03-01-2010 at 10:30 PM.
#25
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#27
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you can always drill the t stat also. matter of fact on normally aspirated cars that little check ball tends to cause the lower hose to suck flat when the engine cools down and eventually works its way off the t stat housing. I pop the brass check ball off every t stat and never have issues with overheating and flatening the lower hose. This is an old trick especially with higher hp cars on the street with substandard cooling..It bypasses a little coolant all the time, and keeps the t stat from creating a hi surge when it opens. If you monitor the coolant data stream you can find out where you are and "tune" the stocker. Cost is nada
#28
#29
you can always drill the t stat also. matter of fact on normally aspirated cars that little check ball tends to cause the lower hose to suck flat when the engine cools down and eventually works its way off the t stat housing. I pop the brass check ball off every t stat and never have issues with overheating and flatening the lower hose. This is an old trick especially with higher hp cars on the street with substandard cooling..It bypasses a little coolant all the time, and keeps the t stat from creating a hi surge when it opens. If you monitor the coolant data stream you can find out where you are and "tune" the stocker. Cost is nada
BTW, don't you worry just a little that a clogged NOS "wet" fuel line would cause your 400 hp NOSer to instantly melt your pistons? NOS is the ultimate $$ value in acceleration -but it is scary in potential damage. I've discounted NOS on the Jag or at least limiting it to the 50 to 75 hp range.
#30
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#31
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User 070620 (09-05-2016)
#32
#33
I think we are all agreed that a cooler air intake is the bees knees. I would like to seperate the intercooler cooling fluid from the engines radiator and installing another dedicated radiator for the intercooler alone. Such a system would have it's own pump and thermostat. The question is where to get it? The set up does not seem to difficult if one can find an open spot in front of the engine radiator or air from under the car.
Ps: I tried Mina Gallery's "cool air intake" and had a huge loss of power, that sucker was pulled ASAP.
Ps: I tried Mina Gallery's "cool air intake" and had a huge loss of power, that sucker was pulled ASAP.
#34
#35
There already is a dedicated radiator for the intercoolers with it's own pump. Have you not looked under the hood of your car? Why would you want a thermostat for the intercooling? You want the coolant constantly flowing; a thermostat closes when the coolant cools down. Totally opposite of what you want.
#36
Looking at the diagrams, the engine and charge cooler radiators are joined at the hip like Siamese twins. There has to be heat bleed over from one to the other. A dedicated radiator with a thermostat would run much cooler but maintain a minimum and stable temperature in cold climes. Now, if I am reading the diagrams incorrectly, great, one less thing to worry about. However, it would be nice to drop the temperature of the charge cooler.
#37
Agree
I'm sorry, but you've been given a tremendous amount of incorrect information regarding the basic functions of internal combustion engines. It is indeed 'well known' but as a multitude of myths or legends and the source for many ill founded inventions that will supposedly extract all the hidden horsepower left on the table by the OEMs.
The false belief that 'cooler is better' gets thrashed constantly over on one of the other non Jag boards I belong to, so this is 'deja vu' all over again. You can beleive what you want and disregard that it defies all laws of physics but I'm sure nothing I can say will sway you one bit. I'll rely on my 31 years of working for an engine OEM to guide me.
The false belief that 'cooler is better' gets thrashed constantly over on one of the other non Jag boards I belong to, so this is 'deja vu' all over again. You can beleive what you want and disregard that it defies all laws of physics but I'm sure nothing I can say will sway you one bit. I'll rely on my 31 years of working for an engine OEM to guide me.
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