Timing chain tool set
#1
Timing chain tool set
Has anyone tried this timing chain tool set? Only 45 bucks on amazon. I am inclined to try it as doing secondary tensioners and I don't like the idea of actually removing the exhaust cam if i dont have to. It was only sticker shock leading me to the zip tie method, but doing it the "proper" way appeals if the tools don't set me back too much.
Figured ill try it and abuse Amazon's return policy but curious to hear if anyone's used it.
Figured ill try it and abuse Amazon's return policy but curious to hear if anyone's used it.
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User 42324 (08-02-2024)
#3
Has anyone tried this timing chain tool set? Only 45 bucks on amazon. I am inclined to try it as doing secondary tensioners and I don't like the idea of actually removing the exhaust cam if i dont have to. It was only sticker shock leading me to the zip tie method, but doing it the "proper" way appeals if the tools don't set me back too much.
Figured ill try it and abuse Amazon's return policy but curious to hear if anyone's used it.
https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Camsha.../dp/B09BV9TCDT
Figured ill try it and abuse Amazon's return policy but curious to hear if anyone's used it.
https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Camsha.../dp/B09BV9TCDT
If you have a torque wrench then removing the camshaft is actually very easy. Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft to a point where all the valves as a closed as possible and then progressively loosen the cap bolts. Note which cap goes where (I think they are numbered and arrowed). Installation is the reverse. The hardest part of the job is removing the cam covers as one or two of the bolts are not easy to access.
Richard
#4
That toolkit will work fine for the top-end.
But.....if you are going this far you might want to consider pulling the timing case cover and also replacing the primary tensioners and guides, you will also need the crank pulley lock for this procedure. It isn't a huge amount of additional work to just doing the secondaries.
If you're on the fence about the additional work, drop your old pan and check for any horrors in there (e.g. pieces of chain guide). Doing so will give you some guidance on what really needs to be done.
But.....if you are going this far you might want to consider pulling the timing case cover and also replacing the primary tensioners and guides, you will also need the crank pulley lock for this procedure. It isn't a huge amount of additional work to just doing the secondaries.
If you're on the fence about the additional work, drop your old pan and check for any horrors in there (e.g. pieces of chain guide). Doing so will give you some guidance on what really needs to be done.
The following users liked this post:
cjd777 (08-01-2024)
#5
That toolkit will work fine for the top-end.
But.....if you are going this far you might want to consider pulling the timing case cover and also replacing the primary tensioners and guides, you will also need the crank pulley lock for this procedure. It isn't a huge amount of additional work to just doing the secondaries.
If you're on the fence about the additional work, drop your old pan and check for any horrors in there (e.g. pieces of chain guide). Doing so will give you some guidance on what really needs to be done.
But.....if you are going this far you might want to consider pulling the timing case cover and also replacing the primary tensioners and guides, you will also need the crank pulley lock for this procedure. It isn't a huge amount of additional work to just doing the secondaries.
If you're on the fence about the additional work, drop your old pan and check for any horrors in there (e.g. pieces of chain guide). Doing so will give you some guidance on what really needs to be done.
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Last time I used the harmonic damper locking tool and a 2 foot breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe sleeved over the breaker bar to break the bolt loose. It made it a cakewalk. The only issue was I accidentally whacked one of the lamps hanging from my garage ceiling.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 08-03-2024 at 11:25 PM.
#11
The cranklock is in another toolkit that looks like this: https://zimber-tools.eu/rs/engine-cr...ann-tools.html
+ the mandatory breaker bar and 6 feet of steel tube - eat your wheaties before this job....
#13
Did you remove the radiator to be able to fit the impact wrench? I tried the impact on mine but there wasn’t enough room with the radiator in place.
#14
Well I'll be trying this today. Not doing the guides or lower, because I've inspected them with a borescope and they are fine, and the engine has less than 50k on it. At least one secondary is cracked, because I checked it a week ago, triggering this work. Also, I just don't think I can do the whole job with lower tensioners and guides in one day - a lot has to come off the front of the engine to get the timing cover off, I'd ideally want to pull the radiator fan shroud for access, haven't filled/bled the cooling system on this car before, and I don't have a garage to work in - I have to work outside. And I definitely don't want to leave the front of the engine open for more than a day, outside. So it is what it is. I feel doing the uppers is at the limit of my skill level at the moment. If I could leave it open in a garage I might be more inclined, but don't feel I have motive and opportunity for that lol.
Remains to be seen how painful it is to unbolt the sprocket versus unbolting the cam. That sprocket needs quite a lot of torque (115-125NM) going through a hex bolt. So I will make that decision once I have it open. I am still glad I got the tools to set and lock the engine at TDC, which I feel would also help with guaranteeing all valves are closed if I do lift the cam. Re clearance on that sprocket bolt as someone mentioned above, I am assuming that's why JTIS says use a long 10mm ball ended hex drive bit and to cover the cylinder head on the potential contact point:
Remains to be seen how painful it is to unbolt the sprocket versus unbolting the cam. That sprocket needs quite a lot of torque (115-125NM) going through a hex bolt. So I will make that decision once I have it open. I am still glad I got the tools to set and lock the engine at TDC, which I feel would also help with guaranteeing all valves are closed if I do lift the cam. Re clearance on that sprocket bolt as someone mentioned above, I am assuming that's why JTIS says use a long 10mm ball ended hex drive bit and to cover the cylinder head on the potential contact point:
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#17
So after much time wasting with finding TDC and all that, I did it the trusty zip ties and remove the cam way, and got one side done before running out of time and energy. Ill do the other next week. So today I learned how to bar an engine over, so that's something and how to find TDC (even if it was unneccessary) so you lives and you learns.
And yes, my upper tensioner was cracked in the traditional location.
The toolkit did have all the right stuff for locking the cranks, cams etc though, so that's nice.
Still flabbergasted that the previous owner had the valve cover gaskets done, but not the upper tensioners.
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RichardS (08-05-2024)
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