XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Tire question bbs

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  #21  
Old 09-27-2019, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by EnjoyEverySandwich
What Billy said. I had my tires mounted by an independent jaguar specialist that I trust. A regular tire shop could probably do it, but I was afraid that they'd forget to return my inflation adapters. I figured better safe than sorry.

You can get the extra valves and caps from either Dave Roche @ DCR, or order them directly online from PW motorsport here: https://www.pwmotorsport.com/pr,130,...bs-valves.html

You can also get extra adapters, bolts,etc from either as well. I had one of the caps fly off a while back, so I can attest to the value of having spares.
That website is pretty amazing!!! They have it all. Would you know by any chance which size should I get for the valves for the 20" Detroit BBS wheel? They have 26mm,28mm,31mm,34mm,36mm..etc. previous owner didn't leave me any specs.
Thank you for that. Really useful and hard to find.
 
  #22  
Old 09-27-2019, 01:21 PM
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The link I posted should go directly to the valves. But, for reference:

Valve: BBS part no. 09.15.071 (same with and without caps)
Inflator: 09.15.081

Basically, wherever it says jaguar on that website, that's what you're looking for.
 
  #23  
Old 09-27-2019, 04:37 PM
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Funnily enough I just changed the tires on my car. 2003 Convertible. 20" rims. Montreal wheels. Have a read, you might find useful information. Click Me To Read
 
  #24  
Old 09-27-2019, 08:16 PM
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Default Stupid beginner question

In order to have a closer look at my rotors, I need to remove a 20" BBS wheel (Detroit wheel). Do I need to remove the center cap in order to remove the wheel. In other words, is there a nut behind this cap that needs to be unscrewed to remove the wheel or just the 5 nuts like any other wheels?
Thank you and sorry for my lack of knowledge.
 
  #25  
Old 09-28-2019, 05:06 AM
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Originally Posted by alexander thegreat
In order to have a closer look at my rotors, I need to remove a 20" BBS wheel (Detroit wheel). Do I need to remove the center cap in order to remove the wheel. In other words, is there a nut behind this cap that needs to be unscrewed to remove the wheel or just the 5 nuts like any other wheels?
Thank you and sorry for my lack of knowledge.
Just the five Alexander. The cap will stay with the wheel.
 
  #26  
Old 09-29-2019, 06:24 PM
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Default Caliper bolt

Originally Posted by baxtor
Just the five Alexander. The cap will stay with the wheel.
Great thank you.
I'm going to change my rotors. Question, are there nuts and/or bolts that need replacement? Like calipers mounts, hub's, wheel's etc. in a few words, anything related to changing pads and rotors? I've read somewhere some are thread lockers and need replacement after a while. And also where to find these?
Thanks a lot.
 
  #27  
Old 09-29-2019, 08:47 PM
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Alexander...…..

Please, with your limited Knowledge, DO NOT attempt this job yourself! Please take the Car to an experienced Brake Mechanic, who has the proper Tools and Machinery to do a proper job on your Brembo's.....This is not a job for armature Mechanics, and you don't have the knowledge needed to do the job properly. The last thing you want to do is hit the Brakes and all Hell brakes lose!....This could be deadly to you or someone else! .

From the looks of them in your Photos, I would just leave them be, as they really don't need changing right now but that's up to you....This is going to cost you some big $Bucks!

Billy Clyde
 
  #28  
Old 09-29-2019, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by bcprice36
Alexander...…..

Please, with your limited Knowledge, DO NOT attempt this job yourself! Please take the Car to an experienced Brake Mechanic, who has the proper Tools and Machinery to do a proper job on your Brembo's.....This is not a job for armature Mechanics, and you don't have the knowledge needed to do the job properly. The last thing you want to do is hit the Brakes and all Hell brakes lose!....This could be deadly to you or someone else! .

From the looks of them in your Photos, I would just leave them be, as they really don't need changing right now but that's up to you....This is going to cost you some big $Bucks!

Billy Clyde
You're probably right! But I was planning to hire a mechanic to help anyway. I know how to torque and such. I have experience on Mercedes, did a bunch of work on it. But I guess I feel unconfident when it comes to Jaguar, everything is different, so I'm making sure of everything before I touch it. In any case, I had multiple bad experience with mechanics, so, unless I find a good one, it's a trade off to diy with help vs going to a garage.. Brakes are one of the most important parts of the car, that why I asked so much. Apologies if it's too much. It's just good to hear opinions from people I trust. People who have no incentives to lie and are not after your money. The community here is great and non judgmental.
Thanks.
 

Last edited by alexander thegreat; 09-30-2019 at 07:08 PM.
  #29  
Old 09-30-2019, 01:52 AM
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Default Pads thickeness

Hello jagurus,
Is there any advantage to pad thickness other then it would last longer? Did it offer a better grip or on the contrary can it cause too much friction?
Thanks
 

Last edited by alexander thegreat; 09-30-2019 at 07:01 PM.
  #30  
Old 09-30-2019, 07:17 PM
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Default Alex the Cheapskater

Originally Posted by alexander thegreat
Hello jagurus,
Is there any advantage to pad thickness other then it would last longer? Did it offer a better grip or on the contrary can it cause too much friction?
Thanks
Alex the last place you want to be a cheapskate is on your Brakes...Come on Man.....This is serious Business! Do it right or leave it alone!
BCP
 
  #31  
Old 09-30-2019, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by bcprice36
Alex the last place you want to be a cheapskate is on your Brakes...Come on Man.....This is serious Business! Do it right or leave it alone!
BCP
I'm buying good rotors and pads. Not the most expensive but the cheapest either ie $270 for my 2 rear rotors and $90 on rear pads. I spend a ton of money on my cars, believe me I'm not cheap. If I knew a place that I could trust I would gladly pay. But when you go to mechanics just for brake pads and rotors, at garages that have 5 stars on every reviews, and get your car back, with no brake fluid after they tell you they checked everything. You get burned a bit. Or an oil change, then you find out it's not even filled at the minimum! Or one time, the scariest, I found a steel pick 'floating' in the engine compartment that they had forgotten from a suspension job!! Another time, they supposedly checked the fluids. Then I find out the steering fluid is nowhere near the minimum as in empty tank. All of these in the 15 months!! I've spent thousands on repairs and maintenance like everybody here I'm sure. It's pads and rotors, it's important, and this time, I'm getting at much info I can and will be there while the job is done by a mechanic that I'm hiring. There's nothing wrong with that or cheap. I'm not going to do it myself. I'm getting an experienced mechanic that will do it and show me how. A lot of us here in the forum are trying to get information either to do it themself, but also to find out if they're being BS at the garage shop. That's why people share. I appreciate the help, really, really, thank you, but there's nothing cheap there.
Thank you for being a friend and looking out for me and for others.
 
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