Top hydraulic lines
#1
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OK, I'm new here and I love my newly purchased 1999 Jaguar XK8 convertible.
But, WOW, is it expensive to fix. And hard to find parts for. But I'll keep plugging. I've had it three months, and so far have had to fix the following: new front calipers, pads and rotors, rear pinion seal, valve cover gaskets, upper shock mounts, stabilizer links and bushings, and a new battery. And as soon as I thought I was in the clear, I had the "green shower". Yuck.
So I purchased soe new hoses and am going to try to tackle he job myself. Does anyone here have a set of instructions for doing the job, a link or something. I understand its a major undertaking but I'm tapped out for now. I'm fairly well mechanically inclined so I hope it goes well. But I want to do it right.
HELP!
And thanks in advance,
Oliver
But, WOW, is it expensive to fix. And hard to find parts for. But I'll keep plugging. I've had it three months, and so far have had to fix the following: new front calipers, pads and rotors, rear pinion seal, valve cover gaskets, upper shock mounts, stabilizer links and bushings, and a new battery. And as soon as I thought I was in the clear, I had the "green shower". Yuck.
So I purchased soe new hoses and am going to try to tackle he job myself. Does anyone here have a set of instructions for doing the job, a link or something. I understand its a major undertaking but I'm tapped out for now. I'm fairly well mechanically inclined so I hope it goes well. But I want to do it right.
HELP!
And thanks in advance,
Oliver
#3
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Summerville, South Carolina
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Oliver - welcome to the forum - as RJ mentions try a search of XK8 forum topics as well as check the How To's at the top of the XK8/R forum.
Forum member Gus has a great site as well JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Here is his direct link:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
As this is your first post - please stop by the new member section and post an intor:
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Forum member Gus has a great site as well JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
Here is his direct link:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
As this is your first post - please stop by the new member section and post an intor:
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
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oliver08 (08-23-2014)
#4
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I bought my lines from Gaudin Jaguar, the new lines are rated at 2,800 or 3,800 psi (Do not remember which).
To swap:
Remove door sill, kick panel, drivers seat, center console, rear seat bottom header and drivers side A piller covers.
Pull back carpet from the rear drivers side rear and pull forward.
Take a xcto or utility knife and cut all zip ties ( 2 by the rear speaker, 4-5 on the floor pan , 3 in trunk and for going up the dash and A pillar).
To make sure you connect the lines correctly, mark the line w/an 'F', it goes on the bottom port of pump and mark both lines at the latch a different color and mark the corresponding port the same color. This way after you remove the lines you mark the new 'F' line the same color as the old. This will save you take the lines off and flipping them around.
You want to pull the lines from inside the cab, i.e. pull lines from trunk and pull down from under the dash. Tape new lines to the old, will save you a lot of time.
I flushed all my old fluid here.
You will need to remove fuse panel cover and have a long (8-10 in) flat head to help guide the hoses down through the header panel and dash.
Make sure and replace the zip ties!!
Have fun, took me 4-5 hrs to do, but I also did some work around the center console.
To swap:
Remove door sill, kick panel, drivers seat, center console, rear seat bottom header and drivers side A piller covers.
Pull back carpet from the rear drivers side rear and pull forward.
Take a xcto or utility knife and cut all zip ties ( 2 by the rear speaker, 4-5 on the floor pan , 3 in trunk and for going up the dash and A pillar).
To make sure you connect the lines correctly, mark the line w/an 'F', it goes on the bottom port of pump and mark both lines at the latch a different color and mark the corresponding port the same color. This way after you remove the lines you mark the new 'F' line the same color as the old. This will save you take the lines off and flipping them around.
You want to pull the lines from inside the cab, i.e. pull lines from trunk and pull down from under the dash. Tape new lines to the old, will save you a lot of time.
I flushed all my old fluid here.
You will need to remove fuse panel cover and have a long (8-10 in) flat head to help guide the hoses down through the header panel and dash.
Make sure and replace the zip ties!!
Have fun, took me 4-5 hrs to do, but I also did some work around the center console.
#5
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Thanks to all who responded. I read and learned a bunch. But I chickened out on the installation.
I bought my lines from Cabriolet Hydraulics in Florida (Cabriolet Hydraulics) and had them installed by North Coast Exotics in Cleveland, Ohio. So good so far.
Thanks again,
oliver08
I bought my lines from Cabriolet Hydraulics in Florida (Cabriolet Hydraulics) and had them installed by North Coast Exotics in Cleveland, Ohio. So good so far.
Thanks again,
oliver08
#6
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Than you so much. But I chickened out. I had them installed by North Coast Exotics in Cleveland, Ohio Looks pretty good so far.
#7
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I bought my lines from Gaudin Jaguar, the new lines are rated at 2,800 or 3,800 psi (Do not remember which).
To swap:
Remove door sill, kick panel, drivers seat, center console, rear seat bottom header and drivers side A piller covers.
Pull back carpet from the rear drivers side rear and pull forward.
Take a xcto or utility knife and cut all zip ties ( 2 by the rear speaker, 4-5 on the floor pan , 3 in trunk and for going up the dash and A pillar).
To make sure you connect the lines correctly, mark the line w/an 'F', it goes on the bottom port of pump and mark both lines at the latch a different color and mark the corresponding port the same color. This way after you remove the lines you mark the new 'F' line the same color as the old. This will save you take the lines off and flipping them around.
You want to pull the lines from inside the cab, i.e. pull lines from trunk and pull down from under the dash. Tape new lines to the old, will save you a lot of time.
I flushed all my old fluid here.
You will need to remove fuse panel cover and have a long (8-10 in) flat head to help guide the hoses down through the header panel and dash.
Make sure and replace the zip ties!!
Have fun, took me 4-5 hrs to do, but I also did some work around the center console.
To swap:
Remove door sill, kick panel, drivers seat, center console, rear seat bottom header and drivers side A piller covers.
Pull back carpet from the rear drivers side rear and pull forward.
Take a xcto or utility knife and cut all zip ties ( 2 by the rear speaker, 4-5 on the floor pan , 3 in trunk and for going up the dash and A pillar).
To make sure you connect the lines correctly, mark the line w/an 'F', it goes on the bottom port of pump and mark both lines at the latch a different color and mark the corresponding port the same color. This way after you remove the lines you mark the new 'F' line the same color as the old. This will save you take the lines off and flipping them around.
You want to pull the lines from inside the cab, i.e. pull lines from trunk and pull down from under the dash. Tape new lines to the old, will save you a lot of time.
I flushed all my old fluid here.
You will need to remove fuse panel cover and have a long (8-10 in) flat head to help guide the hoses down through the header panel and dash.
Make sure and replace the zip ties!!
Have fun, took me 4-5 hrs to do, but I also did some work around the center console.
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