Mornin', all. The other day on our '03 XK8 with 22k miles, I discovered a bit of fluid on the shelf below the pump, and the lines had flaked off most of their coating. Figured it's time to do the task, so started researching. Lots of info out there, and thanks to all here who've contributed.

I began at the top of the windshield and no leaks there, but lines are similarly toast; thankfully, no green shower yet. Removed the latch and set it aside. Same under the rear seat and the passenger side/speaker panel; removal of that ram cylinder sure was fun! Plan for today is to remove the other ram and maybe begin tracing the route of the lines from the pump up to the latch. I've already pulled the fuse box door and can see the lines (shot as well), but pulling that kick panel hasn't happened yet; appears I have to remove the door sill plate for that, and first have to pull the decorative plate off to get to the screws for that. Not sure where the lines go from there. One source mentioned the route along the side of the center console, but I don't see any lines coming out the back of that. Looks like they go up over the driveline tunnel and emerge at the passenger side C-pillar. Assume the center console has to come out...

OK, here's the question: I contacted Top Hydraulics and spoke to Klaus (nice guy), who gave me pricing on several options. I know I'm going to buy new lines and rebuilt latch and cylinders, but thinking also about replacing the pump while I'm at it. I asked Klaus about it, and he recommended replacing both the lines and cylinders/latch. I asked about the pump, and he said that's my choice, as it seems to be an unknown variable about its life. He told me that failure of the pumps is random; could happen at any time, or could yet last a while longer. The car has been babied from its beginning - always garage kept, and the top has not been raised/lowered all that much at all. But those lines! There are flakes and bits of sheathing all over the place! So, the question for you is: Would you spend the extra $400 for the pump and be done with it? This is not a daily driver; only take it out on nice days - at least a couple times a month, but I do keep a trickle charger on it, and start it up regularly. No plans on selling it as long as we can drive it (we're both 72). Replacing only the pump down the road wouldn't be near the job this is turning out to be, but not sure I want to risk that.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Mickey

 

Mackey, based on the number of pump problems I've heard of (close to zero), no i wouldn't replace it.

John

 

Thanks, John - I'm leaning that way.

 

+1 for me too. If it is working fine save the $400.

 

Agreed. The issue is with the lines, latch, and rams. Almost never the pump....

 

I'd leave the pump and enjoy the money you save. Not many have issues, aren't we lucky. LOL
Glad to know you have all the info on replacement of the hoses, just hope you have room in the garage for all the stuff that has to come out.

 

The degradation of the lines is down to time, not usage (same as tyres have a limited life). Save the money on the pump

 

Thanks, all. I have removed both ram/cylinders and the latch and will be sending them in as exchange for rebuilt ones this week. Lines are still in place; will wait until the new ones arrive so I can use the old ones to pull the new ones. Still scratching my head as to how to run the ones for the latch up the A-pillar. Doesn't look like fun at all!

 

Here are the instructions:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

As far as I know, all of the pump failures reported here over the years (there have been just a few) were due to failure of a single cheap and easily replaced semiconductor component inside the pump. See repair instructions in my signature line below.

Save your money.

 

Thanks - saw and read through that; was very helpful, but didn't seem to address how to get to the area next to the fuse panel. I haven't pulled the kick panel yet, as I need to remove the decorative trim off the sill plate to access the screws. Maybe that will illuminate things better...

 

Thanks, Dennis!

 

I recently purchased what seems like an immaculate 1999 XK8 with 33,000 miles. I have put into shop to have the water pump, fuel pump, timing chains and tensioners, serpentine belt, thermostat/housing, radiator hoses all replaced. ALL for preventative maintenance purposes. Now I guess I will wake at night thinking about the hydraulic hoses for the top.

1. Is there anyone out there that has NOT had an issue with their top/hoses after some larger number of miles and time on car?
2. Is there a tell-tale sign that the previous owner may have already replaced hydraulic hoses, etc? Do I look for a certain color or type hoses as original?

 

My wife's 2006 XK8 convertible (now approaching 125,000 miles) has not suffered the infamous hose failure / green shower. We have owned the car since early February 2012 when we acquired it at 36,000 miles. I feel we have been very lucky, but I also ensure that this car stays parked in the shade at all times. I believe keeping it out of the sun (and therefore at more tolerable surface temperatures) goes a long way towards preserving the prone-to-failure hoses, latch, and rams. Also, the top stays up 99% of the time, so the top lower / raise procedure is extremely rare here. That probably also helps as well....

 

Mine will be garaged when not in use. I feel like I will be the opposite. That is, keeping the top down most of the time. That is the main reason to have the convertible to me and not buying the coupe. I hope I have your luck at that mileage.

 

When my wife's 2006 XK8 was her daily driver (early February 2012 until late October 2018), she put the top down quite often during the spring, summer, and autumn months. After she moved into her 2015 Lexus RX350 SUV when we acquired it in late October 2018, she rarely drove her XK8 - it has been almost two years since she last drove it. She loves her XK8 as a work of art and wants to keep it. I disagree but have not yet convinced her that it would be prudent to sell a car she owns but never drives. Therefore, I have been the one having to take it out for some spirited exercise a couple of times per week for almost four years now. I despise hot and humid weather, my goal every summer is just to survive through it, I do not care for ragtops, so the top stays up and the A/C stays set on Arctic....

 

Agreed on the hot and humidity points. Being in Georgia, we have both in spades. I just love the look of the convertible. I also own a 1980 MGB and had started to NOT drive it much because of the heat. We tend to take it out after dinner and into the night when its cooler. The big difference is the Jaguar has air conditioning. I am not ashamed to turn it on with the top down if I have to.

 

Hi Mickey,
I have done he whole job of replacing the lines and seals thru Top Hydraulics.....the new lines you get back are thinner than the old ones, so getting them up thru the A pillar is just a matter of jiggiling a bit to get past the hose retainer in the column. I actually pulled my lower kick panel without removing the door sill plate, had to bend it a bit, and developed a small crack in the corner near the sill, but when it went back together, the crack disappears unless your looking for it. My lines turned inboard to the tunnel at that juncture. Of course, I have a 2000 xkr, so this may not help you as much. As far as the pump, I agree with the rest, use it till its history.

 

Thanks again to all. I have just sent the old cylinders off to Top Hydraulics and ordered new cylinders and lines. Pulled the sill and was able to pull the carpet back enough to expose the lines - all the sheathing is flaked off, everywhere. Can't believe that Jaguar/Ford would put such garbage in place; simply no excuse for scrimping on such a critical item.

At any rate, looking forward to finishing this job.

 

Wayne, the tell tale sign is the flacking of the outer coating off the inner hose. This causes a looseness in the crimping of the outer hose at the connections, best I can figure.
Look in the left corner of the trunk and that is where the hoses go forward to the cab and headliner. You will see little bits of black pieces laying all over the place. You will have to pull the cover back to get a really good look.