Torque Wrench?
The following users liked this post:
fotontom (08-21-2013)
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You will need a torque wrench that handles small values. You need the target values to be inside the bottom and top twenty percent of the rated values of the wrench because they are not accurate at the extreme ends of the range. They can be had in 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch drive. If it is longer than a foot, it is the wrong wrench.
Here are the values that I compiled and used for the job, note that the imperial versions are inch-pounds for some of the values, not foot pounds. They reason they are not a range like the metric is that I picked my target value in metric and converted it to a rounded imperial value. I only used a torque wrench for the tensioners and camshaft bearing caps. The rest was by feel.
Here are the values that I compiled and used for the job, note that the imperial versions are inch-pounds for some of the values, not foot pounds. They reason they are not a range like the metric is that I picked my target value in metric and converted it to a rounded imperial value. I only used a torque wrench for the tensioners and camshaft bearing caps. The rest was by feel.
secondary tensioner : 10-14 NM 90lb/in
camshaft bearing caps : 9-11 NM 90lb/in
sparkplugs : 25-29 NM WITH ANTISEIZE, new:1/2 turn max after finger tight, old 1/12 turn
(NGK: 24.39-29.27NM / 18.0-21.6 lb/ft) (DENSO: 20-30NM / 15-22 lb/ft)
target value = 20 lb/ft
220lb/in
180lb/in = 20NM
valve cover : 9-11 NM 90lb/in
Coil on Plug Bolts : 4-6 NM 35lb/in
Coil Cover Bolts : 4-6 NM 35lb/in
Note: The installation torque values shown above apply to new spark plugs with anti-seize
according to JTIS.
NM to foot pound-force 0.737562147282
NM to inch pound-force 8.85074576738
camshaft bearing caps : 9-11 NM 90lb/in
sparkplugs : 25-29 NM WITH ANTISEIZE, new:1/2 turn max after finger tight, old 1/12 turn
(NGK: 24.39-29.27NM / 18.0-21.6 lb/ft) (DENSO: 20-30NM / 15-22 lb/ft)
target value = 20 lb/ft
220lb/in
180lb/in = 20NM
valve cover : 9-11 NM 90lb/in
Coil on Plug Bolts : 4-6 NM 35lb/in
Coil Cover Bolts : 4-6 NM 35lb/in
Note: The installation torque values shown above apply to new spark plugs with anti-seize
according to JTIS.
NM to foot pound-force 0.737562147282
NM to inch pound-force 8.85074576738
Last edited by plums; 08-19-2013 at 04:07 PM.
The following users liked this post:
giandanielxk8 (08-21-2013)
#4
The following users liked this post:
giandanielxk8 (08-24-2013)
#6
The following users liked this post:
giandanielxk8 (08-24-2013)
Trending Topics
#8
#9
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No, I haven't done any gaskets since I've had the car (about 10k miles ago) and I doubt the previous owner changed them. Since I'm doing the tensioners, I know I have to do the valve cover gaskets, which I already bought. I haven't bought the spark plug gaskets and I've recently learned that pep boys has a 'gratis' rent of the torque wrench.
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I believe every DIY'er should have one in their arsenal.
Here is a forum sponsor that is pushing some nice digital torque wrenches:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/v...special-74346/
Here is a forum sponsor that is pushing some nice digital torque wrenches:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/v...special-74346/
#12
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ok, I got the spark plug seals at about $2.55 each, that's $20.40. They arrive on Monday. So I guess I'll buy the zip ties and the torque wrench on Monday and work on the tensioners on Wednesday. Is lubing them with some motor oil necessary?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 08-23-2013 at 12:17 PM.
#14
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Lubing what?
#16
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For the tensioners and the camshaft caps you definitely need a torque wrench unless you are very experienced with how the fasteners behave. It would be very foolish for a beginner to attempt the job without a torque wrench. The remaining fasteners are not as critical as long as you go easy.
Lubing the gaskets and seals is an old trick to achieving better sealing. It allows the material to creep against the adjoining surface during tightening. You don't need to do it, and the manual does not call for it. But, it works better. Just wipe some oil from the dipstick on your finger and rub down the surface.
Lubing the gaskets and seals is an old trick to achieving better sealing. It allows the material to creep against the adjoining surface during tightening. You don't need to do it, and the manual does not call for it. But, it works better. Just wipe some oil from the dipstick on your finger and rub down the surface.
#17
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
For the tensioners and the camshaft caps you definitely need a torque wrench unless you are very experienced with how the fasteners behave. It would be very foolish for a beginner to attempt the job without a torque wrench. The remaining fasteners are not as critical as long as you go easy.
Lubing the gaskets and seals is an old trick to achieving better sealing. It allows the material to creep against the adjoining surface during tightening. You don't need to do it, and the manual does not call for it. But, it works better. Just wipe some oil from the dipstick on your finger and rub down the surface.
Lubing the gaskets and seals is an old trick to achieving better sealing. It allows the material to creep against the adjoining surface during tightening. You don't need to do it, and the manual does not call for it. But, it works better. Just wipe some oil from the dipstick on your finger and rub down the surface.
Ok then
I'm getting the torque wrench. Now, as I read, you are saying that it is possible to do the job without them. Now I'm wondering, what is so special about these fasteners that they require a torque wrench?
#18
#19
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's the inability of most people to judge what is too loose, too tight or just right. The first two can usually be achieved by most people. The last one takes years of experience and heartbreak.
According to one member, there is actually a technical certification for judging torque without external aid and he holds such a certification.
The difficulty in this application is that steel fasteners are being inserted into aluminum threads. The feel is quite different when judging by hand. And the margin for error is much less than steel on steel.
If you strip out a thread, the cost of repair will make the cost of a torque wrench seem like bubble gum. Just take a look at the moaning and groaning from ham fisted experts coming on to JF after they decided to bull ahead on some job.
#20
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
+1
A torque wrench is one of those tools you will use for years, and for just about every job on a car. Were you planning to toque the spark plugs? Those have a spec, as do suspension bolts, brake caliper bolts and even the oil pan drain plug.
Anything that is expected to give long term, reliable performance or safety will have a torque requirement published in the service manual.
Money well spent, IMHO.
A torque wrench is one of those tools you will use for years, and for just about every job on a car. Were you planning to toque the spark plugs? Those have a spec, as do suspension bolts, brake caliper bolts and even the oil pan drain plug.
Anything that is expected to give long term, reliable performance or safety will have a torque requirement published in the service manual.
Money well spent, IMHO.