Transmission fault code P0706
#22
Hello Folks.
I'm hoping someone who was working on this rotory switch issue and gained some experience with placing it can help me out...
My basic question has to do with the procedure for placing the rotory switch back on the right hand side of the 5hp24 transmission... If I were to have the switch off and in my hand (having removed it with the car shifter in the neutral position) is it as simple as carefully sliding the rotory switch back over the gear sticking out of the side of the tranny, or are there some other considerations I need to be making. Don't want to get this wrong.
I'm hoping someone who was working on this rotory switch issue and gained some experience with placing it can help me out...
My basic question has to do with the procedure for placing the rotory switch back on the right hand side of the 5hp24 transmission... If I were to have the switch off and in my hand (having removed it with the car shifter in the neutral position) is it as simple as carefully sliding the rotory switch back over the gear sticking out of the side of the tranny, or are there some other considerations I need to be making. Don't want to get this wrong.
#24
Rotary switch orientation.
It's a long time ago now, but from memory I believe that the rotary switch will only fit onto the shaft one way.
Saying that, if you're re-orientated the shaft; moving it away from it's previous position, then you might have to think about it before fitting the rotary switch.
When I did mine, I literally took the old switch off and put the new switch straight back on.
Therefore the shaft pretty well lined up, as did the mounting holes with the gearbox.
I've just had a brainwave and looked at the rotary switch replacement and the gearchange cable adjustment 'How To' write-up I created about 2 million years ago ...... It seems like it anyway.
"Offer up the new switch and put the splined socket of the switch onto the splined shaft and rotate it, until it locates onto the splined shaft. There's a small flat indent so that it can only fit at one position. Tighten the 2 x bolts."
I hope the above helps.
Saying that, if you're re-orientated the shaft; moving it away from it's previous position, then you might have to think about it before fitting the rotary switch.
When I did mine, I literally took the old switch off and put the new switch straight back on.
Therefore the shaft pretty well lined up, as did the mounting holes with the gearbox.
I've just had a brainwave and looked at the rotary switch replacement and the gearchange cable adjustment 'How To' write-up I created about 2 million years ago ...... It seems like it anyway.
"Offer up the new switch and put the splined socket of the switch onto the splined shaft and rotate it, until it locates onto the splined shaft. There's a small flat indent so that it can only fit at one position. Tighten the 2 x bolts."
I hope the above helps.
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michaelh (11-01-2020)
#25
It's a long time ago now, but from memory I believe that the rotary switch will only fit onto the shaft one way.
Saying that, if you're re-orientated the shaft; moving it away from it's previous position, then you might have to think about it before fitting the rotary switch.
When I did mine, I literally took the old switch off and put the new switch straight back on.
Therefore the shaft pretty well lined up, as did the mounting holes with the gearbox.
I've just had a brainwave and looked at the rotary switch replacement and the gearchange cable adjustment 'How To' write-up I created about 2 million years ago ...... It seems like it anyway.
"Offer up the new switch and put the splined socket of the switch onto the splined shaft and rotate it, until it locates onto the splined shaft. There's a small flat indent so that it can only fit at one position. Tighten the 2 x bolts."
I hope the above helps.
Saying that, if you're re-orientated the shaft; moving it away from it's previous position, then you might have to think about it before fitting the rotary switch.
When I did mine, I literally took the old switch off and put the new switch straight back on.
Therefore the shaft pretty well lined up, as did the mounting holes with the gearbox.
I've just had a brainwave and looked at the rotary switch replacement and the gearchange cable adjustment 'How To' write-up I created about 2 million years ago ...... It seems like it anyway.
"Offer up the new switch and put the splined socket of the switch onto the splined shaft and rotate it, until it locates onto the splined shaft. There's a small flat indent so that it can only fit at one position. Tighten the 2 x bolts."
I hope the above helps.
Puts some of those haunting pre job worries to bed! I intend on swapping engines this week coming and this (rotory switch) was one of those things...
Since I have you - any thoughts on dealing with the orientation of the drive shaft, it's balancing and weight, when connecting it to a whole other transmission? I know it's said to "mark the shaft and the output" before disassembley, but what if that is impossible? Or is it
#26
Morning what ever your name is ..... I really do dislike all this 'let's make my name cryptic' business ...... My name is Tony, as you've already noticed.
Right, I assume you mean by the 'drive shaft' the prop shaft?
I always refer to the drive shafts as the shafts that are driven by the differential and drive the rear wheels; I guess it's a British - American terminology thing.
Anyway, I assume that you will be using the original prop shaft from your XK? If so, it's already balanced, otherwise you would have felt it by now.
If you're now planning to change the engine & gearbox, you have nothing to mark anyway, as it will be a different gearbox.
Not unless you're planning on using the prop shaft from the donor vehicle, in which case you can mark the prop shaft and gearbox outlet flanges before you disassemble them.
Once again, I hope the above helps.
Good luck with the engine & gearbox swap.
Right, I assume you mean by the 'drive shaft' the prop shaft?
I always refer to the drive shafts as the shafts that are driven by the differential and drive the rear wheels; I guess it's a British - American terminology thing.
Anyway, I assume that you will be using the original prop shaft from your XK? If so, it's already balanced, otherwise you would have felt it by now.
If you're now planning to change the engine & gearbox, you have nothing to mark anyway, as it will be a different gearbox.
Not unless you're planning on using the prop shaft from the donor vehicle, in which case you can mark the prop shaft and gearbox outlet flanges before you disassemble them.
Once again, I hope the above helps.
Good luck with the engine & gearbox swap.
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philwarner
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