Hi Guys - Or should I say the amazing community of fantastic helpful people who can be saviours at times!

It seems like I may have the "squawk" gear change noise at 3rd - 4th, it might even be 4th - 5th, I can't tell which.
I only just discovered what this issue might be a couple of days ago as I'd never heard of it...one doesn't think to search the word "squawk" I guess!
I've owned my car 4 years now.
I'm considering attempting to record the sound of the squawk gear change as it's quite a weird noise - a kind of sliding slipping sound to end in almost a thud - I have ignored it and left it alone for now...call me crazy but all I could see was a bottomless pit where my last dollar was heading! yeah cry me a river lol.
Time goes by (a couple of years in fact!) I noticed a pattern to this shift condition, it only happens once in a while at a certain shift point, load and speed.
Initially, it was suggested I check my flex-joint or 'guibo' I believe it's called. I also thought maybe a U joint or something else under torque was making this weird noise. I haven't really worried about it possibly as much as I should have because it's a condition that I can drive with and avoid if I drive carefully - if I floor it I don't think it happens either!
But seriously, it's only at around 50% throttle and under a certain load at around 45mph or 70-80kph here in New Zealand.

Issue 2 is as a Harsh Gear Shift being a downshift bang from 2nd to 1st whilst slowing and still rolling preparing to accelerate again at say a roundabout where you don't need to come to a complete standstill. The car obviously couldn't make its mind up which gear to select - I was under the impression however that 1st gear only engages from a complete standstill...or should only engage from a complete standstill.
Pretty sure it's not a jump from 3 to 2 at such a slow speed - this maybe happens as slow as 5kph (3mph)?

I have found a few TSB's relating to both issues (I'm unsure if my 2nd gear downshift to 1st is considered a 'Harsh Gear Shift' but I would certainly consider it to be) I am unsure where the TSB's ended for these two problems.
The last TSB I could find was TSB JTB00071v2 dated 04 February 2009. That superseded TSB JTB00071/2007 dated 29 November - I can't find an actual copy of 00071 but these all generally require a Transmission Adaption Drive Cycle using IDS (this solution is only for Harsh Gear shifts).
The latest TSB I could find on the Squawk Issue was TSB JTB00070 dated 5 December 2007. This repair entailed the addition of additive C2C 37157 TRANSMISSION FLUID ADDITIVE to the Transmission and required the removal of 1 litre of trans fluid first to accommodate the additive.
I also found a 'Technical Bulletin" (no use of the word 'service' I see - that'll help us in our google searches won't it!) this is JTB00145 and is dated 3 Feb 2009 (a day earlier than JTB00071v2 incidentally) and that only relates to 'ZF Transmission Adaptions Drive Cycle - IDS Procedure' and again for harsh shifts only.

My shifts are fine apart from the squawk and downshift from 2nd - 1st as above.
I can't find anything later than the TSB's attached but I'm guessing the procedure to fix both issues will be the same now as back in 2009 - Squawk requires additive & Harsh Gear Shift requires a Trans Adaptive Drive Cycle using IDS.

Are there any newer TSB's or 'TB's' that relate to my issues and more importantly is the repair procedure the same for both still?

I'll attach the TSB's I found for reference.
Thanks in advance.

 

First things first. Do an ATF drain-and-fill with fresh Mercon SP. That may be all you need to do in order to resolve your ZF issues....

 

Hi,
Same MY car, same issue as Trevor having the squawk noise at partial load...
Thanks

 

Thanks Jon will do. Need to gather up the required items first, I don't think that fluid is local to me so need to hunt around and acquire some, might as well do a filter/pan change too I guess as I don't think it would have been done (155k kilometres).

 

I might be up the creek without a paddle somewhat - I can't find Merson SP anywhere for sale in my country! Well, so far anyway. I will investigate more come Monday.

eBay have 8 quarts for $132 + $96 shipping to New Zealand. OR another listing has 5 quarts for $75 + $66 shipping!
Amazon has 12 quarts for $166 + $135 shipping...

Include a pan/filter for the best price locally of $167 that comes from Australia.
Add Labour Costs of whatever that might be say 3 hours perhaps? (I won't do this job myself)
Turning into an extremely expensive exercise with over $200 in shipping alone!

I will contact local Ford dealers' here on Monday and see if they can source some for Mercon SP for me.

On a side note, I also see mentionings that Mercon LV should now be used instead of SP...this is surely wrong and would stuff my trans wouldn't it?

 

Not even at a ford dealer? That is where i get it

 

Check out this thread for info

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fluid-233141/

I too couldn’t find the specified ATF for my ZF5HP24 gearbox but local knowledge helped. I talked to a few local garages who told me what ATF they had used for my gearbox. They will have done a few cars so should know what and where to get something that works. The thread has links to lots of alternatives.

Auto gearboxes are great but don’t you sometimes wish for the simpler manual gearbox rather than deal with a “slush box” aka the torque converter.

 

Thanks David, I'm going to contact a Ford dealer shortly to track down Mercon SP / or indeed some other suitable well-priced replacement fluid that is suitable for my 6-speed trans - I know Mercon SP is the cheapest if I can source it locally so will concentrate on this for now.
Thanks again

 

Hi Pantera
I haven't actually contacted a Ford dealer yet but will do shortly - I have some other options that I will pursue also - like a mechanic friend who might be able to track the product down for me. He is a V8 specialist and been in the business 40 or so years so may have some contacts I hope.

 

Trevor

I think Mercon SP was suggested as that is probably the cheapest and readily available in the USA

It may be cheaper and easier for you in NZ to source the OEM ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid. I did a quick google and a couple of suppliers in NZ came up. Alltranz in Auckland being one. Though I couldn't find an actual price quoted so may be too expensive ?!!

Edit: Just found a thread on BMW forum (same transmission) saying that ZF fluid in NZ is stupidly expensive around NZ$80 a litre - so maybe not.

 

Thanks Stumpy, yes I found a product called Giant ATF Multisyn (product fact sheet attached) that says it meets or exceeds both Mercon SP and Lifeguard 6, I'll try to get in touch with a supplier of this today for a price - I have a sneaky suspicion that this stuff might be in that crazy price bracket also being $80 per litre but we'll see.
I'm sure I'll eventually get hold of some 'fair priced' suitable fluid. See this attachment for now.
Your comment and all others are really appreciated.

 

I believe I've hit the jackpot - Mercon SP at Rockauto (USA) for $10.89 NZD ea - I only need 5 quarts correct?
5 quarts shipped only $33 NZD via FedEx - Total cost in NZD only $101.08 incl tax WOW!!! - I think I better find my Pan/Filter on their site too actually and add it in....I'm now bloody excited as this seems to be the best solution cost-wise by a country mile!!!!
I have heard some people replacing the connector plug thing (excuse my ignorance for correct terminology) should I maybe do that too?

Incidentally, Lifeguard Fluid 6 is $23nzd per litre there and Mercon SP is not listed - I found the Mercon via google using "XT-6-QSP nz" as my search term and got the Hit at Rockauto that way.
Link to Rockauto Trans fluid findings under typical 'Jag 2004 /XKR / Transmission Fluid' https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...on+fluid,11387

Regarding Filters: Please can someone advise which one I should choose from this screengrab image from Rockauto?
I won't complete my shopping cart till you guys help me select a Pan/Filter below.

I'm almost home...

 

Sorry can't help with the filter, here in the UK is easy and cheap (sorry) to get a complete genuine ZF oem kit.

Make sure and replace the 21 T25 screws (if fitted) for T40 ones and yes also replace the case sleeve with the revised one at the same time.

This thread, started by the excellent Reverend Sam, may help you with information: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...deo-faq-50868/

 

I was wondering out of the filters in the list above that I've shown which one might the members select as a preference perhaps.
Oh also, I've watched Sam's video several times, and several of his others, they're great I must say - old but great still.
I'm not going to actually do this job myself, I don't have an internal space to work in and not keen on my driveway plus it's cold coming into winter here - I have a really bad back and I live on morphine and fentanyl patches + other meds so not keen to throw myself underneath her.
I did replace my upper shock mounts recently but paid for that for several days afterwards - pain relief meds did bugger all.

 

If you opt to drop the pan, have at least 7 quarts of ATF on hand. Each car varies but with a pan drop, 6.5 to 7.5 quarts is the general range. And be sure to replace the sleeve for cheap and easy leak insurance....

If you do not drop the pan, 5 quarts of ATF will usually be enough....

 

I found this video helpful

 

Thanks!
This repair shows exactly what needs to be done on my car, removal of the valve body to replace the mechatronics sleeves as I get that 2nd to 1st gear downshift bang exactly as he mentions - I also found yesterday another prior video mentioning that exact symptom by the same guy, I couldn't find the video you attached - feel really silly now as the video you included was on screen at the end of the video I was already watching! - I closed it out before that little window box link appeared.
I now believe just a fluid and filter change won't be enough for my car. I notice one of the filter/pan kits available at Rockauto also appears to include the required sleeves for my job and even the Torx bolts so that should be the kit I buy - it's not an actual ZF Kit like he suggests in the video / nor do I plan to use the Lifeguard 6 fluid but I have to be price conscious also and weigh up my odds that this kit will be ok for my job. Many people here say Mercon SP will do and that's good enough for me.


I contacted my 'local' (well the only one in my region) Jag dealer a few days ago to ask about them doing some work on my trans - just the filter and fluid change, but I haven't heard back from them. Not sure they are keen or just provide bad customer service.
After seeing this guys videos I'm considering maybe a BMW experienced mechanic who's worked on these trans might be an idea.

His Troubleshooting video here mentions my exact problem of the 2nd to 1st gear bang at 45 secs into the video - not the squawk problem mind you but I assume this repair (replacing the sleeves) may also fix that issue?

 

FYI, I have used both Mercon SP and Lifeguard 6 with the only noticeable difference being the dent in my bank account.
The original bolts were T-25. Hopefully the kit has the T-40s.
I usually put a T-25 on an impact driver(not an impact wrench) and give each one a few hits with a hammer to loosen them. They are prone to rounding out and giving you more problems. That is why i do it. The T-40s seem a little less susceptible to that problem.
I just did a gearbox in a 2003 and it now seem to shift a lot more smoothly.
The toughest part is filling the box with fluid and not burning yourself on the bloody exhaust pipe when replacing the fill plug

 

When you say the sleeve do you mean the dual square one in the videos? The valve body needs to be removed to do that doesn't it? - just need to confirm please that I'm thinking of the right items. Pictures please would be great.
Thanks.

 

The tube seals are the 4 small round ones. The sleeve seal is the large round one. The square seal is the bridge seal. the bridge seal and the tube seals require removel of the mechatronics unti aka valve body







































































The sleeve seal is for the wiring to the solenoids. it can be changed without removing the mechatronics unit. aka valve body.
The 4 tube seals and the rectangular bridge seal require removing the mechatronics unit