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The tube seals are the 4 small round ones. The sleeve seal is the large round one. The square seal is the bridge seal. the bridge seal and the tube seals require removel of the mechatronics unti aka valve body
The sleeve seal is for the wiring to the solenoids. it can be changed without removing the mechatronics unit. aka valve body.
The 4 tube seals and the rectangular bridge seal require removing the mechatronics unit
Thanks - I thought so but wanted to double check first.
Plenty of good comments above, but I would add that 1) Mercon SP is the only Ford spec rated for that ZF box; LV will not substitute. There is no way Ford would use something harmful to the ZF box, and I have had no problem over several years from having used SP. And yes, the squawk went away immediately! There is no need for an additive, even if you can find it.
Wherever you are, if there are Ford SUV's about of similar vintage, several used that same box (Hence Mercon SP!). Although Jag / BMW and Co., not to mention ZF, would like to charge $50 + per litre in the US for Lifeguard 6, the resulting rebellion led to finding out about Mercon SP, and a token price reduction. I paid $7 a quart in the US for Mercon SP. 2) Expect the small Torx bolts - one or more - to give you grief. They are steel in aluminium. Some heat, releasing fluid, much patience on any that look uncooperative, a number of careful tangential near horizontal punch stroke near the perimeter, and then the T25 bit. An air impact driver set on minimum to begin with, if required. I sheared off one T25 Torx bit flush in the socket, and was lucky to get it out with a magnet.
3) I replaced the seal on the wiring connector socket and the rectangular tube seal that couples the fluid to the top of the Mechatronic valve assy. I probably should have changed out more, given what a pain this all is. 3) I had hell's own game getting the Mechatronic unit back up because of the interlock mechanism. I think this has something to do with the cable socket, but I can't remember now what caused the misery, but it took two of us to overcome. Good luck.
Plenty of good comments above, but I would add that 1) Mercon SP is the only Ford spec rated for that ZF box; LV will not substitute. There is no way Ford would use something harmful to the ZF box, and I have had no problem over several years from having used SP. And yes, the squawk went away immediately! There is no need for an additive, even if you can find it.
Wherever you are, if there are Ford SUV's about of similar vintage, several used that same box (Hence Mercon SP!). Although Jag / BMW and Co., not to mention ZF, would like to charge $50 + per litre in the US for Lifeguard 6, the resulting rebellion led to finding out about Mercon SP, and a token price reduction. I paid $7 a quart in the US for Mercon SP. 2) Expect the small Torx bolts - one or more - to give you grief. They are steel in aluminium. Some heat, releasing fluid, much patience on any that look uncooperative, a number of careful tangential near horizontal punch stroke near the perimeter, and then the T25 bit. An air impact driver set on minimum to begin with, if required. I sheared off one T25 Torx bit flush in the socket, and was lucky to get it out with a magnet.
3) I replaced the seal on the wiring connector socket and the rectangular tube seal that couples the fluid to the top of the Mechatronic valve assy. I probably should have changed out more, given what a pain this all is. 3) I had hell's own game getting the Mechatronic unit back up because of the interlock mechanism. I think this has something to do with the cable socket, but I can't remember now what caused the misery, but it took two of us to overcome. Good luck.
Thank you for the additional input - I'm learning so much more prior to doing this job which is great.
I found an interesting video here
this guy from South Africa shows at 8:29 into the video and before dropping the Mechatronic unit he ties a cable tie (or maybe 2 of them to the shifter lever linkage) this links to the lever on the valve body, that seems to help line this up when it comes to reassembly. I'm not sure if mine is like the one he's working on as that's a BMW version, I don't think so as he mentioned 'electronic brake' I think like some cars have, but I know getting that lever in the correct position is important and something most of the videos point out anyway.
The interlock you mention - is that the one that locks the tube sleeve for the electrical connector? I notice he says pressure has to be applied inwards to the sleeve whilst you push the locking latch thing back up at the same time to engage it correctly.
It's probably going to be several months before I do my job - I need to buy all the bits and pieces that I will need to import from the US - the filter kit from Rockauto that comes with the sleeves and torque screws - not sure if they are T40 or not - if they are wrong I will just buy some more elsewhere I guess. Thanks again.
Yes, that sounds like the interlock that caused my problem. I may have overlooked something obvious about this item, but with two of us studying how the parts moved - or didn't move - it took a long time before things could be made to cooperate. This issue is worth exploring and understanding before diving into the job.
Also, although I have read of people who claim to have done all this work whilst lying under the car in their driveway, there is no doubt at all, given the awkwardness of access to the filler plug and the electrical connector, never mind the fluid that continues to drip from all over where the Mechatronic unit came from, that this is a job best done on a lift, or over a pit.
Yeah, I did this on the 6hp not long ago in the street in front of the crib. It's not a bad job at all. This might sound strange, but while you're in there, for 55bucks the separator plate (it's old) can also be changed out with very little extra work and in the comfort of your living room, lol...
I strongly recommend getting an inch pound torque wrench. I got one on Amazon for less than 30 bucks.
To reset the shift arms with the slide on the mechatronic. It's easy. Start 2 bolts in the center section of the valve body. It's nice because from here you can rock it back and forth, carefully while NOT holding the weight of the valve body... Start lining things up with the shifter. Double check on your soft parts - the bridge seal and the 4 tubes - then push it all the way up, shifter in line, and tighten the 2 center bolts. Now your good and nothing should move. Check alignment and start adding a few more bolts. ZF and them damn Germans... So well engineered and designed it nearly outs itself together.
If you are doing this without a lift,,, to save yourself some trouble - ya might try this. I got this from the folks mentioned above. We tend to put ourselves to to much pain.... When done under the car,,, get the car in a level surface,,, pump 7 quarts of fluid into the TOP trans fluid coolant line at the rad, and then, reattach.... While you have the car up for the valve body work loosen the fill port and just leave it in 5, 10 threads WITH allen socket stuck into the (deep) hex hole...
After you lower the car and are done with the job, pan is up and on, you really want to lay down and reach up to really get familiar with where the fill hole is and the best way to position yourself for what's next. Practice it.
Car on level ground,,, start it and see where you are. Open fill hole and either fluid will run out or it will need more... Pump in fluid or let it pour out to trickle, let things come to temp, shift through gears - all with car on the ground... As soon as you have it and are satisfied with the level,,, jack the RH side of the car up at the front jack point some and pop a jack stand under there. Then, reach up and get that plug started JUST A FEW HAND TURNS IS ALL YA NEED, car running, towel over exhaust pipe so no burns. Jacking it up a tad will stop the trickle while you place plug. Easy... I was surprised by how easy.
Then, shut off the car and jack it up and tighten fill hole to speck...
Good info; sadly a bit late for me: There is no doubt that age plays a role here unless, of course, one has spent a lifetime doing this sort of thing. At age 75 at the time, I was crocked up for two days afterwards. The job took a total of 8 hours (including driving with my friend to two stores in town to get another Torx bit / socket).
I like the idea of getting most of the filling done from the oil cooler, and thereby limiting the wrist burn count.
Ditto the low range torque wrench (which I happened to have).
Ditto: Allen socket filler plug. I had to do all manner of Mickey Mouse gyrations to come up with an Allen + socket + wrench to fit between the body sheet metal and the plug.
You don't mention the magic temperature of the oil, per the W/manual, and which I must admit I took as gospel, reading it using a thermocouple probe. One extra burn.
Good info; sadly a bit late for me: There is no doubt that age plays a role here unless, of course, one has spent a lifetime doing this sort of thing. At age 75 at the time, I was crocked up for two days afterwards. The job took a total of 8 hours (including driving with my friend to two stores in town to get another Torx bit / socket).
I like the idea of getting most of the filling done from the oil cooler, and thereby limiting the wrist burn count.
Ditto the low range torque wrench (which I happened to have).
Ditto: Allen socket filler plug. I had to do all manner of Mickey Mouse gyrations to come up with an Allen + socket + wrench to fit between the body sheet metal and the plug.
You don't mention the magic temperature of the oil, per the W/manual, and which I must admit I took as gospel, reading it using a thermocouple probe. One extra burn.
Yeah, for me, with the temp, it's basically body temperature. The first time I, like you, was kinda crazy with it, but now - having a IR thermometer, I have tested the accuracy of the back of my hand and - the human body is AMAZING... I can get it right every (4) time...
SPeaking of the body, lol... Yes, I often have to recoup for DAYS depending on what it is. And I'm 50! Super shout out to YOU for monkeying around at 75!
Plugging something similar to this into a 8mm allen socket, then fitting the plug onto the end of that made life really easy for reaching under while the RH side of the car is jacked up a bit when hand tightening the plug. Made the plug hole easy to find and THEN, if you can actually get a wrench on it later to tighten it to spec,,, good all around.
05-24-2021, 10:15 PM
thanks!
Thanks again.
