XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

Triple Crown Today with the 97!

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  #101  
Old 12-07-2010, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by brgjag
Man I sware the shop that did the TB swapping on my car said the TC was part of the TB. Seems it is part of the ABS unit.
The TB may have an effect on the traction control or vice versa but I cannot answer your question with certainty.
 
  #102  
Old 12-07-2010, 04:01 PM
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A good read,

TRACTION CONTROL
Vehicles with the Traction Control system use the engine management system to control the throttle, fuel and ignition systems to reduce the engine torque, but with individual brake intervention for enhanced control of wheel spin.

As a tire loses adhesion leading to a potential wheel spin situation, the brake line pressure to that wheel is increased by closing the cut-off solenoid valve and starting the motor and hydraulic pump. This draws brake fluid volume from reservoir via the non-actuated master cylinder, cut-off valve and additional pump inlet valve, then pumps it via the solenoid inlet valve to the brake caliper. An amber warning lamp, located at the right hand side of the instrument cluster, flashes at 2Hz during Traction Control operation.

STABILITY CONTROL
Vehicles with the Stability Control system use the engine management system to control the throttle, fuel and ignition systems to reduce engine torque in order to counteract wheel spin.

The Stability Control switch is mounted in the center console and has an LED illuminated Anti-Skid Control Off (ASC OFF) . It does not effect the gear shifting except that a message from the BCM that the traction is active, will switch the Traction Control Module (TCM) to select the appropriate traction program.

Following the traction active signal, the TCM will inhibit downshifts/torque convertor lockup and select a single shift pattern tailored to meet the traction system requirements for upshifts. If during acceleration there is a tendency for one of the wheels to spin due to excessive engine torque or loss of adhesion of a tire, it is detected by the wheel speed sensor.

The information is relayed to the Brake Control Module (BCM) which then informs the engine management system to reduce the torque output of the engine. This is performed in three ways; the throttle is moved towards the closed position, the fuel supply is cut-off to the cylinders and the ignition is retarded.

Because of mechanical delays in moving the throttle, the throttle response is slower to work than the fuel cut-off and retarding the ignition. In the event of a tendency for wheel spin, the BCM uses information from the CAN bus to calculate the torque which the engine should produce to prevent wheel spin. Torque reductions are then requested from the ECM via the CAN bus. The throttle is positioned to provide the target torque calculated to prevent wheel spin.

During the transient phase of torque reduction, the ignition will be retarded and the fuel cut-off to the cylinders to reduce the torque to the target value. Once the throttle has reached its new position, both the fuel cut-off and ignition retard will be restored to their previous settings.
 
  #103  
Old 12-08-2010, 02:05 PM
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Is the Triple Crown (title of thread) over????? Threw in rebuilt computer today and did the hard reset (if that even works?) to clear all codes. Fired it up. So far so good I am thinking, close the hood and trunk so those warning lights are not on. Look at speedo read out, NOTHING! Car is idling fine. To this point the car has done all this before, ran fine, then started puking. Well nothing so far. So I take it for a drive, nothing, runs fine just around the hood for about 5 min or so. So at this point it has run for about 15 min, no issues, no warnings. Again it has done this before then went haywire.
Sooo at this point it seems ok. Will run it more, longer tonight.
One side note. This time around the cruise control button on the shifter plate was starting to flicker its red light when it was pushed down. ODD. It got worse to a point that it stayed on no matter what you do. TODAY???????? Working normally again. Could the rebld of computer fixed something related to that???
More later.......
 
  #104  
Old 12-08-2010, 06:55 PM
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Well have about 90 min of drive time in the car. Driven in every way you can think, on every type of road surface and so far SO GOOD!!!
 
  #105  
Old 12-08-2010, 07:01 PM
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I did top off the wiper fluid holder now I have a LOW FLUID WARNING. Ha ha ha.
 
  #106  
Old 12-08-2010, 08:41 PM
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About time! Kudos to you!!!
 
  #107  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:42 AM
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Your perseverance and patience paid off, good job. After another few weeks, the confidence in your car will be returned and you can move on to the smaller stuff.
 
  #108  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:51 AM
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Well I will drive it some more around my home. I live in an area that is a small town surrounded by HWY's so I can do all kinds of driving and if it shuts down again I can still get home easily.
If this is the fix, there are not really any other little stuff to do other then get to the cabin air filter (take it out) and change the oil for the winter.
If I remove the cabin air filter and leave it out will that hurt anything? Let water in, cold air????
 
  #109  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:52 AM
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OH, and I do need to the get the covers back on the nozzles on the headlight cleaners.
 
  #110  
Old 12-10-2010, 09:05 AM
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Most of our cars do not have the cabin filter. It just filters the air being moved thru the system, nothing more. There is a few guys on there that bought filters, but no housing...and they were stuck with the filter...up in the attic or garage storage. You should find that old thread and PM the owner for a good price!
 
  #111  
Old 12-10-2010, 11:45 AM
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I was not looking to replace it, remove it there. Just trying to see if anyone else has got their vin ran that told them what the car came with, and it said it had this filter, and it DIDN'T have it when they looked.
 
  #112  
Old 12-10-2010, 12:30 PM
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gotcha. If you pull your wipers off, remove a few screws on that cover, you can give a quick peek at where it is supposed to be w/o removing anything else. That's what I did.
 
  #113  
Old 12-11-2010, 05:17 PM
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Well I am calling the Computer rebld a success. The car has been running fine now for days.
 
  #114  
Old 12-11-2010, 05:30 PM
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You did it! Kudos to you!
 
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  #115  
Old 12-11-2010, 07:41 PM
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If I had left it to the shop we would still be chasing TB's. Ha ha ha.
I just firgured that with all the info here about the computer being an issue on the early models I would throw the dart in that direction. Worst thing is they say it is ok or have a reblt one and go one from there.
Its been nice to drive again but I have to admit that the Dodge Magnum (bought when Jag went down) with the 5.7 motor does KICK THE JAGS azz, but two diff types cars for two diff ways you want to cruz on any given day.
Thansk to everyone that gave their .02 along the road in this thread.
I can say that I am not as afraid of this car as I was before this. I know things can be fixed if you keep digging. This car is not for the faint of heart as far as repairs go I would say. So to all you newbie owners hitting this site, love'em when they are up, bare with when they are down.
 
  #116  
Old 01-30-2011, 06:17 PM
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Reporting in to say the Computer is still working fine. Car is running great.
 
  #117  
Old 01-31-2011, 09:16 PM
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...and may it stay that way! I still think you pursued the correct pathway of diagnosis, though the timeline was rather long.
 
  #118  
Old 02-01-2011, 07:26 PM
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Yes it was. But there were so many diff error messages coming, where the hell was one to start? I did not want to throw cash at every issue and it not be it. Knowing these 97's had Computer issues I thought what the hell, lets hit that first and how about that, that was the fix. I'd say if you are reading this and you have qa 97 or early 98 and you are getting a **** load of error messages, the car not running right, go ahead and rebuild the computer. What the dudes explained to me about all the things that go bad on it and can make so many components on the car appear bad you are best off repairing the Computer first.
 
  #119  
Old 02-02-2011, 01:28 PM
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Since I mentioned it could be the computer in early October, it would have saved some time to look at the ECU early. I know there were a lot of comments and it's hard to decide what to do. I just thought that multiple TB's bad in a row meant that the problem may be elsewhere.
 
  #120  
Old 02-03-2011, 08:16 AM
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Default ECU Forensics

If anyone has one of the failed ECU's that has behaved as described in this thread, I would like to borrow it for some forensic analysis. This would obviously have to be one that has been changed out. I am referring to intermittent, multiple code messages. I have some ideas as to what is going on, and the possibility of repair, but can't say without some analysis.

Does anyone know what happens to the ones that dealers change out. Maybe they are being reconditioned? My fear is that they go to the dumpster.
 
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