Upper Ball Joint Separator tips
#1
Upper Ball Joint Separator tips
Has anyone used a tool like this to sperate the upper front Ball joints? I did try it and I was at the point of thinking about a breaker bar on it but didnt want to damage the ball joints or break the tool. I am waiting to have another go at in when the weather gets cooler and have replacement ball joints. May as well do it all. My reason is that I am replaceing the worn out rubber bushing with poly.
Last edited by GGG; 08-02-2022 at 03:08 AM.
#2
The following 3 users liked this post by motorcarman:
#3
#4
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,200
Received 2,434 Likes
on
1,572 Posts
Mine came loose OK following motorcarman' process. Take care not to damage the rubber boot:- my splitter has the fork shaped to fit around it.
Note you don't strictly need to separate the control arm just to replace the upper bushings.
edit: sorry - I see you're replacing the BJs
Note you don't strictly need to separate the control arm just to replace the upper bushings.
edit: sorry - I see you're replacing the BJs
Last edited by michaelh; 08-01-2022 at 11:18 AM.
The following users liked this post:
David Dougherty (08-01-2022)
#5
The following users liked this post:
David Dougherty (08-01-2022)
#7
What did you use?
When I did the upper shock mounts I dound that my bushing are really tight in the A arm. It seems they just fall out for some but mine are really in there. If yours were tight how were you able to remove them without taking the A arm out?
Trending Topics
#9
This thread reminds me of a battle with that ball joint on 1 side. As pictured & discussed in this link: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ghlight=Pickle
I learned that all pickle forks are not created equal. Photos in link. In a nutshell I tried the device you pictured first, no joy, it broke. I then spent what felt like hours hammering with an autozone rented pickle fork - nothing. In frustration I visited my mechanic and complained. He just smiled and handed me a Snap-On brand pickle fork. World of difference it worked fast!
I have an air hammer now, but the attached post may help you.
John
I learned that all pickle forks are not created equal. Photos in link. In a nutshell I tried the device you pictured first, no joy, it broke. I then spent what felt like hours hammering with an autozone rented pickle fork - nothing. In frustration I visited my mechanic and complained. He just smiled and handed me a Snap-On brand pickle fork. World of difference it worked fast!
I have an air hammer now, but the attached post may help you.
John
#10
The ball joint separator sold at Harbor Freight (#99849) and other parts stores worked fine for me when replacing the upper arm bushings. It is a quality forged, "made in Taiwan" tool with the proper thin fingers that fit easily under the ball joint without damage, and it poses much less of a threat to the joint seal than a fork. I have used it twice to replace the arm bushings, both times without undue strain. I should qualify this by saying my car is California rust-free and easier to work on than many that live through winters. Be sure to wear eyewear and gloves, etc., if you go this route, as the joint "explodes" out of the socket when it comes loose, spreading a lot of debris.
#11
Good to hear
The ball joint separator sold at Harbor Freight (#99849) and other parts stores worked fine for me when replacing the upper arm bushings. It is a quality forged, "made in Taiwan" tool with the proper thin fingers that fit easily under the ball joint without damage, and it poses much less of a threat to the joint seal than a fork. I have used it twice to replace the arm bushings, both times without undue strain. I should qualify this by saying my car is California rust-free and easier to work on than many that live through winters. Be sure to wear eyewear and gloves, etc., if you go this route, as the joint "explodes" out of the socket when it comes loose, spreading a lot of debris.
#12
#13
When you have the long bolt out you can swing the top arm about and get it to a convenient place to work on it . Use a length of threaded rod and some washers / sockets to push out the bushes if they dont fall out.
Stick the washers onto the bushes with contact adhesive or you will have a battle on your hands to align it all up .
Easy job 24mm socket+spanner + impact gun + knuckle.
Stick the washers onto the bushes with contact adhesive or you will have a battle on your hands to align it all up .
Easy job 24mm socket+spanner + impact gun + knuckle.
The following 2 users liked this post by Pistnbroke:
David Dougherty (11-16-2022),
Stamford (11-17-2022)
#14
Ball Joints are toast
When you have the long bolt out you can swing the top arm about and get it to a convenient place to work on it . Use a length of threaded rod and some washers / sockets to push out the bushes if they dont fall out.
Stick the washers onto the bushes with contact adhesive or you will have a battle on your hands to align it all up .
Easy job 24mm socket+spanner + impact gun + knuckle.
Stick the washers onto the bushes with contact adhesive or you will have a battle on your hands to align it all up .
Easy job 24mm socket+spanner + impact gun + knuckle.
#15
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,200
Received 2,434 Likes
on
1,572 Posts
You can replace the upper arm BJ without too much drama using a normal press or large C-clamp & suitable adaptors.
The lower one is a bear due to the taper on the arm. See this thread from szhilian39, which also links to a couple of others:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post2481415
The lower one is a bear due to the taper on the arm. See this thread from szhilian39, which also links to a couple of others:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post2481415
#16
I replaced the front shock mounts, shocks, ball joints, and bushings. I did most of the work myself but I took the control arms and strut assemblies to a shop to get the ball joints replaced, and shock and shock mounts replaced. Those seemed like a little more than I wanted to wrestle with. I wasn't sure that I had the proper tools and it looked like I could get hurt if something let loose so I farmed this out to someone with better tools and who was comfortable using them.
The owner of the shop told me that he did the ball joints himself because of the small amount of control arm material around the ball joints.
I'm very glad that I handled this the way I did and I would do it again.
The owner of the shop told me that he did the ball joints himself because of the small amount of control arm material around the ball joints.
I'm very glad that I handled this the way I did and I would do it again.
#17
I have one of those from Harbor Freight. Kind of discovered this accidentally out of frustration and just walking away after heating, hammering and cursing didn't budge one. What I've done a few times now is just crank up the tension on a ball joint till I feel its about to reach the tool's limit and then I'd just leave it for a few hours or even overnight. Then I'd come out the next morning and if it hadn't popped loose on its own, then all it took is another eighth of a turn. Same method seems to work for removing tapered pulleys (tho with a different tool obviously). Don't really understand why that's worked but it has. If you got the time, worth a try anyway and probably less likely to hurt anything, least of all yourself, than trying to heat, hammer or curse it loose.
The following 3 users liked this post by pdupler:
#19
I think the length of time required is inversely proportional to the amount of time you actually have.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)