upper control arm bolt stuck
#21
Hello Marty, When I did my bushings on my 97 XK* two weeks ago, both fulcrum pins were frozen. To remoce the upper arm I took and propane torch and burned the rubber out of the rearward mount. If you resort to this, put a sheet metal shield between the subframe and chassis to prevent paint and heat damage. With the rubber gone, that allowed enough room to get a metal cut off wheel 1/16 wide in to slice the pin off and remove the arm. Sounds like you may need to cut both sides if your pin is frozen in the subframe. Good Luck.
#22
the jag part # for the fulcrum shaft is mja1455ad and thenut is jfx11605se
when i replaced mine on my 2000 xkr i had to replace thecomplete sub fram as the shaft had worn it oblong. The good part about removingthe sub frame is that it’s easy to rebuild the complete front end when it’ssiting on the ground in front of you.
#23
Upper Control Arm Bolt Stuck
I also had to replace the subframe due to elongated holes - used ones are plentiful. Not simple (more frozen bolts) but noticed a couple more things (popped engine mount bladder and broken bolt) that I was glad I found. Hang in there it is an incredible driving experience with the front end tight like new!
#24
Quite often I do not have the luxury of time and to be fair the customer doesn't want to pay for it either so I often resort to more drastic routes
You can get secondhand wishbones with a fulcrum pin for around £40, I always keep one laying around
You can get secondhand wishbones with a fulcrum pin for around £40, I always keep one laying around
Last edited by XKRacer; 08-02-2014 at 03:22 PM.
#25
I replaced my front shocks and upper mounts yesterday, and the Fulcrum shaft was a pure bitch to get out. It rotated nicely, without being seized to the bushings, shims or frame - but at about 7cm out it just wouldn't go any further, even after 45min of hammering.
I tried all kinds of techniques, using chisel on the head etc. What in the end worked for me - was to repeatedly hammer it back and forth. For every full cycle of out-in-out, I gained 0.5cm. This way, it came out in a few minutes.
As a side note, my old upper mounts looked rather ok - no deterioration of the foam at all. I replaced the CATS shocks with new standard Bilsteins. The ride is very much improved, the jiggely feeling in the steering is gone, and the car feels a lot tighter. I have a pair of new rear shocks lying around as well, but need to recover from the front job before attacking those.
I tried all kinds of techniques, using chisel on the head etc. What in the end worked for me - was to repeatedly hammer it back and forth. For every full cycle of out-in-out, I gained 0.5cm. This way, it came out in a few minutes.
As a side note, my old upper mounts looked rather ok - no deterioration of the foam at all. I replaced the CATS shocks with new standard Bilsteins. The ride is very much improved, the jiggely feeling in the steering is gone, and the car feels a lot tighter. I have a pair of new rear shocks lying around as well, but need to recover from the front job before attacking those.
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Jim D (08-02-2014)
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