If your trunk lid latch (1) has come lose you have a big problem.
If it is the cable (5) from lock barrel, you have to get your FOB to work somehow.
The voltage measured under the hood (bonnet) should be close to 12,5V engine off. If not, recharge overnight before trying programming FOB.
You may try to clean under the buttons in the FOB if you haven't done it already.

 

And we're back with today's program...

And now, tatata... Good News!

I persisted trying to open the trunk with the method described in Mike's link but I couldn't get it to work. After a few hours of dicking around with the 10" screwdriver in the license plate whole, my step-dad said, "let's try the beeper again." He put in a 2032 battery instead of the 2016 recommended by the owner's manual.

Success!
The beeper worked, I unlocked the car and the valet mode message was off. I was then able to open the boot using both the beeper and the dash button.

We checked the battery. The diagnostics say the battery is in good condition. It also looks brand new; there is no oxidation on poles nor is there any acid leaking out of it.

Bad news:

Inserting the key in the hole between the X and the K doesn't fully actuate the lock mechanism even though it can be heard to be moving. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the covers check what's up and lube it all. Maybe there's a loose screw or something.

I guess that confirms the diagnosis. I need a new alternator. My step-brother, who works at Autozone can get me a replacement using the employee discount for about $180 + tax.

 

Good news! Glad you got it to work.

The price on the alternator is not bad either. I think my AutoZone price was around $240.

 

What brand is yours?

What are the available alternator brands for this car?

 

Congratulations, glad to hear you managed.
Interesting with the FOB batteries. The only difference is the thickness, 3,2mm versus 1,6mm.
It would be interesting to hear what you find when diassembling the lock mechanism.

 

Not sure I remember the brand, although I think it was a Denso. A Denso is what was in the car originally. There were at least three choices when I was looking, all in the same general price range.

I know cost is a factor for you, so consider having yours rebuilt if you can be without it for a few days. Any competent auto electrical shop can do this and replacement brushes are supposed to be available. It should cost much less than a new one.

 

My step father suggested getting a new one and then having the old one rebuilt for when this one fails in the next 14 years. Hahaha

I actually need the car around very soon, so I'm going with a new one.

Does a rebuilt alternator last as long?

 

A quality rebuilt one can last quite well. A cheap, poorly remanufactured one can be problematic. Most auto parts places will honor their warranty and replace them, but that means you still have to do the R&I job twice.

If you need it soon the price they quoted you for the new one is reasonable. Go for it and good luck with the job.

 

Thanks Mike!

I checked the latch mechanism on the boot. From what I could see, the metal wire that pulls back on the latch when you twist the key is a little loose. It seems to have lost tension and now doesn't open all the way.

While I was back there, I noticed the latch mechanism is a Ford part, at least according to the brackets holding it.

 

Today I took the car back for another diagnosis before deciding to plunk down cash for a new alternator.

This time it was tested from the battery.

The guy looked at me with bewilderment when I described the troubles I had and he read the results of the test. According to him the alternator and the battery are both in tip top shape. He has no idea what could've caused my little problems on Friday the 27th.

He theorized that it could be a failing starter, but that he highly doubts it.


What does the brain-trust at Jaguarforums think?

 

I'm trying to figure out how someone determined that the alternator was bad.

How did they test it?

 

With a voltmeter
The first time they tested it, because we couldn't access the battery in the trunk, they used the charge points near the engine fusebox.

 

I can draw you a picture showing low voltage at the under hood connections with the engine running due to failing B+ or ground connections between there and the battery. Especially the battery ground strap that has a history of erratic failures

 

That makes sense.

 

Yep, totally makes sense. Which is why I'm thankful I had it checked again after having opened the trunk.

Now I've got some money that I can use for the shock mounts. Now, if only parts geek would have them available now.

 

Hi.


VALET MODE
Using key FOB will cancel valet mode.
Using black key in trunk lock will cancel valet mode.
Using black key in drivers door lock will NOT cancel valet mode.
This is according to drivers manual and also tested.


BAD BATTERY CONNECTION
My car was electrically dead due to a bad positive battery connection. Only way to get into the trunk to remedy problem, was by the key in the trunk lock.


FOB BATTERIES
Some places it say one 2032, other places two 2016. Anyhow, be sure you have a good connection.


GOOD CONTACT
It is impossible to look at a connector to determine if you have a bad connection. This go both for battery posts and ground connectors. Unfasten, clean and refasten.


PROGRAMMING
It is probably not possible to program a new FOB with the valet mode active. (Not tested.)


BATTERY CHARGING
Last time I bought a new battery seller assured me it was fully charged. It was not, only 60%. Had to be charged overnight. Buy a trickle charger.

 

Yep, that seems pretty accurate to me...

Two 2016? I had 1. That explains it.

I'll check the connections in the battery posts.

You're right on the programming in Valet Mode. Not possible. I tried in multiple times.