http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...heet%20XK8.pdf

using this check list will allow you to check resistance to all 4 abs sensors,power to the abs module and fuses etc to finally eliminate that pesky abs, traction control, stability control failure messages.


Once all checks out and the abs sprockets cleaned etc ,you do a hard reset, and you drive a while and the light is still on, the ABS module is shot.

 

I think 'abs module is shot' is a little strong. It may need repair. I have one with a circuit board problem that causes a left front sensor open circuit error, and I'm not sure if that is repairable, but the pump pin solder is a much more common problem and is easy fix.

 

I wish I could remove the whole system,one toy I don't need, have driven for years without it.

I don't agree with any abs system being able to throw a car into an non drivable condition and also control the throttle body and transmission, timing etc lol when it fails.

 

One caveat to this sheet is that from (I think) 2003-on the ABS sensors where changed to hall-effect devices.
My experience has shown the folllowing:-
Testing results vary with the type of ohmmeter used, either the digital DVM or the old-fashioned analogue meter-with-a-needle.

In my case the analogue meter showed forward 40ohms on the Rx10 range and 1500ohms on Rx1K range (infinity other way around).
My DVM showed infinity both ways(!) except using the 'diode test' range - it showed 1.716 one way only.

I believe the hall effect component draws a current off the ohmeter - the digi ones have a high internal resistance so cannot supply the hall sensor with enough current to make it work. (yours may be different )

Finally in my case the R values proved inconclusive - I homebrewed a sensor test rig coupled to an oscilloscope. It seems the sensor was taking 3 secs to generate a waveform from cold, hence ABS module confusion/warnings etc.

 

Do you mean engine failsafe? Or restricted performance? I didn't think an ABS fault could trigger either - or am I wrong?


It will make it illegal to use in the U.K. since a non functioning ABS system is an MOT fail.

 

When mine malfunctioned the car was still driveable. On some models you can remove the module and still drive the car if you don't mind the warning lights.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-repair-62539/


This is what I used to repair my module in the old xk8, it applies to mostly all ,

The wheel speed sensor harness on the turning front tires are usually corroded,or worn through from movement and so can the sensors,

The rears are often dirty and metal all over all sensors, big clean up job lol
oh and don't get any of that metal on your hand, ouch!!

 

To me, ABS has always been a huge PITA. In its early days it was touted as " the same technological marvel used on Jet aircraft !" ... couple that with the word "automatic" and it became a marketing "must have" . the word" automatic' is always an easy draw to those who have no clue...sadly especially we dumbed down Americans.
ABS marketing targets primarily women and effeminate "men" who really don't how to drive and brake an automobile.
Its an extremely complex system ( and extremely expensive ) in any car and is incredibly prone to failure for a litany of reasons. The people who really benefit from it are car salesmen and the mechanics who charge a fortune to repair it. To add insult to injury many cars set a "check engine light or "Map" causing the car to flunk Inspection sticker.

How many Indy 500 , Le mans or grand Prix racing cars have you ever heard of that are fitted with ABS ? case closed

 

I'm tempted to say...what a luddite... but to each his own. At 6'2" and 230 lbs. I hardly think my wife would consider me effeminate and having driven Formula Fords in anger as well as every car in my signature and many more similar ones to boot, I understand the difference between street performance demands and those required for the race track.

Professional race car drivers driver hand built cars that are designed specifically for the task at hand and their braking systems are designed with those tasks in mind. In addition the drivers have years of training on how to handle such vehicles within there narrowly defined purposes.

Street drivers in street cars are faced with an entirely different set of circumstances. Unlike race cars they face a variety of ever changing environments with cars traveling in an almost dizzying number of directions, pedestrians popping up at the most inopportune times, and the occasional loose ball, dog, cat, or 4 year old. None of us is fully equipped or capable of handling those conditions without the aid of the many "automatic" features you appear to dislike. Do you think you are an expert at stopping a car safely and as rapidly as POSSIBLE on a rain or snow slicked road? Do you honestly think that you can shift through 5 or 6 speeds as quickly, smoothly, and correctly as a modern automatic transmission? Have you never been a tad slow in turning on your headlights at dusk or during a sudden hard rain where an automatic system would have done the job effortlessly? Have you the talent to repeatedly, or even once, bring a car to a safe stop while navigating around whatever obstacle your trying to avoid WITHOUT locking the brakes and skidding helplessly into whatever that obstruction was? Do you enjoy constantly fiddling with the A/C & heater controls trying to keep just that right temperature? And lastly, can you do all that while also doing all of the above?

If you can, and you enjoy doing it then I suggest you offer your services to any one of the Formula One teams as they'd want to see what you could do at 200+ mph.

 

The abs sensors all oh-med out normally at the abs module connectors and have similar ohm values to one another.

I used paperclips to stick in the holes, finding my LH rear wheel speed sensor circuit was open, traced it to the white wire abs sensor wire in the center console, cut when installing my stereo by mistake.

I simply soldered it back on and heat shrunk it, no abs light, traction control stability control, gearbox fault,and restricted performance message. That really pissed the ecm off.

And Jaguar told me the abs system is on the can network with the ecm, faults WILL reduce engine torque and MAY SAY "restricted performance". But it will reduce engine torque regardless of rather it tells you or not.

I read a tech overview of our stability control system, its very unique.

 

Yes the CAN network works at the highest speed so all the important stuff goes through it. Didn't know about the covert torque reduction though; these systems are talking behind our backs I suspect
I'm really considering getting one of those fancy-pants code-readers (AutoEnginuity etc) - the cheap generic ones don't tell us squat about ABS and other 'deeper' systems.

BTW where did you find the SCS tech. overview?

 

Hello to all!

Well I've been getting the ABS/Traction Control Fail lights on the dash for approx a month now. It would appear every 3-4 starting cycles. Last week, I checked and cleaned front and rear sensors which helped for about 2 days, then it reappeared.

This weekend I decided to check out and solder, if necessary, the components within. I found that whoever worked on the car before I bought it had almost rounded the 2 torx (or star) bolts (top and bottom facing the front of the car).

I've tried the stripped bolt removers from Sears but can't get a drill in the space to use either the bolt remover or the tool that drills out the bolt. Nothing I have will allow me to grab onto the torx head without further stripping it.

I need help!

Nick

 

Been there.
Grind a slot with a dremel, then use a flat head screwdriver to remove.
Replace the screw with regular face screws at the hardware store, bring an old one to match the thread pitch.

If it wont do, dremel the face of the bolt of,down to the plastic,ignore minor damage to the plastic,pull the module out far as it will go, dremel the body of the bolts as close to the module as possible, so when its out you can pull the remaining body of it out with your hands or vise grips.

 

Thanks for the advice!

I think that cutting the head off the bolt is the way to go.

Thanks again
Nick

 

Why would an ABS (amber) system warning be an MOT failure? My XKR has a switch to turn the DSC system (ABS/Yaw Control/Traction Control) off any time you want anyway. Just curious, as mine occasionally throws the DSC System Error message and I wouldn't want to land an MOT failure if she throws that particular hissy fit on inspection day.

 

Yes 'fraid so. The ABS light (with all the others) must illuminate at 2nd ignition position, and extinguish once the engine is running. ABS light on is an MOT fail.
I wasn't aware that the DSC switch turned off the ABS though(?).
Sounds like you might have dodgy sensor connectors.

 

Here in Boston , the Buick "winter car" I drive has had an ABS light on for 2 years. On a US Buick, everything functions as normal except there is no pulsing ABS function...just normal brakes. The ABS problem DOES NOT set a "check engine condition " or "MOT" as the Brits call it. Even in uber liberal far left Massachusetts the Buick still passes annual inspection.
IMO, the ABS light on a Jaguar that sets a "MOT" should be replaced with a light that says "$900" which is about what the victim will pay a Jag dealer to fix the system.
Its not surprising though that a country (GB) would ban the "leaper" on the Jaguar hood claiming it to be "dangerous in an accident" would also not allow an inspection sticker on a car on which a high end enhancement ( ABS brakes) that IS NOT required to functionally brake the car. Also not surprising that Jaguar would set a "MOT" because of an ABS/TRAC malfunction. They love the sound of that cash register ringing as it is fed $900 bucks of "repair money"

 

Just to clarify for our US friends all our cars here in the UK over 3 years old are subject to an annual checkover at a suitable testing facility. If OK an MOT (Ministry of Transport) certificate is issued.
Without this paperwork it is impossible to tax and insure the car legally so a fail means your off the road buddy 'till it's fixed.
Many here share your view that it's a cash cow for the government and trade, but I'm old enough to have seen the horrific wrecks masquarading as cars still on the road before they had the MOT test
Bizarrly cars over a certain age (50 years I think) are regarded as 'classic' and no longer need a MOT certificate - go figure.

 

I think its actually an EU rule? My wife's Suzuki Wagon R+ didn't come with ABS as an option and I understood that's why they had to stop selling them (and the Vauxhall Agila derivative) when the EU rule came in?

 

Annual safety inspections are law here in North Carolina but they do not appear to be nearly as rigorous as your MOT inspections across the pond. Essentially, the inspector plugs his computer into the OBDII port to monitor engine emissions and check for trouble codes. A cursory visual check of the lights, fluids, tires, wipers, horn, and brake pads takes place while the computer runs its tests. If there are no issues, you're done in about ten minutes and you pay the $30 fee. This is required prior to the annual renewal of your vehicle's license plate along with the payment of the annual property taxes on the vehicle....