Hi Guys,

Today I did new gaskets and the zip tie change on my secondary tensioners. I have to admit that it had me thinking a little harder than the average wrenching. All went well but from looking previously I knew the coil covers had issues.

When trying to remove the coil covers most bolts were already loose in the hole with the brass fitting that is supposed to stay in the valve cover stuck on the bolts. Unfortunately both have an corner ear broken off the plastic but otherwise usable. I think maybe three fittings total still in the covers.

How does a man go about fixing these where you can get the bolts to stay and one day come back out for future work?

What have you tried that works?

 

JB Weld (regular, not quick set) works really well for this. I and others have used it successfully. Another possibility at the end of this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-bolts-158284/

 

That JB weld is good stuff, I have never used as a plastic glue I will give it a try then use some anti-seize on them.
I think the last few guys that worked on my car for PO must have been on steroids or something. Everything was way too tight that they worked on, and I suspect these where another items they touched.
Oh and I swear I read at least 10 threads on three different searches, so thanks again for the info.

 

Just remembered one other thing since you were so helpful. One of the covers has a nice factory gasket on it and the other had some gasket maker spread on it. Has anyone found a good way to make the gasket for the coil cover?

Surprised how cheap a new one is, did I just say that....

As low as $24 plus shipping or about $34 total for brand new. That would be one way to fix the gasket missing.

Just thinking something should be done as there was a little dirt down in there when I took off the cam covers, and it could go into cylinder on plug change.

 

I also used JB Weld to hold the brass knurled nuts in. I also replaced the screws with allen head bolts with washers so they wouldn't break the tabs off so easily.


Dave

 

I plan to glue mine back today the check out the bolts and washer concept. Thanks for suggestions and confirmations.

Any ideas on the gaskets need to fix on one side and not sure what material would hold up to temps. I have some sheet high density foam that is closed cell but not sure it would melt. Cork sheet is probably better suited but none on hand. Any ideas on this one greatly appreciated.

Just remembered something in stock. What do you think about the foam rubber seal you use on a camper shell for a truck. That i have in stock, and that is a peel and stick one side material. Anyone ever use it under a hood?

 

You could try the stuff that's meant for draught-sealing doors: it's about 1/4" wide and also 'peel and stick'. Don't know how it will stand up to the heat, but it's easy enough to replace?

I'm in the middle of this after lifting cover to check for metal tensioners. It's all a bit rubbish, IMHO. Three brass fixings on one side pulled out and one on the other, together with a broken ear on one of the covers.

JTIS gives the torque for these bolts (and the coil pack bolts, which screw into the same type/size of brass fasteners) as 4-6 NM. I plan on just nipping them all 'finger tight and then a smidgeon' using anti-seize and the socket alone & then check after a while to see if they've stayed put.

If a glue job doesn't work on the broken ear I'll probably end up replacing the cover - especially as I won't have to sell the other kidney to pay for it - amazing!.

Mike

 

You could clean up the underside real good and then put a nice round bead of red RTV around where the gasket should go and then let it cure completely off the car. It should seal better than foam anyways.


Dave

 

Dave,
I thought about that but don't think i could get a even sized bead.

Mike if worried about one corner turn it to lower and if really bugging you maybe able to fashion a small angle braket to hold light pressure on top.

I think peel and stick foam to cover and replace if messed up at next need to remove.

 

Thanks, Tex.
I dont' think it even needs to be a super seal as there are no louvres on the '8 to let in rain water.

Probably the OCD kicking in..

Best,
Mike

 

Well when I took it off there wasn't any mud in there but plenty of sand, would like to just stop that from being in there and falling in on plug changes and yes OCD is definitely an issue with me.... It is the Irish that keeps me from spending money on anything but alcohol.

Oh yea the reason behind starting this thread. I glued (welded) in the nuts and thought I would add the way I did it in case someone else finds this thread.

I used the JB weld and cleaned holes with contact cleaner (wear glasses to protect your eyes). The deal in my case was the holes were still tight and I couldn't simply push the nut portion in with my finger as they kind of make threads and just back out when you try to remove the bolts. I used one of the bolts and a regular nut a size bigger slipped over it so I would only get about 4 threads before things jam-nutted and I was able to put a little downward pressure and turn them back in with glue applied, using this method along with some good copper anti-seize allow me to back the bolt back out leaving the brass nut part in the valve cover. Do not be tempted to tap them in, and if you don't belief that is a good suggestion, look up the price of a valve cover as that should convince you.

 

Hey Michael that car of your looks great. I think your car is going to out live you unless you start driving it more.
Mine is a 97 sapphire convert with almost 120K miles on it, going through some mechanical restoration work and I hope to do the paint and interior refresh soon. She is really starting to be some kind of fun to drive.

 

Hey Tex,
Mmm. That thought had crossed my mind. At the present rate it will be another 83 years before we hit 100k..
Long story short, it was a birthday present from my wife 12 years ago when the kids were small, so it's never really been a daily driver. Also, Jersey's only 9 miles x 5 so no long runs

I've been following your restore thread - some great pictures, and I love the colour

The rate you're progressing you will be ready for the summer, and these cars really are something else aren't they? You will turn around after you lock up and walk away - I still do.

Enjoy the journey - don't forget the final pics!

Best,
Mike

 

Funny Mike,
I drove it to work today and put the hammer to it a few times, what a kick in the pants. It is really running strong at almost 120K so you have many years of smiles left.

I feel like I am closing in fast on one sweet ride, and you are right even with my no clear coat paint on the hood and trunk I do still look back at it walking away.

Put the coil covers back on this morning and everything seems to have worked well, thanks to you guys again for jumping in and helping with your experience. You just can't even pay for this kind of help.

I think this wraps it up from me under the hood for a while. On to some paint work.