You might want to check the T-fitting on the pump (which is right near the plugs) to make sure it is tight (clockwise). When I was installing the resistor kit, I bumped it a few times trying to undo the plug. I tried to raise the top, but it wouldn't move. The problem was that the T-fitting got turned (opened) and prevented the top from operating.

Hope this helps.

Jim

 

I'd like a Voltage Reduction Kit for a '03 XK8 convertible we just bought. Do you have another one available? I didn't see link to order one.

 

In the interest of full disclosure, you should read this thread...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-videos-61556/

and this thread...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ake-2-a-61565/

before making a decision to buy the resistor. I personally believe the resistor is still helpful at reducing burst hoses, but before selling one I want the potential buyers to be fully informed.

If you're still interested after reading those threads, just PM me.

 

Sorry, I'm a novice on this, so I'm not sure what "PM" you refer to (in my profession, it could mean "preventative maintenance" which is why I'm contacting you.

I had researched this fix after the local Jag dealer wanted to replace the hydraulic hoses leading to latch, but previous owner's repair receipts reflect the dealer recommended replacing the latch mechanism. My guess is the voltage reduction will solve the problem of very minor fluid leak.

I understand I need to use paypal, and I just set that up. Please coach me on the next step.

 

Neither the voltage reduction kit nor the pressure relief valve will stop the fluid leak. Even with either reduction method installed you're still going to have a minimum of 1000 PSI in the hydraulic line.

Have you been able to determine where it's leaking? If it's the actual valve leaking, that's good news. It would be much easier and cheaper to replace than the hoses.

And PM means "private message". To PM someone click on their user name over on the left side of the page next to their post. You'll see a list of options, one of them is "send private message".

Oh shoot. I just noticed, you only have two posts I don't think you can send PMs until you have about ten posts. But the good news is that you don't need to send me a PM! The resistor would not help you at all, so you really don't need to buy one. But hang around! You can learn a LOT about your car here on the forum.

I'll try to post a video in the next day or two which will show how to pull off the metal piece at the top of the windshield to inspect your hoses and latch valve. It should be pretty easy to determine if you need a new latch or a new hose.

 

Hey, I just noticed, you're in East, Tennessee. Whereabouts? (LOL, I can't believe "whereabouts" didn't get corrected by my spellchecker. It's a real word!). My wife and I like to go up to Gatlinburg. We're thinking about buying a condo up there.

 

I have a lot of information on my page relating to the hyd hose failures and the associated leaks. You can remove the top plate of the header to see what is leaking. However, most of the time it is the hose crimp connection at the roof latch is the primary cause and the latch seal has been secondary. Both leaks have been related to excessive pressure but reducing the pressure will not eliminate the problem on an already stressed system , replacement is the only sure way.

Link: XK8/R Hydraulic System Evaluation

In my procedure to replace the hose you can see the header and the latch mechanism and the failed hose.

Link: Jaguar Roof Hose Replacement

I hope this helps

 

Hi, guys. I'm a Jag Forums newbie and recent XK8 owner newbie. I've read almost every post here and on Roadfly about the hydraulic top system and its ensuing failures. I will be installing something on my XK8 shortly to minimize line failure.

My dumb question is one centered around the pressure relief valve on the pump itself. Not knowing exactly how that is constructed, and assuming this relief valve allows the "backflow" of fluid from the lines/pump into the reservoir, couldn't we simply experiment with "partially opening" the pressure relief valve on the pump and achieve the same results in dropping the system pressure to an acceptable level (i.e., one that generates the ~1K psi needed to lift/drop/lock/unlock the top but one that doesn't allow the system to spike to the 1.6K psi that reaches the line limits)? If that "open point" on the relief valve could be found, I'm sure we could find a way to keep it in that position. Maybe that valve adjustment wouldn't be granular enough to get it just right, but I have to ask.

Just curious as to your thoughts...

Thanks!

 

This is an interesting thought, and I think worth some experimentation. My gut says that it will slow down the top significantly and might be quite difficult to set 'just right'.

UPDATE: Tried this. The top slows waaay down, and the pump runs and runs, even with the valve just opened a crack...not a practical solution.

 

My view of this is without a type of regulation to eliminate the peak is that you will see the same results as reducing voltage. It would be like an orifice it will slow down the flow but not reduce the pressure. The objective is to see the peak and divert it before it gets to the other equipment and that is what the regulator does.

 

Some amount of pressure reduction has been achieved by lowering voltage, but not nearly as much as first thought.

Another forum member is looking into a more advanced form of voltage control, in the hope of improving the results to date.

 

I have high hopes that he can.

 

Rev,

Taking drives to Gatlinburg is part of the plan for picking up XK8 convertibile. I travel most weekdays for business, and home projects consume too much time on weekends. During one of my lonely nights in a hotel room and surfing the web, there it was! The answer to my prayers!

There's a little more to this story, but you get the jist. We also own a '86 Series III VP and '07 XJ8 (besides pickup truck), so seem to be a little loyal to the brand. We have never owned a convertible before, so didn't consider the maintenance of the hydraulics. When the XK arrived, there was an oil drip dangling from the screen near overhead lights. I wiped it off, and assumed it to be an over generous application of lubrication. I haven't seen any oil since that cleaning, but when my wife took it to local dealer for oil change and detailing, she mentioned the oil. The dealer called me back and said the lines have to be replaced, and oh by the way, the remaining lines may need replacement if previous owner hasn't already. Not one to ok a $1,000+ and $2,000+ repair bill over the phone, I told him to hold off.

I then started internet research, and have read several of the postings here (can't say most, there's so many). As I recall, one string discussed the pros and cons of whether voltage reduction will prevent hose burst if it already is leaking. Obviously I understand fluid will be forced through a crack in the line at any pressure, but I concluded that the VR can help reduce pressure of aging hoses. I haven't opened up the cover over the windshield yet, but if the tendency to leak is through O-rings of latch, then this could solve the issue if it is the O-rings leaking by the high pressure. Another piece of information is the previous owner kept all his service records, and earlier this year the hydraulic pump was replaced at which time the dealer noted on the service bill that the latch still required replacement (cost of $845).

Thats where I'm at on this issue. Other than the dealer scaring my wife into thinking this could rupture at any time (but not saying it won't), I'm trying to correct the situation without losing any remaining cruisin' days in the Smokeys. Some day we can rendevous and talk shop there. It looks like we have '03 twins, if I correctly saw your cat.

 

Neither of the pressure reductions will prevent an already stressed system from failing. The hoses that fail are consistently at the crimp connection. What takes place is that the hose pulls out from the crimp connection as a result of the excessive pressure. As for the “O” rings they do fail and leak at times but not at a consistent rate the hoses do. This link will provide you information on what fails and where XK8/R Hydraulic System Evaluation

 

Gus,
Your website is already one of my "Favorites"! It was your information that leads me to conclude the drip was probably from the roof latch. As I noted in my previous post, the service bill for previous owner's replacement of hydraulic pump earlier this year had note from dealer that the latch needed replacement. I believe if the hose was beginning to fail, they would not note the latch. I believe our dealer last week categorically said the lines to roof latch. As I also noted, there hasn't been a drop of oil since cleaning the screen last week even though I have operated the system. In either case, I will inspect hoses and latch before making any major decision.

 

Let us know what you find. When I replaced my hose I replaced the latch at the same time. There was a time that Jaguar felt and would have suggested that the latch was the cause of the hose failures. I think they know better now. As for the pump yours would be the second one that I know of that has failed. Do they give an indication as to why they replaced it?

 

I'm curious, too, as to why they replaced the pump. Your website discusses the pump should last a long time. I'll do more digging into the service records as well as any information on "complaint" when they replaced the pump. I'm out of town, and hope to get chance to look at records and latch/hoses this weekend.

 

I understand the out of town thing we have been going up and down from Md to Va and back once every other week. No problem let us know what you find.

 

I had a chance to remove the top cap over the locking mechanism over the windshield. There isn't any significant amount of oil in the trough nor any oil visible around fittings. Since I had just lower the top, I would have expected to see fresh oil if there was active leakage. The hoses also look to be in good condition.

I then pulled out the service record from the previous owner. He had the convertible top motor replaced, and the service request states "shorted out - kept plowing the fuse". Further, the service request noted "Check for top leak - needs hydraulic ram for top latch."

With this information, and knowing there is no apparent active leak, what would you think the oil source was? I was wondering if when they replaced the pump, they also flushed and replaced the fluid. In some strings on the forum, people have described the top fluid as green. This fluid is brown and approximately the viscosity of motor oil. If they did, and some oil was spilled in the trough, I figure the transport from FL to TN may have vibrated the oil out of the grille below the latch. It that's true, I don't know why the service request (before changing the pump) would have noted the top leak. Is it possible that different fluid would cause a different response with the hydraulic ram in the latch?

In any case, there doesn't appear to be any imminent failure of the hoses. Nevertheless, I'm inclined to reduce the hydraulic pressure to keep it that way. What do you think?

 

The high pressure takes place in both open and close operation of the roof. However, the hose that fails is the close hose the one that is closer to the roof latch claw. It is a real shame that you could not pinpoint the cause of the leak. If your service records indicate that the latch was the source of the leak then I would go with it since you checked it and did not find another source. As for another source for the leak you have no other hyd lines in that area. My only guess is that you may be getting residue from a previous leak that may have been repaired. This would be possible if a previous leak was on fact repaired but cleanup was not done. As for the color of the hyd fluid Pentosin CHF 11s look at the photo of my fluid http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa.../IMG_1316w.jpg and it is the recommended fluid and it is green. Your car being a 2003 it did not have the old fluid in the system.