Voltage Reduction System - Convertible Hydraulics
#201
#202
#203
Ta Dah !! Finaaly got the top working as it should. How ?? I took it to the friendly corner Jag shop and there was told (with a slight grin and wink) that it is customary to connect the wires in black to black and white to white fashion. Who knew Brits are so into customs and traditions? I can still sense the hysterical laughter.
As we progress into spring and gain a credible log, I'll report on how well all works. Thanks to all for your help and to the Li'l Jag Shop for quickly catching my little faux pas.
As we progress into spring and gain a credible log, I'll report on how well all works. Thanks to all for your help and to the Li'l Jag Shop for quickly catching my little faux pas.
I will let sleeping dogs lie, but am totally at sea on this one. If the wires were reversed, it seems to me the pump should have been pushing in the wrong direction at all times, and so It's unclear how anything could have moved at all.
But, not wanting to argue with success, if it works now so be it.
Sam,
Very nice package. I'm a little concerned though about putting this in the hands of someone with no grounding in the nature of the solution, engine-on v. engine-off operation, what to do if there's trouble, etc. "Do no harm" and all that.
I'd recommend you provide some explanation of your own on these things, or point your buyers to my paper at www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm .
Just a thought.
Last edited by Dennis07; 04-13-2011 at 07:22 PM.
#204
#205
#206
Voltage Reduction Works Great
Dennis, can't believe this is still being contested. As one of the first to utilize your voltage reduction method and living in Florida, a lot of top up's and down's, it has worked flawlessly. Occasionally the latch will not completely close but, I release the top switch for a few seconds reapply and the latch closes. If you want to save a lot of money and your hydraulics this is the way to go.
#207
my 2 cents worth
Good day all:
I have had the resistor in for a year
Live in a northern climate so not alot of use
But usually every time I drive the car I use the top
Before I put the resistor in I figured I would keep the car on but not running as then I would use the float voltage of the battery which is lower than the running voltage. At least according to the chart the pressure is lower. I am not sure if it says anywhere in the manual about not using the top without the car running. Anyway I have the resistor in and I usually still put the top up and down without the car running ( I have a good battery ) Forget what the psi would be but doing it that way its as low as I can get it. And only a couple of times do I have to press the button again to get it to latch on closing. System seems fine. Anybody no what the pressure would be with resistor in place and car not running ( I guess around 12.5 volts ) I dont know the state of my hoses so the least pressure I can get the better. Besides when you have a hot date and you hand her an umbrella when the top is going up or down they kind of look at you weird !!!!!
I have had the resistor in for a year
Live in a northern climate so not alot of use
But usually every time I drive the car I use the top
Before I put the resistor in I figured I would keep the car on but not running as then I would use the float voltage of the battery which is lower than the running voltage. At least according to the chart the pressure is lower. I am not sure if it says anywhere in the manual about not using the top without the car running. Anyway I have the resistor in and I usually still put the top up and down without the car running ( I have a good battery ) Forget what the psi would be but doing it that way its as low as I can get it. And only a couple of times do I have to press the button again to get it to latch on closing. System seems fine. Anybody no what the pressure would be with resistor in place and car not running ( I guess around 12.5 volts ) I dont know the state of my hoses so the least pressure I can get the better. Besides when you have a hot date and you hand her an umbrella when the top is going up or down they kind of look at you weird !!!!!
#208
I took some data a while back documented in this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ake-2-a-61565/. Please jump to Post #30 for the correct results.
#209
Also, please see ...
www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm
... where somewhat different results are discussed.
On operating the top without the engine running: pretty sure the manual says not to do this, but that makes no sense since the top can be operated by using the ignition key in the door lock ... and the engine is sure not running when you do that. Go figure.
So many guys have operated the top "engine off" for so long, there just can't be any real problem with doing so.
www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar01.htm
... where somewhat different results are discussed.
On operating the top without the engine running: pretty sure the manual says not to do this, but that makes no sense since the top can be operated by using the ignition key in the door lock ... and the engine is sure not running when you do that. Go figure.
So many guys have operated the top "engine off" for so long, there just can't be any real problem with doing so.
Last edited by Dennis07; 04-18-2012 at 04:37 AM.
#210
I do not think that is the case Dennis. TSB 501-11 states to conduct diagnostic tests on the top with the engine running, but there is no prohibition on day-to-day operation.
#211
You're probably right. I thought there was something in the driver's handbook (which I have of course committed to memory) but like so much else this may have been just a dream.
Last edited by Dennis07; 04-18-2012 at 06:57 AM.
#212
The pictured device
If anyone else wants to do the voltage reduction fix, I'm now selling a complete harness that you can simply plug in. There is no need to cut, solder, and crimp wires. Here's what you get:
This pic shows the complete harness. I left the wires long enough so that you can mount it on the top of the metal rack that holds the pump if you want. Or, you can just fold the wires over and zip tie it to the existing harness. Most wire insulation is rated for at least 500 degrees Fahrenheit, so you're not going to melt the wiring.
And here's a closeup of the connectors. They match the existing connectors perfectly. Thanks go to reko19 for finding those.
I'll also throw in a couple of zip ties so you can tie it down somewhere. You don't want it rattling around back there. I'll be uploading a video shortly which shows how easy it is to install. The cost for the whole resistor harness assembly is $20 which includes shipping to the US. If you want it shipped outside of the US then let me know and I'll figure out how much shipping costs to your country.
By the way, all connections are SOLDERED so they will not come apart. On the resistor itself the connections are soldered then shrink-wrapped to prevent the solder joint from shorting out on something in the trunk. The pins on these connectors are very tight, so you might want to slide the male and female bits together a few times before clicking them down tight.
Just PM me your address and I'll PM you my paypal address. If you don't do paypal you can just tape a $20 bill to the passenger side visor on a 2005+ S-Type R and ship the entire thing to North Carolina. OK, fine... just stick it in an envelope. I accept cash.
This pic shows the complete harness. I left the wires long enough so that you can mount it on the top of the metal rack that holds the pump if you want. Or, you can just fold the wires over and zip tie it to the existing harness. Most wire insulation is rated for at least 500 degrees Fahrenheit, so you're not going to melt the wiring.
And here's a closeup of the connectors. They match the existing connectors perfectly. Thanks go to reko19 for finding those.
I'll also throw in a couple of zip ties so you can tie it down somewhere. You don't want it rattling around back there. I'll be uploading a video shortly which shows how easy it is to install. The cost for the whole resistor harness assembly is $20 which includes shipping to the US. If you want it shipped outside of the US then let me know and I'll figure out how much shipping costs to your country.
By the way, all connections are SOLDERED so they will not come apart. On the resistor itself the connections are soldered then shrink-wrapped to prevent the solder joint from shorting out on something in the trunk. The pins on these connectors are very tight, so you might want to slide the male and female bits together a few times before clicking them down tight.
Just PM me your address and I'll PM you my paypal address. If you don't do paypal you can just tape a $20 bill to the passenger side visor on a 2005+ S-Type R and ship the entire thing to North Carolina. OK, fine... just stick it in an envelope. I accept cash.
wher can I buy this device for my 2000 xk8. I tried to make one, didn’t work. I don’t know.
#214
Also,,, I do like the idea of reducing the voltage to the pump if it will slow it, and reduce the pressure... One thing/question that came to mind for me was this, and maybe someone already asked (and I will not get into some crazy debate) but,,,,. Liquid doesn't compress. So,,, even if there is a reduction in pump speed there is only, after all, so much room in the lines. The thatop Instill weighs the same - and the force to move it remains the same... In that,,, isn't it possible that the pressure to MOVE the top will still be the same (high - possibly over 950 psi) just coursing thru the lines more slowly, hence, moving the top more slowly? Just wondering...
If you ignore that question (considering you might still be having flashbacks due to your experience here 10yrs ago 😂🤣😂😅😅 I'll understand.
#217
Hey Dennis... Somewhere back there,,, some 10pages or so ago,,, I thought that you'd suggested that you have the in'z on pumps (only) for these pump units...? Is that still the case? I mean, only the encased motor without the tank, valves, couplers and Electrical...
Also,,, I do like the idea of reducing the voltage to the pump if it will slow it, and reduce the pressure... One thing/question that came to mind for me was this, and maybe someone already asked (and I will not get into some crazy debate) but,,,,. Liquid doesn't compress. So,,, even if there is a reduction in pump speed there is only, after all, so much room in the lines. The thatop Instill weighs the same - and the force to move it remains the same... In that,,, isn't it possible that the pressure to MOVE the top will still be the same (high - possibly over 950 psi) just coursing thru the lines more slowly, hence, moving the top more slowly? Just wondering...
If you ignore that question (considering you might still be having flashbacks due to your experience here 10yrs ago 😂🤣😂😅😅 I'll understand.
Also,,, I do like the idea of reducing the voltage to the pump if it will slow it, and reduce the pressure... One thing/question that came to mind for me was this, and maybe someone already asked (and I will not get into some crazy debate) but,,,,. Liquid doesn't compress. So,,, even if there is a reduction in pump speed there is only, after all, so much room in the lines. The thatop Instill weighs the same - and the force to move it remains the same... In that,,, isn't it possible that the pressure to MOVE the top will still be the same (high - possibly over 950 psi) just coursing thru the lines more slowly, hence, moving the top more slowly? Just wondering...
If you ignore that question (considering you might still be having flashbacks due to your experience here 10yrs ago 😂🤣😂😅😅 I'll understand.
I bought a used pump on eBay once as a spare, but that's as close as I can come to a hit on your first question. Never had a source for pump motors, etc.
Reading your second question, I developed a facial tick and then my left hand started shaking. But it's better now so ...
Short(?) answer is that these pump are of the "positive displacement" variety (Google that) ... generally, with these the pressure does not depend so much on the pump speed as on the hydraulic load. But we have a special case here (and nobody knew it back when) ... our pumps have internal relief valves, and it is these valves that regulate peak pressures. Hence the resistor does not reduce peak pressure as much as would otherwise be expected. What can reduce peak pressure more directly is:
- installing an external relief valve set to a lower pressure limit than the internal valves, or ...
- modifying the internal valves so as to reduce the peak pressure they allow.
A "how to" on that second approach can be found with my sig. line below.
That twitch is coming back so I'll stop..
Last edited by Dennis07; 02-07-2020 at 08:19 AM. Reason: I had used an incorrect name for Positive Displacement pumps
#218
At the risk of "pulling a scab" you might also want to check out the other solution which is basically a pressure limiter that was designed by a couple of guys on the forum--Gus and Walt. I recall that Gus took excruciating measurements of pressure in the system as stock, with the "pressure limiter", and with the voltage reduction system. Search through the scores of posts on the subject and reach your own conclusions. I was one of the early buyers of Gus/Walt's pressure limiter gizmos and it has worked well. These may still be available by contacting Gus.
Doug
Doug
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JayJagJay (02-06-2020)
#219