My motivation for digging into this was cost, but also wanting to minimize how invasive the installation was to be. Removing the pump and (potentially) disturbing hydraulic connections scared the bejeezuz out of me. It's the frailty of these connections that causes trouble in the first place, after all.

If I read correctly, there is one case reported here of a hydraulic leak showing up at a pump fitting after installation of the relief valve. For me, the less we disturb the better.

 

How long did it take for you to get the resistors? I ordered mine on the 10th and it still has not been delivered.

 

Wire loom:

 

Any day now if you did the ebay item. I just received mine Friday. and it feels about close to the time you ordered yours.

 

Yes stevetech, I got them from ebay. Couldn't find them locally.

 

You won't recognize the postage and the funky green envelope...well that's just another one of life's adventures.

 

 

Ya know what sucks... I really want to do this to my car, but I'm trying to sell it. 99.999% of the people won't see it as a selling point, so it's ridiculous for me to spend money on something that isn't going to add value to the car. Yet I still want to do it!

Of course, if the hose pops tomorrow on my trip to the beach I'll be kicking myself for not doing it already.

 

The resistors arrived from Mouser today and I will install them this weekend.After reading both sides on this,I went with the voltage reduction method.I am in the electrical industry and I confirmed with my specialist on dc motors that this wouldn't hurt the motor so I will give it a try.I only put my top up and down a couple of times a year so duty cycle is not a concern.I will run the top up and down a couple of time after installing the resistors and post my results.

 

Two items:

- Just a note to be sure I'm not confusing anyone: while I believed early-on that we could infer the amount of pressure reduction from increased top up/down cycle times, I learned that this is not really the case. So while these times will be longer with voltage reduction in place I would caution against reading too much into those numbers. Where voltage reduction really matters is at the end of the "close latch" operation ... when the pump is working against a dead-head condition (or close to it) and making all the pressure it can. There, lower voltage makes lower torque makes lower pressure. There's no way to measure this w/o instruments, but you can hear a difference v. operating at full voltage ... a less "intense" sound from the pump, a bit slower latch closure is all I can think of to describe it.

- I'm overdue for a re-post of the PDF file, showing installation methods from other members that are better than my own. Sorry! If you're getting ready to install it's worth a look, IMO. No later than Saturday, if the creek don't rise.

 

Got my resistor in the funky green envelope directly from Hong Kong, China. Now just need to find time to install it. Headed to FL next Wednesday!

 

Hah, coincidental! I'm writing this from the Tampa Airport heading back home from delivering a BMW to a client. I'll be installing my resistor today or this weekend.

 

I also received my funky green envelope this week. That's my project tomorrow morning.

 

Revised .PDF Available for Download

I've attached (I hope; my first attempt at this) the latest issue of the PDF file describing the Voltage Reduction System and its installation. This is issue 1.6. Probably not much of interest here if you have already installed the system.

If your're contemplating an installation, there are two new, improved installation methods shown. These are better than my own method shown in the first PDF. Thanks to Test_point and RichXK8 (member of another forum) for these contributions.

This will be, with a little luck, the last PDF for a while. If any user problems develop, I promise to report on them.

Edit: the most recent version of the PDF file is always available for download from: www.scorekeeper.com/jaguar/jaguar02.htm

 

Thanks Dennis,

Nice writeup, well done and thorough.

I'm going to get to this today on my own car, then I'll be able to offer it to my customers after I get a personal hands on feel, although I am confident with it now, in theory.

I suggest, at this point, you contact one of the Mods to have this writeup stickyed so future members can review and consider it.

TO THE MODS, this and the relief valve should be captured in one common place, under one title, so that future readers readily understand this is a single issue with two possible solutions.

Best,

 

Stevetech, is that you with a new d/b/a?

 

I can't seem to download that file. I keep getting a message that I am unable to because the moderators haven't granted me permission. I'm getting ready to do this just on the pics from the roadfly thread. I showed my tech and it looks so easy. by the way I can't download anything on this forum yet. Is there somthing I need to do?
thankd

 

Hey growler, you should check this link out to contact our Admin


https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...t=35504&page=8

steve, either me or one of our forum team will get down to it
Thanks for the heads up

 

Thank you so much. There has been a glitch however. Every time I go to the url for full access that you so kindly sent. It asks me to sign in, so I do then I get the thank you for logging in growler and then when the full page gets up I get the v bulletin telling me my log-in failed. I can log in here just not on the page you sent to get full access. Sorry for doing this on this thread but I would like the benefit of seeing that pdf before adding those resistors. I have wholesale accounts with electrical parts suppliers also and might be able to work up something with this.

 

whoops it looks like I have full access now so that is not an issue. Sorry if I have been annoying.