After finding out that the coolant level is slowly decreasing and with a small puddle under the car I visited my dealer. He told me that the water pump is leaking -just a little - and offered replacement, the cost of the water pump being 650 USD plus labour. The part number is C2A 1206. I searched the internet for a cheaper replacement option and found GMB (Part No 125-6030) for about 120 USD and a water pump with the spec AJ88912 in UK for 122 USD. Am I right that these two pumps are fitted with the metal impeller unlike the original one? According to the specs it should be possible to use any of these. Will I need anything else - e.g. another gasket?
Thanks, Tom.

 

I bought the metal finned water pump, gaskets and thermostat for $180 US from Continental imports in CA. Comes as a kit and is fairly easy to install yourself.

 

The water pump is one of the surprisingly inexpensive parts on the Jaguar because it is common with several Ford cars. They are about US$70 at almost any auto parts stores. Thermostat about US$25 there also.

 

The original plastic impeller water pump would be the better choice. A metal blade impeller would require a different coolant type with more silica to protect it against cavitation.

 

Thanks to all!

Interesting point with the different coolant type required for the metal blade impeller. I know there is a thread here about the coolant types. Perhaps the orange one is suitable for the plastic blade impeller and the green one for the metal?

to itspec60: What coolant do you use?

Tom

 

I use the prestone 50/50 mix. It claims that it can be used in any car calling for anytype of coolant. I have to disagree with Avos on the plastic fin pump. I am not saying he is wrong about cavitation, and this may have some effect on a modified engine that has been taken 200+ HP above factory specs. The reason for going to the metal fins is because of the plastic fin breakage. You don't know it's happening and your pump looses it's effectivness.

 

Stick to the metal ! Jaguar had loads of problems in th UK with the plastic blades faling off the pump, and soon went over to metal. The warranty costs were too much !

Cars mysteriously boiled up yet there seemed nothing wrong..... until they took the pump off and saw there were no blades on the impeller ! Thing is, nobody said what happened to the pieces of the blade that fell off.

 

12 YEARS ago, with the first versions of plastic impellers there was indeed an issue (see TSB 303-60), but was sorted back then.

If you still want to use metal ones (can't recommend) then you better choose a different coolant type for that water pump like a HOAT, as the standard Jaguar coolant (OAT) doesn't have additives to combat cavitation effects.

The metal impellers on the market are for the Lincoln LS 3.9 engines, and Ford recommends here to use a HOAT type (specification WSS-M97B51-A1), and that has cavitation protection additives (an example is Zerex G-05).

PS1 The extra hp I have has nothing to do with the speed of the pump and cavitation!
PS2 Stick to the Jaguar OAT coolant and Plastic impellor waterpump!

 

Avos,

Sounds like you have this issue surrounded. MY '01 ... had they sorted out the impeller issue by then, or am I running on borrowed time?

(BTW, ~ 3 years now runnig G-05, but that's a whole 'nother thread, huh?)

Thanks,

 

Jaguar changed the original water pumps from plastic to plastic, not metal.

The metal finned water pumps "out there" are non-OEM and are quite inferior to the OEM NEW plastic pumps. I know because I got a "deal" on six metal water pumps ($25 each). After installing the first two on customer cars and both leaked at the bearing in less than 500 miles, I threw the other four away....lesson learned.

BTW, after the part upgrade to a different plastic, no impeller fin wear occurs and there shouldn't be any of the original pumps out there anymore, unless it is some unscrupulous parts supplier pushing old inventory as this change occurred years ago. The plastic fins can be IDed by color. One is black and the other white.

Always use the Coolant type specified by Jaguar based on MY as all cooling components and gaskets/seals/sealants are specced compatible with the original coolant specs. Switching coolant types could cause advanced deterioration of coolant components.

1999 was a transition year by VIN as Jaguar switched from a traditional Dow spec green coolant to an OAT formula. If your car needs the orange OAT formula there will be a sticker on the Filler tank saying to use only Orange colored coolant...provided the tank is the original.

 

Steve,

When did they upgrade the plastic? Is MY '01 old stuff or new struff? (Or maybe that coincided with the 1999 change you mentioned?)

Thanks,

 

The water pump fin issue was resolved in the first couple years so your '01 is fine as far as that is concerned. Still may be a few '97 - '98 cars out there with them.

 

The C2A1206 pumps are just fine. The controversy is with the JLMxxxx part numbered pumps. The early ones crumbled and failed.

Here is the TSB 303-60am

bob gauff

 

Interesting my jag dealer here in San Jose (they are the largest dealer in the South Bay area) replaces water pumps with the metal impeller version and still insist on orange (OAT) coolant. guess the Jag dealers don't know what they are doing!!.

Thats for a 2001 XKR. They charge $85 for the pump and $450 to do the whole job.

 

Know plenty of dealers that do know what they are doing, of course there is always the odd one...

 

I have just picked up a water pump (yesterday) from the Jaguar dealership. It has a while impeller. The one I am removing (MY 97) has a black impeller, but does appear that something has been replaced, as bolts showed signs of being removed.

I assuming from your comment that the new impeller is white?

The black impeller is still intact, but I did have my car overheat on me anyways. I am enlisting a friend's help to replace both water pump, t-stat and the serpentine belt.

Having it disassembled, we don't see an obvious sign of the overheating cause, so I hope that a t-stat & water pump replacement solves the problem.

David

 

do a thorough flush and fill while you've got it apart, good for the system!

there's a step by step PDF in the FAQ sticky at the top of this subsection. Clean off your coolant temp sensor too, unless you can score a new one.

 

After testing both the old & new thermostats, we determined it was the cause of the overheating. New one opened nicely in boiling water, but the old one didn't open at all. I felt much better after determining that.


Thanks, for pointing me to the PDF.
David