This one's so weird that I don't know how to search for an answer. Basic searches didn't turn up anything similar. I've been working on doors to tighten them up and add Dynamat sound proofing (to the inner sheet metal surface). Driver's door went fine. I rolled the passenger window down to get better leverage on the outer door surface while re-seating the door panel posts. Connected the two connectors, installed the panel, buttoned everything up, went to roll the window up and: nuthin'. Neither window would roll up or down, no response whatsoever to the switches. But the driver's window, which had been up, dropped a bit each time I opened the driver's door. So it has power and ground and the motor runs, but both are dead to the switches. Before long, with a few driver's door entries, the driver's window was fully in the door and it's now just as dead as the passenger window. Checked all fuses on both ends of the dash, passenger side of the engine compartment and next to the battery - all good. Battery is new and strong. I also gutted the interior behind the front seats to tighten and sound proof the rear; the only unconnected connectors I could see were the passenger occupancy sensor and a connector way in the back with a blue and a black wire that I don't think was connected to anything in the first place. I reconnected the occupancy sensor just for grins, but no change. I've disconnected and reconnected the battery. It's disconnected now and will remain so overnight, but I sure don't expect the magic fairies to come in and fix anything overnight. Any ideas? I don't really see how the problem is even related to my work, but any time you're working on something and something in the general vicinity fails, you have to suspect your work. It would be a strange coincidence if the windows quit working without any relation to my working on the doors/interior panels. I don't see anything common to both doors on the schematic, but they are equally dead: no click, no response, just dead (other than the incremental drop-on-open of the driver's door).

 

Unplug the window switch pack from the driver door, and then see if the passenger door is then controllable. This will eliminate a short in the driver door switchpack.

Also, make sure no wiring got displaced and caught between the window and window track, or the door check mechanism between the hinges. Both these moving systems can slice and short wires.

 

Thanks, you had it right but I didn't figure it all out till I got the meter out, got the door control module out and got serious. My capacity for stupidity ne'er ceases to amaze me. Actually, it was part panic and part confusion - I'm still cowed by the complexity and sophistication of this machine. The fact that the door-open/window-drop thing sort of worked threw me off (OK, so it's a separate circuit with a separate voltage source). Still, there's little excuse for not working through it in a sensible manner. There was no voltage supply to the window switches. I told one little lie in my original post - there was a 5 amp fuse blown, but I just knew that couldn't have anything to do with window lift motors. Yes, I understand the concept of relays and power transistors ... I just wasn't thinking. Anyway, I replaced that blown fuse, so that should have been the end of that story, eh? Sigh ... foolish boy. So yes, the switch wiring got crimped against something, shorted out the control wire, took out the fuse and took out the replacement fuse until I corrected the problem and replaced the second blown fuse. Just needed to get after it with a meter and some common sense. Honestly, I think I'm over the jitters now. It's just a machine. Potentially a very expensive machine, but basically it's probably pretty reliable and, like anything else, you just need to calmly work your way through any problems that arise. Or, ahem, that you cause ... Thanks again WXKR.