When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I installed the A2D Jag 98 bluetooth module from discount stereo that forum member wynjym sold to me. I am now able to stream from Apple Music on my phone; the audio quality is excellent!
The Alpine premium system really came alive thanks to the higher fidelity of audio from the bluetooth module as compared with the cassette tape to headphone jack adapter I was using. The best of all, no unsightly wires in my cabin.
Applied rust eater to parts of the rear subframe and rear suspension after having been working them with rotating steel brush. Later they will all have fresh black metal paint applied to them. Got all new bushings at home, next step call the work shop and ask them to press out all the old bushings and new ones in
Today's the day to put the new water pump in; thank you Gus for this input:
Originally Posted by Gus
I have in the past reused the metal gasket but know to check it for leaks after the install. That is provided it is not bent or damaged.
Here are the gaskets I have; new paper gasket on top, old metal gasket on the bottom:
Old one has a bit of corrosion but maybe it can be scrubbed away...?
To recap on the situation; the new pump came with only the paper gasket, the old pump was removed from the engine with the metal gasket shown.
I have a tube of Hylomar Blue, my assumption on the correct application would be to apply the Hylomar to both sides of the gasket, and then sandwich the gasket between the pump & engine.
Does anyone else have any opinions on which gasket to use, and if my Hylomar use is correct? Cheers
”.... Does anyone else have any opinions on which gasket to use, and if my Hylomar use is correct? Cheers
When I was working full time in a vintage auto and motorcycle restoration shop, I used a LOT of Hylomar,and was continually amazed at its versatility, and it's ability to seal up old castings and worn threads, It’s really good at sealing troublesome high pressure hydraulic leaks, which is what it was developed to do.
However, there is one product that, for the cooling system at least, stands head and shoulders above anything else on the market, imho, including Hylomar.
It is Permatex thermostat and water pump sealer . It's not cheap, $5.00 more or less for a very small tube. But a thin schemer of it will be great insurance against any type of coolant leak. Like Hylomar, a little goes a long way,
Torn down replaced or refurbished.... My best friend said to tear it all out and let it DYE not die.... Now blow out the candle and make a wish.... Lets walk around and check out the craftsmanship lol Step back and walk it out... Sexy.. Can you say custom-??!! Poke poke not a joke 20x12 with 285-35's stretched.. had to cut the hell out of the car to get em to turn ... Slide to the right Tough stuff... So angry lol And now to get inside and see my two tone dye and detail jobbie- Seats are so comfortable.. Scared people sit here. Shame. Nobody's going to fit back there it looks awesome... My throne awaits.. Grip it and rip it... Now shut the door and pick up your jaw .. your drooling on my suede lmfao....
EnigmaX100R---
OK, water pump replaced, crossover replaced, front hoses replaced. Odd thermostat question:
I've driven the car around a number of times for short trips (running a coolant flush through over a period of days).
So far I've struggled to get the car past 203F; most of the time it's high 180s-mid 190s. Fans have come on only one time.
After a drive, the parts highlighted in red are too hot to touch for even a moment - but the hose highlighted in yellow I can comfortably rest my hand on. I'm assuming this means that the engine hasn't got hot enough yet, thus the thermostat hasn't opened, and thus the fans haven't come on. Am I being concerned about nothing here, or does the thermostat potentially need replacing?
It's less than 3 years old, was replaced when I replaced the shitty plastic thermostat tower with an aluminium one...
A new thermostat sounds .. In order.. do yo uh have a cheap heat gun to take temps wit hbk to confirm.. because I believe your system should be cycling at a temperature lower than one that should be able to burn your hand to the touch of a hose...
for a few bucks and a few minutes of your time ... change the thermostat and see whts up from there three years is definitely long enough to justify a new one imo
Good luck Tom
I took the car out of hibernation today. After 6 months in the deep freeze she fired up on the first crank like
I had just parked it for the night. It was nice to hear the rumbling purr of the kitties Mina exhaust system again.
She whined a bit until the belts warmed up and I got an ABS / stability control error until I drove it around
the block and parked it in the driveway. When I started it up again the warning didn't come back on. I gave
it a good cleaning inside and out and hard wired in the radar detector the daughter gave me for Christmas,
radar detectors are legal here, and finally got a chance to try out the new OBDII tester the son in law got me.
I even got my first "must be a drug dealer" look when I went to the grocery store. Ah, I love this car.
FINALLY finished the front suspension reconditioning. No clunks or rattles, and I never want to do it again. The Boss is just going to have to raise my salary to cover the cost of professionals.
The plague year juggling acts have been particularly busy and involved, but I finally pried loose some time to visit a salvage '97 XK8 that had been sitting in the salvage yard about 45 minutes away since January (essential service here, and I was alone in the yard most of the time). Expected that the drive would be better than the car that had been picked over for four months.
Not so! Engine picked over a bit, but I spent an enjoyable part of the afternoon taking apart the insides including a pristine ashtray mechanism (!) and a pristine driver side window switch (!). Took another set of wood because it was there, and various bits of unbroken and pristine interior and various bits of rubber, which were fantastic. Unbelievably, the driver side door had an unbroken seal. Couldn't get the trunk open, powering the front lug didn't cause the trunk release to work, but I had run out of time anyway.
Boot full of parts I didn't really need, $45. Open top weather, priceless. Cleaned and bagged, astray and all.
FINALLY finished the front suspension reconditioning. No clunks or rattles, and I never want to do it again. The Boss is just going to have to raise my salary to cover the cost of professionals.
I am in the middle of this myself. I just drop the spindles off at an auto machine shop to put in new bearings (timken) this morning. I really think they're OK but I had the whole front part and this will last long beyond my life time so I'm doing it. I had to get creative to get the lower bushings out but it worked. The chisel method resulted in a whacked and cut thumb so new plan developed. The tops arms were a piece of cake.
When I'm done I'll get and alignment and I am also looking forward to the no shakes, rattles or clunks. And I will not do it again either, LOL. TM