I have not found a particularly good way, in general (like a Ford or Jag catalog of these things). We do have a huge clue in the electrical diagrams 2002 and earlier. They generally say what connector it is, at least generically. Some are at places like Rock Auto by function (like the VVT).

Here, for example, it's a connector on the throttle body. Not clear at first if it was the pedal position sensor (on the diagram PPS - 5-WAY SUMITOMO TS090 / BLACK) or the throttle position sensor (on the diagram 4-WAY ECONOSEAL J2T / BLACK). Unfortunately, both of them are 4 way, so something is already wrong with the diagram. Eventually, I found them both and compared with the available connectors (it was the PPS). So, the PPS (PI42) is a Sumitomo TS090 PN 90980-11150 that I found at Ballenger motorsports (https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...oducts_id/3337) and the TPS (PI6) is a TE Connectivity/Amp Econoseal PN 2822636-1 I found at Mouser (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...Y%252BRw%3D%3D).

I can generally find the Amp connectors and Sumitomo connectors, for example. But I have spent quite some time trying to figure out others I needed. For example, I had no idea what 10-Way U.T.A meant. 'The Internet' wasn't much help until I found U.T.A on a relay being sold on ebay UK which clearly had a United Technologies symbol on it. I didn't know that they made car parts, but learn something every day.

It took more time to figure out this was produced in Spain or Portugal, but there was no evidence anyone sold these after 1998 or so, and I couldn't find a current phone number for the plant (but the XJ8 and XK8 all have them throughout their time). It took more time to find out that United Technologies sold this division to Lear around that time. I finally located one of these in a Lear catalog and at a distributor in Europe. So, great, I win?

Nope. The distributor eventually got around to mentioning that the connectors I ordered weren't in stock, and all queries with Lear have been sent into a black hole. So, I went and dragged a wiring harness from a local XK8 in a salvage yard that gave me one slightly used.

Bottom line, a cross ref would be great for this one car with particularly crispy connectors, but I don't have one.

 

I had a crank sensor and throttle body plug that I needed to replace and went to either Auto Zone or Advanced Auto and asked if they had connectors and they said they did. I gave him the make, year and model and he had a list of connectors for my xk8. Give it a try and see if they have what you need. I am sure it will be a lot less than a salvage yard.

 

Thanks for mentioning it, Gus. Autozone, Advance, O'Reilly and Napa (and ebay) are great resources too. I've also seen surprising things on Amazon sometimes. They tend, however, to have more of the bolt-on part pigtails (e.g. MAF, Alternator, etc). The advantage to the salvage yard was one of every connector on that harness (I needed two of them immediately, have needed one later) and sunny fresh air to offset the now overwhelmingly sedentary lifestyle. I saw it to be more like the children see Disney World (when they were young, long ago). Cheaper too, and drinks are free...

 

-

 

I have had great luck find parts at O'Reilly(SP?). Also really good service.

 

I've been chasing leaks recently to pass my final emissions test in NC. Started with a major leak in the intake pipe/full breather, and at the same time I replaced the MAF sensor (Delphi). This did not make it better.

More smoke, and I had small leaks in the part load breather and one of the crispy vacuum lines on the throttle elbow, so I fixed them. Replaced the other vacuum line for good measure. This did not make it better.

Induced one in the cam cover while pulling too vigorously while looking for leaks, fixed it. This did not make it better.

Fixed the one I induced in the dipstick tube while replacing the cam cover. This did not make it better.

So, I stepped back and thought 'These leaks are getting smaller and smaller, and yet, the lean condition remains the same, pegged at the limit". So, I started checking the IDS pinpoint tests for the various sensors which also led exactly nowhere. This did not make it better.

So, today, I finished fixing the last leak I could find, at the brake booster line into the throttle. The o-ring had become a ceramic (see below). I replaced the o-ring and the chinese finger trap, which was broken. This did not make it better.

in frustration, I bathed everything in the vacuum system with intake cleaner to absolutely no response in the fuel trims. There are no leaks in this system. This did not make it better and did not make me better.

In desperation, I sent a minion over to get a new MAF sensor (replaced in September above with a Delphi part). Replaced the new sensor with a new new sensor (Blue Streak). Reset everything. Now, the hermetically sealed system sits at zero fuel trims. This made it better!

D@#n MAF sensor!


Once a rubber o-ring keeping vacuum in the brake booster/throttle. Now a not-very-fine porcelain.

 

Well done....

 

How in the heck do us normal people figure a bad new part? I would have never gone there and of course the car would have been junk.
Thanks.

 

Dale,

I want a minion too. Sure would have helped me out yesterday afternoon while doing the very frustrating Norma connector leak repair job (especially if he has small hands). Did yours come from Minions Are Us?

 

Where can I get a 'Minion'? Amazon??

 

This is a real conundrum, don't know the answer. The MAF numbers appeared to be right on the road from idle to WOT. The resistance tests of the device itself were fine (except one that had nothing to do with the sensor and doesn't appear to harm the function of my other cars), and yet the trims settled to 'wildly off'. And it seems unlikely that many of us have a spare known-good MAF sensor laying about, if I had even thought to try this, since I had a new one.

Rock Auto is taking it back on warranty exchange, so I guess I'll have a new one to test with in the future (after i verify it works on the car), but not very satisfying. I wonder if some of this is interactions among the sensors on that harness causing some variance in response (the one resistance test that 'failed').

 

Something like that. The carrot is that they get to drive a Jag occasionally. For me, they come in two sizes, first is 'small hands and great eyesight', second is 'can lift a truck'. I have a third, 'incredibly long but fragile', at a 'remote site', not available for immediate needs especially with the lockdowns in Oz.

I always wanted 'Pips' to harmonize with anything I say, but they mostly refuse to sing with me regardless of whether it frees up a Jag.

 

in the vintage car world there aren’t many NOS parts around anymore. Everything is made by 3rd party aftermarket suppliers.

In short, bad new aftermarket parts aren’t the last thing suspected, they are the first. The quality has gone downhill so far that many serous collectors often purchase one or two parts cars (if they can be found) along with their restoration project. I’m afraid that’s where we XK owners are headed.l, if we’re not already there.

Z

PS. I’m now dealing with my first bad part that came in a official Jaguar bag. Even though my oil cooler
hoses didn’t leak and weren’t bulging, after reading here of the failures with the hoses I ordered a set of them from Barratt. Now after less than two years later I have a leaky “newish” hose. Seems to be coming from the crimp and not the O-ring.

so I guess even the OEM parts can let us down, but the quality of aftermarket is so much lower across the board that I’m still thankful we can get parts from the original manufacturer.


Z

 

I keep a spare 2006 XK8 Denso MAF sensor that I found on amazon nearly four years ago for around $60. I know at some point it will come in handy if we keep this car long enough....

 

The time has come. Today my last car passed the last NC emissions inspection with only an enjoyable hour put into clearing all of the monitors but one. Next inspection, the week of January 1, 2022, will be safety only. Bonus, she's humming quite nicely now.


Thank god almighty, free at last.

 

Well done, and I sure wish I was in the same position. Jan's 2006 XK8 is due in February. After I fix the current oxygen sensor issue, I have to repeat all those crazy stop-and-go / coasting / idling drive cycles again to clear the readiness monitors. Took me over 200 miles of driving to clear all of them back in October and early November. Sheesh....

 

Hmm, odds you have found some way to part with it by the time the glory of 2027 shows up?

You could always move to Granville or Person County as long as the faint strains of 'Dueling Banjos' doesn't bother you...

 

Today I replaced that little plastic cog piece on my passenger side air-vent that stopped closing on my 2014 XF. Thanks to all the posts and videos now it works. It was very scary removing the silver trim off of the plastic since I didn't want to bend the aluminum taking pulling on all those clips. WHEW !!!

 

Had a rare (for me) 'Engine Stalled' dash message incident earlier this month in the middle of some light traffic. And right when I was looking around the cabin admiring the car appreciating how well it was working. Seriously. But after a handy guy with a Tundra tow strapped me out of the intersection and it sat for a few minutes, it cranked right up... made it home a couple dozen miles. Normally I'm that Tundra guy with a daily Land Cruiser and all my tools in the back helping folks, so wasn't fun to be on the other end. Maybe it was a positive dose of karma back or something.

At any rate, thanks to you good gents and the info I searched for on here, I put together a short list of bullet points of what to check (was throwing P0172 and P0175 codes for running too rich in both banks, running a little rough too). And the following that I did below before calling it a day appeared to do the trick- had more on the list but hopefully won't be necessary now.

- Cleaned MAF sensor, again
- Cleaned throttle body out thoroughly, haven't done this before in my care in the past 8 yrs./30k mi.; wasn't horrible, but some oil at the bottom
- Hard reset by disconnecting battery for several minutes

Put another couple dozen miles on it and runs flawlessly with no codes. Successful minor wrenching day. Still, so excited that I'm tire shopping now. Gotta take the wins when you get them...

 

Well, transponder key from the locksmith was a bust. Cutting it correct was no problem, programming it had him befuddled and he finally gave up.