When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, transponder key from the locksmith was a bust. Cutting it correct was no problem, programming it had him befuddled and he finally gave up.
Feel your pain, have been there myself. There are a couple of approaches here.
1. Programming like the dealer would do if the dealer can do it. An independent Jag mechanic or dealer might be able to do this.
2. Clone the key. The code for the chip used in the post 2000 keys was cracked a while back. So, a copy of the programmed portion of the key can be made that appears to the system to be the same key as the one you have. These clones can be used with no issue. This was the least expensive alternative I could find around here.
Almost all of my keys are clones, the originals apparently disappeared with previous owners. I tried several locksmiths around here, most could cut the key, but only one had actually done the cloning before. So, if you choose 2., you should ask them if they have ever cloned a Jag key before.
Soon I'll be comprehensively replacing the brakes, been accumulating the parts. The 'red car' has 71k so calipers were going to just be 'kits'.
A shameless commercial plug, you need to know MOSS/XK's has stock of reman front calipers for $85.00 ea.
No core charge. Mine are on the way this week...obviously fresh caliper @85...that's pretty compelling IMHO.
Well, transponder key from the locksmith was a bust. Cutting it correct was no problem, programming it had him befuddled and he finally gave up.
Be aware that the system was updated in 2001. The prior years used the older megamos 13 crypto chip, 2001 and later use the megamos 48. These chips are not compatible. I'd say double check the key you got is specifically for the newer revision.
If you have the earlier version by mistake, the newer chips are available separately, and cheap to buy. You could buy a couple, and then ask the locksmith to reprogram again. If it works, then replace the chip in the key handle with the one you paired up.
FWIW, you should be able to see a small plastic plug in the key handle where the chip was inserted. The plug is the same plastic as the handle, so it may be hard to see. If you definitely see nothing, maybe there was no chip to begin with.
In lieu of the usual New Years Eve dinner plans, finished wife's seat cover exchange. Replaced previous owner's vinyl with new leather (topsonline.com). Have been driving around on the driver's seat leather for a few weeks, feels and looks quite a bit better. Passenger seat was done today, much of the time spent fixing/reconstructing broken plastic fittings with copious amounts of epoxy/aluminum applied from the back side. These include the retaining tang on the control module, all of the mechanism covers, one of the top retainer rings for the headrest, the handle escutcheon, the top of the seat control module (inexplicably missing screws, had been tie wrapped).
Wrinkly mid change.
Ready to reinstall in car, copious hog ring installations, firmed up with heat.
Been a while since I been on the site. My 2000 xk8 threw a rod about 2 years ago. Started the exchange of an engine from my donor 99 xk8. Got busy at work and other projects that took priority and put the project on hold.
My son who is a diesel mechanic came to visit for the holidays.
He and I decided to get the car back on the road and I had a couple of 4 day weekends.
I removed the engine, transmission, and the subframe together from underneath the car. I removed the bad engine from the subframe. While everything was out I put new bushings in the subframe. I also replaced the upper shock mounts and installed new shocks.
This is where I was at until the restart last weekend.
Last weekend my son and I got the replacement engine on the subframe and attached the transmission. Today we reinstalled the subframe to the car and got 90% of everything back together.
Will finish in the morning and hopefully she will start with no issues.
Nice to be working on the Jags again and working with my son on cars like we used to before he moved to North Carolina.
In lieu of the usual New Years Eve dinner plans, finished wife's seat cover exchange. Replaced previous owner's vinyl with new leather (topsonline.com). Have been driving around on the driver's seat leather for a few weeks, feels and looks quite a bit better. Passenger seat was done today, much of the time spent fixing/reconstructing broken plastic fittings with copious amounts of epoxy/aluminum applied from the back side. These include the retaining tang on the control module, all of the mechanism covers, one of the top retainer rings for the headrest, the handle escutcheon, the top of the seat control module (inexplicably missing screws, had been tie wrapped).
Wrinkly mid change.
Ready to reinstall in car, copious hog ring installations, firmed up with heat.
Since it was a balmy -6C (21F) today I spent a few hours hard wiring my radar detector and dash cam into the car. The radar detector I wired into the passenger side fuse box, ran the wires up to the base of the A pillar and tucked them in between the dash and windshield mounting the radar detector between the wind shield wipers on the bottom of the wind shield. The dash cam I wired in from the drivers side fuse box and followed frankcs excellent write up running the wires up the inside of the A pillar and between the head liner and wind shield and mounted the dash cam behind the rear view mirror. I bought the hard wire kit for both units that came with piggy back fuse holders and after everything was said and done no wires are visible and you really have to look hard to see the connectors. I won't be able to drive the car for another 4 months or so but at least this is done.
My intermittent airbag light (I never bothered deciphering the error code) became permanent a few weeks ago. Today I decided to unbolt the driver's seat and take a look underneath. I found that the main wiring harness for the seat was contacting one of the seat adjuster screws (it's about a foot long and an inch in diameter) and it was looking all chewed and sorry for itself. Inspecting that harness closely I found that a green wire split. I spliced it together and then protected the splice with heat shrink wrap. I re-routed the harness so that it does not at any point contact anything like that anymore. After putting everything back together and reconnecting the battery, I started up the car. That solved my airbag warning light.
I had a similar problem with the pass. seat air bag (intermittent). Checked all the wiring and found nothing amiss. During one trip to local Jag dealer, they confirmed the wiring harness had problem with ' no solution except replacement' which was not available. After light went full time one, I followed a suggestion by another forum member. A small piece of black tape strategically placed over the light on the gauge, and I not longer am staring at a little yellow distraction. Almost impossible to see.
OT: I recently rented a car in Tampa, and it had that same solution: A small piece of black electrical tape was strategically placed over the check engine light. This makes me appreciate the autocheck or carfax reports at the auction that reveal a rental history.
Finally finished my 'Crazytimes Wood Project' ending with the header.
1. Ordered from Myrtle in July,
2. Arrived with the rest of the dash and door caps in late August.
3. Sent back in late August because, at times, there are differences between US and UK versions (you know, like we drive from different sides of the car and so the passenger airbags might change sides and have different requirements...).
4. 'Negotiated' what would happen next. This was mostly us mailing something like 'what is going to happen next?' into a black hole for Sept, Oct, Nov.
5. Finally called them on the phone in late Nov. They said it was in the Royal Mail, 'posted the previous day', and should arrive sometime, but no tracking.
6. Received a notification from the actual shipping company (not Royal Mail) that it had been shipped several weeks later, and we could track that.
7. Header arrived with 'NO HOLES FOR THE DAMN GARAGE DOOR OPENER'. I believe that is the tone and emphasis with which I announced this to my household and any nearby dead.
8. Seeing the rest of my life flash before me with this minor irritant hanging over my head if I returned it again, I took the header and a spare to a local machinist to drill the oval holes in the appropriate places so that my garage door would open when I arrived at my garage door. He did a great job.
9. Repaired the rest of the inevitably broken plastic and installed.
10. Looks good (see below).
So, now for the free advice. If you want a header from Myrtle, don't.
Twenty minute replacement which, unfortunately, took more than 6 months. Still, looks good.
It looks good, finally. I understand your frustrations. Does anyone know of a supplier for this, other than 'Myrtle'?
I believe it was the forum member in Land of Lakes Fla. who did a great job recovering his. Wonder if he would be interested in doing other member's units???
British Autowood (https://britishautowood.com/) and Madera concepts (Automotive Wood Restoration) have been mentioned. I have no experience with the dash wood with either, but do have a lovely keychain from British Autowood.
The cost was 315 GBP + $50 to have the holes milled by someone skilled in milling oval holes in curved plastic.
I almost certainly would not have bought it alone, but since I had everything else in the cart, it went in too... There also may have been some contribution in how well your header came out and looks.
The header appears to be a dye job based on the machined edges of the garage door control holes. It matches the steering wheel, suggesting, to me, that the steering wheel is also a dye job. Everything else says 'veneer' on the web site, but I did not investigate in depth before installing it. Looks great, though.
The cost for that piece was more than I expected. Feeling pretty good about my DIY version now. I have about 10 bucks in it - but along with many hours of effort.
The cost was 315 GBP + $50 to have the holes milled by someone skilled in milling oval holes in curved plastic.
I almost certainly would not have bought it alone, but since I had everything else in the cart, it went in too... There also may have been some contribution in how well your header came out and looks.
The header appears to be a dye job based on the machined edges of the garage door control holes. It matches the steering wheel, suggesting, to me, that the steering wheel is also a dye job. Everything else says 'veneer' on the web site, but I did not investigate in depth before installing it. Looks great, though.
...
The cost for that piece was more than I expected. Feeling pretty good about my DIY version now. I have about 10 bucks in it - but along with many hours of effort.
Indeed, I eventually considered trading the many many hours I was spending trying to perfect a good finish on old veneer (and re-veneering with walnut was also tried) with just paying for it by working at McDonalds and flipping burgers.
Would have gone with McDonalds, since that would have taken fewer hours, but my wife reminded me that I'm not qualified to flip burgers.
I looked up the company on the internet. Jan 2021. Seems they are not stocking many items. Your top looked so nice I want to do mine. I have '99 Xk8 in tan color. Are there any other companies I should try?
Thanks
Mitch
I looked up the company on the internet. Jan 2021. Seems they are not stocking many items. Your top looked so nice I want to do mine. I have '99 Xk8 in tan color. Are there any other companies I should try?
Thanks
Mitch
www.topsonline.com was excellent for my needs this month. Many options for our X100 models, as well Bentley, Porsche, Mercedes, Jensen Interceptors among others.
12-30-2020, 07:49 PM
