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For the first time in my 5(?) year ownership, cleaned and sealed the soft top with the 303 kit. Hard and anxious work, but it came out decent. However, once everything was dry I could clearly see some green here and there:-(. Will take another Crack soon.
Replaced passenger side low beam with good used bulb out of my stash. Need to order new bulbs.
After all that, took my lovely wife out for a drive, meal and libation!
Solved the Low front end issue. After, fretting coughing up the dough, and not wanting to accept the facts. I placed denial back in the cabinet and bought new front springs as suggested. Big difference in handling and appearance.
While I was at it, replaced the amber bumper lights and side markers, with clear lenses.
Waiting for the Trans kit to arrive, as that will be my next to last task. Front tires and a weekend get away, weekend after the upcoming.
Did the soft top today, cleaned, protected. Wasn’t really on my list, but has been on my mind with the start of rain and wind. So, top is done, fog lamp replaced, rubber at top of rear window in place, I am such an OCD old lady worrier. But each thing gives me more peace of mind and closer to unclenching.
The other day I noticed a small 1”x1/4” torn flap of vinyl(I think)on the driver’s seat side, near parking brake.
Any suggestions on sticking that sucker back down?
I would go with an industrial-grade contact cement. Flexible as well as strong. Apply to both sides, allow to cure for 5 to 10 minutes, then line up both sides correctly, firmly press together, and hold for 30 seconds. Cover with a strip of duct tape for 24 hours to prevent any edge curling....
I would go with an industrial-grade contact cement. Flexible as well as strong. Apply to both sides, allow to cure for 5 to 10 minutes, then line up both sides correctly, firmly press together, and hold for 30 seconds. Cover with a strip of duct tape for 24 hours to prevent any edge curling....
Hi,thanks! To clarify, the vinyl is not hard, but is very thin fabric in the lower part of side seat bolster where a shoe might scrape getting in or out(not that it’s difficult, mind you). Would have to be held down with painters tape maybe , so as to not leave adhesive residue?
We replaced the Right Side Gaiter on Steering Rack yesterday due to a Slip Up when installing new upper mounts a few months ago. Tried to pry the lwr. control arm down to remove the strut/spring assembly. DID NOT WORK. Had to remove the long bolt, upper control arm and success. This job should have been quick and simple, but Murphy got us. The Jam Nut was difficult, then the Tie Rod was rusted thoroughly on the shaft. Had to carefully heat it and finally was able to remove the End, the Gaiter was no problem. New Gaiter had to be warmed with heat gun to allow it to stretch over the large end of Rack. The large single ear band clamp fit nicely and was tightened carefully with pincher pliers. Purchased a proper tool this am and completed the crimp. Checked Amazon and O'Reilley's. Best price was at local O'Reilley's at $12 including tax. We made a Witness Mark on the Rod and another on the Tie Rod End, then took our Calipers, made a measurement, recorded it and noted position of the tie rod end to the rod and wheel/hub. This allowed us to return the alignment to the exact position prior to the removal. The entire ordeal required 3 hours, but was a learning experience.
PS We used anti seize on the threads on re installation.
after 9 years with the Mistress - finally broke down and added a CTEK battery tender - since she is not seeing the normal amount of driving (still work from home)
Good idea Steve, but you still need to get these cars out a couple of times per week for a good romp on the freeway. Keeps 'em much happier and healthier in the long run....
oh yeah - definitely get her out once or twice during the evenings and then usually a good weekend drive, just have noticed some hesitation and dimmer indications when trying to start her, so don't want to be left in a lurch. hopefully tomorrow is nice enough to put her through her paces. Cold and rainy today
Replaced front upper shock mounts with a collaboration from Wayne Tate and Baxtor (Steve) in Australia. I also replaced the right front bearing, What a pain!!!!
I had already replaced all the other bearings but I could not get the nut loose on the right side! I ended up taking it to an indy shop. Turns out I just needed a bigger hammer! The impact wrench I had just didn't have enough juice. The shop ripped that nut off before I even got back in my car! Just had to shake my head and pay the bill. Over all, I have saved a ton of money doing things myself so I don't mind giving back a little.
When I got the car, the original upper mounts were shot, all the ball joints and bushes were toast and the lower shock bush was wasted too. Both fenders got rolled out when ever I would turn into a driveway.
See the below pics showing how bad the last upper mounts just squished out!! I think they were from Welsh but don't hold me to that. My memories are getting hard to hold on to. I really gotta start writing things down!..
Next up, brake light switch just started acting up. Cruise doesn't work, engine failure mode and check rear light signal. Drivers door window isn't going up quite right and outer door handle is getting loose.
Fought and won a quick victory against a P0171 (lean bank 1). Found a loose PCV valve, pulled it up after removing the 2 screws, found and replaced 2 dried up/cracked o-rings. Reset the codes and enjoyed trims going back to low single digits. O-rings from the garage, $0 fix, got to celebrate it when it happens.