Photo of the Boot Fuse & Relay Box looking from Driver (Left) side toward the CD Changer #1 fuse is top right and position descends as they move toward the center of car. Higher # fuses are on the left side nearest the CD Changer. #5 appears empty in pic but has a 30A fuse .

 

Where can i buy a NEW one?

 

I think what folks are getting at replying to the thread is that new/used or otherwise - it may not be what's needed... I wouldnt spring for a replacement just yet unless you have NONE right now. If you have none, I would get a used part. They are pretty solid and not a component I have heard a lot about going bad.

If you don't mind,,, what exactly is the issue you have right now? Besides not having a fuel pump driver/regulator (if indeed you don't)...

 

How can you test one to see if it is good?

 

The car would not run at all without one of these, with a bad one, or - I dare say - with the WRONG one all together... A test is to bypass the fuel pump regulator/module (which I've done) and see what you get.

I also had the valve, the one built INTO the fuel pump assembly (the one super well photographed by a memeber in the post earlier in the thread) go bad. The valve turned out to be seeezed and by a super stroke of luck I ended up with a second one and had it on hand. I could NOT find the valve shopping the world wide web. Didn't even know how to ID it. Anyways,,, symptoms of the seeezed was higher than right pressures when driving and very high pressures at shut down 80-90lbs +... And upon installing the "new" one (I pinched and damaged the Oring (see photo earlier in thread) assembling the "new" valve in the assembly),,, which resulted in a long crank at start up, wouldn't hold pressure well while idling and pressures would drop to 20-30lbs when driving. Up hill, forget about it!!! Blah blah blah
Jus say'n,,,, I think you would do well by giving folks a play by play of what it is,,, OR ISN'T,,, you are experiencing right now.

 

Well, I bought this 2003 XK8 about 2 months ago and I drove it home. I have had trouble with it on and off with long start Cycles. Then it got to the point that it would not start at all .
I got with the previous owner and he said that he had a new fuel pump and pump drive module installed by a mechanic. I called the mechanic that did the work and they warranty their parts and labor for two years. I had the car towed to their shop and he apparently did some tests by jumping past the drive module he was able to start the car and drive it around, but when he shut the engine off it doesn't hold fuel pressure on the fuel rail. He wasn't able to find a new fuel pump drive module for my car, so he ordered one on eBay and put it in the other day. The car still doesn't start. He is wondering if he got a bad fuel pump drive module from eBay.
I am very frustrated at this point because it is a very nice car with very few miles on it, but if you can't drive it and enjoy it why even have it?
Smokey59

 

Smokey'er than most others!

You continue to complain about your Car not running! Several of us have given you different scenarios to try but I'm concerned that you have not tried any of them...Apparently, you have not tried mine as you have not mentioned whether it worked or not.....I guess you think it's too simple! Hope you have a wonderful Day!

Billy Clyde

 

Just real quick. I have a hard time believing that the mechanic put in any old regulator/module. The plug is a very specific shape and design and to have wires/pins corespond, especially with some being a battery 12v and grounds,,, some being wires that deliver millivolts,,, well - it jus don't make sense... It wouldn't fit. Unless it it is a aftermarket SUPREME, and in that case - I dunno.

Dude. Get the 40-50 dollar fuel pump regulator module thing in the link above (if that's what you think you need to do) and plug it in. That part takes minutes and a few bucks. The testing procedure, because it's pulse width modulation (PWM) requires an osilliscope and some care. From memory, there are 6 wires in the connector/harness. One is main ground, two (thin white) are signals to and from the ECU, two are 12v (one the main 12v and the other the voltage to the pump) and the last, the control ground I believe which controls the "switching" turning the pump on and off in milliseconds... I would dig deeper but I'm not sure you would take the suggestions AND, it ain't easy.

Can't you take a DMM or a test light and see if you are getting power to the pump, to the module, do you have a wire diagram?

 

Here's the thing.

 

The thing is, the car is at an Auto Repair Shop. The mechanic suspected that the fuel pump drive module is bad in my car, so he purchased a used one (from eBay) to replace the one that's in the car now. I called him yesterday and ask him how it was going and he said that they received the used fuel pump drive module (from eBay) and installed it, but he thinks it may be bad as well.
The mechanic is also informing me that there are two gray wires in the trunk area near that fuel pump drive module that are not in use, and so he is curious if those belong to something related or not.

To your question about having a wiring diagram...... No I do not.

Smokey59

 

2003 on you can read the fuel pressure over OBD - do you have fuel pressure of ~55psi? That should tell you if you need to look around the fuel pump area or elsewhere.

Ask him to take a picture for you and post it up here.

It's available from member Gus' website:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2003.pdf

 

The 2 wires may be for the isolation relay during shipping & if so must be kept from shorting anywhere but are otherwise unused.

 

That's what I thought as well.

 

Your comment was very interesting, but could you be just a bit more specific about the ?contacts? and/or ?connections? that you tightened and/or dropped solder on ? I am open to trying anything on my "Crank/No start" problem.

 

How did you do that ?

 

hello How did you do that ?

 

Do what?

 

Get to include material from the service manual into your response. I guess I just haven't putzed around enough yet to pick up on all these little abilities that are available.

 

Oh, I see. I post from my phone a lot so I basically take screenshots and edit when needed taking the screen shots from the JAGUAR ED PDF...

The manuals can be taken from the "JagRepair" web site. Wonderful resources there!

 

my car starts and run fine up to 4500 RPM the the engine stays there like if I lift the throttle enough to keep those RPM's no misfire at all, to you think the control module could be the source of the problem? Thanks