What fixed your intermittent ABS/Trac errors?
#21
I got my module back from a rebuild, and the error is still there immediately after turning the ignition on. Sometimes the ABS light comes on first, then the ABS/TRAC error message. Both before the car is moving.
Battery is pretty new but haven't done any testing to it.
Android scan tools gives codes P1637
Battery is pretty new but haven't done any testing to it.
Android scan tools gives codes P1637
Last edited by jagosaurus; 08-30-2013 at 08:03 PM.
#22
I googled P1637 it comes up as possible alternator problem (on a Chevy!) Anywho, try checking battery at idle with volt meter. Somewhere around 14-15 +/- volts should be normal
How old is your battery? Second post suggested getting a new one (great idea)
Another poster has suggested doing a Hard Reset.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ect-faq-74146/
Check ALL ABS connections. I forgot to reconnect one at the back and the light just stays on. Doh!
Check there's enough slack in wires at front wheels at full lock, ie turn steering wheel all the way to left check left front wheel ABS wire to sensor for enough slack. Turn steering wheel all way to right and check right front wheel ABS wire to sensor for enough slack. If you do need more slack, snip off zip ties on control arm, adjust wire and re tie with new zip tie.
Keep us posted, really hope you get this frustrating issue resolved.
How old is your battery? Second post suggested getting a new one (great idea)
Another poster has suggested doing a Hard Reset.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ect-faq-74146/
Check ALL ABS connections. I forgot to reconnect one at the back and the light just stays on. Doh!
Check there's enough slack in wires at front wheels at full lock, ie turn steering wheel all the way to left check left front wheel ABS wire to sensor for enough slack. Turn steering wheel all way to right and check right front wheel ABS wire to sensor for enough slack. If you do need more slack, snip off zip ties on control arm, adjust wire and re tie with new zip tie.
Keep us posted, really hope you get this frustrating issue resolved.
#23
Ok. went through a few things:
- Battery voltage at idle when the ABS light is on = 14.5V (2 year old battery).
- Connection to ground and battery poles tight.
- Slack on both sides fine.
- ABS reset (neg touched to pos).
No difference. Where are ALL ABS connections BTW?
Another clue, usually the round ABS light goes on first when turning the ignition, then the TRAC error message comes on later.
There is also some slight lurching at times where you put the pedal down and there is no response with the ASC light blinking. Removing the ABS module removes the lurch.
"The P1637 code can be a simple fix--or very complicated. It can be a CAN cable problem to the ECM, an ABS sensor or module problem, a ECM problem, a DSC problem or a TCM problem. A Brake stop switch is another notorious cause of ABS lights. Wiring problems can be cut wires, shortages, polarity problems, connector pins bent/shorted out . . . . "
- Battery voltage at idle when the ABS light is on = 14.5V (2 year old battery).
- Connection to ground and battery poles tight.
- Slack on both sides fine.
- ABS reset (neg touched to pos).
No difference. Where are ALL ABS connections BTW?
Another clue, usually the round ABS light goes on first when turning the ignition, then the TRAC error message comes on later.
There is also some slight lurching at times where you put the pedal down and there is no response with the ASC light blinking. Removing the ABS module removes the lurch.
"The P1637 code can be a simple fix--or very complicated. It can be a CAN cable problem to the ECM, an ABS sensor or module problem, a ECM problem, a DSC problem or a TCM problem. A Brake stop switch is another notorious cause of ABS lights. Wiring problems can be cut wires, shortages, polarity problems, connector pins bent/shorted out . . . . "
Last edited by jagosaurus; 09-03-2013 at 05:26 PM.
#24
Hi Jagosaurus
Is there any time where the DSC fault does not show up? If so what do you do that makes the fault show up?
ABS light and CEL both light up at start up and then (usually) go out.
ABS sensor connections at each wheel, two under the hood on inner fender (drivers side more easily visible, passenger side is under the air cleaner) and also at the module itself.
Is there any time where the DSC fault does not show up? If so what do you do that makes the fault show up?
ABS light and CEL both light up at start up and then (usually) go out.
ABS sensor connections at each wheel, two under the hood on inner fender (drivers side more easily visible, passenger side is under the air cleaner) and also at the module itself.
#27
I got my module back from a rebuild, and the error is still there immediately after turning the ignition on. Sometimes the ABS light comes on first, then the ABS/TRAC error message. Both before the car is moving.
Battery is pretty new but haven't done any testing to it.
Android scan tools gives codes P1637
Battery is pretty new but haven't done any testing to it.
Android scan tools gives codes P1637
#28
#31
#32
#33
#34
My ABS module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.
#35
#36
1998 Vanden Plas 45450 miles.
I went through all of the currently listed fixes for these fault lights.
First cleaned the wheel sensors. Checked and cleaned all connections.
Installed 950 cold Cranking amp battery to replace old 750 amp battery.
Did a hard reset. Still got the fault light.
So I removed the ABS Control Module and was going to open the case and check the solder joints. However I could not open it because it was sealed so well. I as doing some research and found a company in California that has a kit that they install with upgraded parts to renew the ABS unit with a 1 year warranty. Found it on EBay by searching "ABS Control Module" for my Jaguar. I do not know if I can give the name here but If it is not censored here is a link https://shop.modulerepairpro.com/contactus.sc
They do most makes and models. Mine cost a little over $60 to ship to them, get the repair and have them ship it back. It plugged right in and the fault lights did not come back on. Junkyard replacement units were $250 with a 30 day warranty so this was a good rescource.
I went through all of the currently listed fixes for these fault lights.
First cleaned the wheel sensors. Checked and cleaned all connections.
Installed 950 cold Cranking amp battery to replace old 750 amp battery.
Did a hard reset. Still got the fault light.
So I removed the ABS Control Module and was going to open the case and check the solder joints. However I could not open it because it was sealed so well. I as doing some research and found a company in California that has a kit that they install with upgraded parts to renew the ABS unit with a 1 year warranty. Found it on EBay by searching "ABS Control Module" for my Jaguar. I do not know if I can give the name here but If it is not censored here is a link https://shop.modulerepairpro.com/contactus.sc
They do most makes and models. Mine cost a little over $60 to ship to them, get the repair and have them ship it back. It plugged right in and the fault lights did not come back on. Junkyard replacement units were $250 with a 30 day warranty so this was a good rescource.
Simple P1637 general lack of CAN communication between the ABS module and the ECM. OK....deleted the codes, checked all the connections and fluids, etc. All came back....EXCEPT THE TRAC/STABILITY warning. ???? Did also get the P1111 code that indicates a complete scan was done. That one went away. Then P1000 popped up after I did a battery disconnect and hard discharge. That tells me I have UNset all the emissions computers and have to start all over again (about 200 more miles with an outdated license sticker).
So....Gino at Module Repair Pros says I need to send him the ECM. $200 plus shipping both ways. Hmmmmmm... My brother and I opened it up and it is immaculate inside. DENSO Made a really impressive control unit. We couldn't find any visual evidence of any component failure....and there are hundreds of resistors, capacitors, transistors, and ICs. So, I'm not sure what he will "find", but I'd like to look for any alternatives to the solution before I spend another $250+.
The BIG question: Did the module repair permanently fix your ABS and idiot light problem? Did you have any recurrence or have to do any more repairs to that system?
Any help is good help,
Ken K.
#37
I know this is an old thread, but this is an ongoing problem for many of us older Jag owners. Fear not. There is a solution if you don't give up:
My ABS module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.
My ABS module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.
Ken
#38
I know this is an old thread, but this is an ongoing problem for many of us older Jag owners. Fear not. There is a solution if you don't give up:
My ABS module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.
My ABS module has been saved by Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA. $100 plus shipping both ways, but it was worth it. I don't know exactly what they did, but everything works now. NO MORE IDIOT LIGHTS. No "WRONG PART INSTALLED" messages. No DTCs. I cleared whatever codes might have been there from before, then plugged everything in and powered up. Great! I drove around and put 34-40 miles on straight and very twisty roads at various speeds. Speedo/ODO works again.
Ken
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