What should I address first?
#1
What should I address first?
Hi Everyone,
I recently joined the jag community by purchasing a 2000 Xk8 at a reasonable price. There are two things that I need to address in the near future: cam tensioners replacement and rear differential replacement. I got a quote for $3,700 for the cam tensioner replacement and $1500 for rear differential. I have the budget for one, but not both right now and was wondering which issue should I address first. I don’t hear any ticking or slapping sounds when turning the ignition and have no indication that the tensioners will fail (although from the forum discussions it could happen at any given moment). Your input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I recently joined the jag community by purchasing a 2000 Xk8 at a reasonable price. There are two things that I need to address in the near future: cam tensioners replacement and rear differential replacement. I got a quote for $3,700 for the cam tensioner replacement and $1500 for rear differential. I have the budget for one, but not both right now and was wondering which issue should I address first. I don’t hear any ticking or slapping sounds when turning the ignition and have no indication that the tensioners will fail (although from the forum discussions it could happen at any given moment). Your input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#2
How about replace the secondary tensioners as a DIY and then do the primaries, guides and chains at a later date? If you are not going to do some of the repairs and maintenance yourself, that jag is going to be expensive.
Also consider the cooling system hoses, thermostat tower/thermostat, and water pump if you have no record of them being addressed.
Also consider the cooling system hoses, thermostat tower/thermostat, and water pump if you have no record of them being addressed.
#3
#4
The following users liked this post:
Wilfus (05-30-2019)
#5
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,172
Received 2,400 Likes
on
1,556 Posts
#6
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: on the road in NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,838
Received 1,686 Likes
on
1,001 Posts
is this the place that quoted you the repair prices ?
Home of Classic Jaguar and Team CJ
they have a pretty good reputation in central Texas for being competent, a little pricey not withstanding. Very close to Temple Texas, just west of Austin on highway 290
Z
Home of Classic Jaguar and Team CJ
they have a pretty good reputation in central Texas for being competent, a little pricey not withstanding. Very close to Temple Texas, just west of Austin on highway 290
Z
#7
Secondary Tensioners are less that $50 for the pair, Valve cover gaskets are $100 or so. Takes less than 3 hours with hand tools. Unless the chains making noise, just do the secondaries.
For a rear diff, it can be removed / reinstalled in about 2 hours in a driveway with a 3 ton Jack/Jack stands and Air tools... while you are there do the rear shocks/spring Isolators (add another hour and $300). Complete rear suspension/differentials can be purchased for $600-$800 from XK8 breakers in DFW.
Your mechanic is obviously trying to buy a boat.
For a rear diff, it can be removed / reinstalled in about 2 hours in a driveway with a 3 ton Jack/Jack stands and Air tools... while you are there do the rear shocks/spring Isolators (add another hour and $300). Complete rear suspension/differentials can be purchased for $600-$800 from XK8 breakers in DFW.
Your mechanic is obviously trying to buy a boat.
Trending Topics
#8
The tensioners... It's a good first adventure into the XK8 and you will have a different relationship with her after you've done the job...
Remove hood "shocks" and tip the hood all the way forward and keep it there with bolts in the holes provided....
Drain coolant.
Pull efans. Then the radiator. Remove the drive (Serp) belt.
Pull harmonic balancer... 22 or 24mm bolt torqued down TIGHT at the very front of the engine (not a lot of fun hardest part of this job),,,, by securing the fly wheel with a pin in the bell hosing or with a strap and handle around the H-balancer its self with strap handle lodged against the water pump hosing... ***Before replacement get a crank seal ring***. You'll see where it goes into the front plate. Cheap and worth it.
Undo the 20 or so (9mm I think) bolts around the front plate and remove... Easy, not bad at all. Careful when re-tightening those as its a steel bolts into fragile 20yr old aluminum thing... My gasket around the front plate was still good.
All your tensioners will be right there in front of you.
The Harmonic is the SUCKIEST part of this job!
Reach into your pocket - you should feel about $3000+ bucks in there. You know her better. You'll be happy - but will have a greasy pocket.
Replacement of the tensioners can be a little fiddly but folks here will walk you threw it. There is a little more to the job,,, details. Like locking the fly wheel and stuff... But folks here got you
Remove hood "shocks" and tip the hood all the way forward and keep it there with bolts in the holes provided....
Drain coolant.
Pull efans. Then the radiator. Remove the drive (Serp) belt.
Pull harmonic balancer... 22 or 24mm bolt torqued down TIGHT at the very front of the engine (not a lot of fun hardest part of this job),,,, by securing the fly wheel with a pin in the bell hosing or with a strap and handle around the H-balancer its self with strap handle lodged against the water pump hosing... ***Before replacement get a crank seal ring***. You'll see where it goes into the front plate. Cheap and worth it.
Undo the 20 or so (9mm I think) bolts around the front plate and remove... Easy, not bad at all. Careful when re-tightening those as its a steel bolts into fragile 20yr old aluminum thing... My gasket around the front plate was still good.
All your tensioners will be right there in front of you.
The Harmonic is the SUCKIEST part of this job!
Reach into your pocket - you should feel about $3000+ bucks in there. You know her better. You'll be happy - but will have a greasy pocket.
Replacement of the tensioners can be a little fiddly but folks here will walk you threw it. There is a little more to the job,,, details. Like locking the fly wheel and stuff... But folks here got you
Last edited by JayJagJay; 05-22-2019 at 07:47 AM.
#9
Secondary tensioners DIY and Rear Diff Oil with anti-knock additive
As you’re on a budget, here are some things to consider.
If you’re not getting the dreaded chain slap noise consider doing the secondary tensioners only DIY. These are cheap parts. To get to them you need to take the cam covers off so you may as well change these gaskets too with spark plug seals and with new rubber bolt washers. Again cheap parts and DIY-able.
You didn’t mention what problems you’re having with the rear diff. For my L322 Range Rover, I had a whine from the diff so changed grease and added an anti-knock additive recommend by Indy mechanic. It worked a treat! Maybe worth trying that before the dreaded big bill!
If you’re not getting the dreaded chain slap noise consider doing the secondary tensioners only DIY. These are cheap parts. To get to them you need to take the cam covers off so you may as well change these gaskets too with spark plug seals and with new rubber bolt washers. Again cheap parts and DIY-able.
You didn’t mention what problems you’re having with the rear diff. For my L322 Range Rover, I had a whine from the diff so changed grease and added an anti-knock additive recommend by Indy mechanic. It worked a treat! Maybe worth trying that before the dreaded big bill!
#10
At the prevailing labor rates, I can see $3,000 or more for the complete timing tensioner job but as many have said, one of the keys to owning these cars is the willingness, and even desire, to do it yourself. Without doing our own work, most of us could not afford our cars.
You can do all of the tensioners and chains for well under $1,000 and 25 hours of work. Probably more like $700 to $800 and 20 hours if you read and follow my thread.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...rchid=12307517
Last edited by stu46h; 05-24-2019 at 07:00 AM.
#11
Removing the harmonic balancer was the toughest part of this job for me and by far the MOST time consuming. I'm not bragging or boasting here,,, but getting to the tensioners and getting everything back together didn't take me anything like 25 hours... Not even close. 6-8 maybe. My first task with my xk8 (thanks to the guidance of the AMAZING guys here) was to replace the DScylinder head. The natural what to do while "in there" was the tensioner thingy... Without the support and guidance of this group I would have never taken the xk8.... Or the XJS,,, for that matter.
The tensioners is a very manageable job if the do'r is relatively comfortable with tools and cars and is willing to come to the group with questions and,,,, will be in a much much better place going forward,,, in a bunch O ways,,, with a deeper understanding of the car...
*MY CURRENT CRISIS* I just sheared off a cam/valve cover bolt on a 1986 Porsche 928... Got myself in a deep pool of hot water... Wish me luck. Thank goodness for Rennlist... Ahhhhhhh,,, machines!
The tensioners is a very manageable job if the do'r is relatively comfortable with tools and cars and is willing to come to the group with questions and,,,, will be in a much much better place going forward,,, in a bunch O ways,,, with a deeper understanding of the car...
*MY CURRENT CRISIS* I just sheared off a cam/valve cover bolt on a 1986 Porsche 928... Got myself in a deep pool of hot water... Wish me luck. Thank goodness for Rennlist... Ahhhhhhh,,, machines!
Last edited by JayJagJay; 05-24-2019 at 07:52 AM.
#14
I went with a complete Timing chain overhaul. Did everything from primary and secondary tensioners, to chains, gaskets, spark plugs, etc. Found an extremely well reviewed and reputable car shop to do the job. Wasn’t cheap, but well worth it for ease of mind.
#15
Do the tensioners and chains first because you can blow the engine if you don't. When I took my timing gear cover off one of the primary guides dropped down on the crank chain gears. I hate to think what would have happened if that had occurred when the engine was running. As pointed out by one of the vetern members the original guides when made of material akin to biscuits.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TXSType
Jaguar Forums Feedback & Suggestion Center
2
02-21-2010 11:46 AM
phattydeluxe
S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 )
17
09-24-2007 10:49 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)