What Would You Do - Front End "Knock"
#1
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Here's what I've got: I replaced the upper shock mounts several months ago, due to their deterioration - it's an '03 with 19K miles. Since then, I've noticed some slop - can hear it more than feel it. Looking at the front end, all bushings seem very tight and clean. But the lower shock bushings' protective boots are split - didn't pay close enough attention to them when I replaced the upper mounts. So, I'm assuming moisture got to them and they are the source of the issue. Didn't notice any noise before replacing; assumption is the softer upper mounts masqueraded any noises, and the new mounts are less forgiving.
Shocks seem fine - again, only 19K miles. Would you replace only the lower bushings, or go for complete shocks? $200 price difference for both sides, so I'm leaning toward only the bushings.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Mickey
Shocks seem fine - again, only 19K miles. Would you replace only the lower bushings, or go for complete shocks? $200 price difference for both sides, so I'm leaning toward only the bushings.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Mickey
#2
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The "standard" answer is to replace the entire shock as a unit unless you have the active suspension setup. The entire XK8 shock is about $100, the bushing/joint alone is maybe $20. It seems like a good saving, but pressing that joint out and them back in is not all the fun it is cracked up to be. I went that route a few months back, and in the end felt I should have gone with new parts instead.
FWIW, clunking is usually attributed to the anti-sway bar bushings. Much cheaper/easier to replace...
FWIW, clunking is usually attributed to the anti-sway bar bushings. Much cheaper/easier to replace...
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1951sms (12-27-2020)
#3
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The "standard" answer is to replace the entire shock as a unit unless you have the active suspension setup. The entire XK8 shock is about $100, the bushing/joint alone is maybe $20. It seems like a good saving, but pressing that joint out and them back in is not all the fun it is cracked up to be. I went that route a few months back, and in the end felt I should have gone with new parts instead.
FWIW, clunking is usually attributed to the anti-sway bar bushings. Much cheaper/easier to replace...
FWIW, clunking is usually attributed to the anti-sway bar bushings. Much cheaper/easier to replace...
Thought about the sway bar bushings, based on some of your earlier posts, but they look fine and I don't notice any out of the ordinary movement. Plus, I never noticed the noise before replacing the upper shock mounts.
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1951sms (12-27-2020)
#5
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Mackey, I think that's the sway bar link. Open the hood, go to driver's side front corner, look down at sway bar as it travels across. See the silver hold down bracket across the bushing that encapsulates the sway bar? When one of those bolts gets loose (2 on each side as I recall) it will make bump noise.
Drove me nuts for a few days when 1 bolt loosened and got lost. Was especially noticeable over bumps at slower speeds.
John
Drove me nuts for a few days when 1 bolt loosened and got lost. Was especially noticeable over bumps at slower speeds.
John
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1951sms (12-27-2020)
#6
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Mackey, I think that's the sway bar link. Open the hood, go to driver's side front corner, look down at sway bar as it travels across. See the silver hold down bracket across the bushing that encapsulates the sway bar? When one of those bolts gets loose (2 on each side as I recall) it will make bump noise.
Drove me nuts for a few days when 1 bolt loosened and got lost. Was especially noticeable over bumps at slower speeds.
John
Drove me nuts for a few days when 1 bolt loosened and got lost. Was especially noticeable over bumps at slower speeds.
John
Thanks,
Mickey
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Johnken (12-22-2020)
#7
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Oh, and I'll add: The clunk/knock seems to be more when the suspension "drops" rather than is compressed. Another thing that makes me suspect the lower bushing, as the suspension is already under pressure from the weight of the car. Does that make sense, or am I tilting at windmills here?
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1951sms (12-27-2020)
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1951sms (12-27-2020)
#9
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Mickey,
The boot on your second picture looks like both mine did. Split with the grease oozing. If there's rust in there, then the bushing is shot. Even if it's still clean it's only a matter of time.
I elected just to replace the bushings at 34K. They are *tight* so you will need either a press, C-clamp or a piece of threaded rod and some beefy nuts & washers to get them out and in.
If you do go the bushing-only route, save one of the old ones. With the centre pushed out, they make a suitable tool for pushing the new ones in. A day in the freezer just before fitting wil help.
The boot on your second picture looks like both mine did. Split with the grease oozing. If there's rust in there, then the bushing is shot. Even if it's still clean it's only a matter of time.
I elected just to replace the bushings at 34K. They are *tight* so you will need either a press, C-clamp or a piece of threaded rod and some beefy nuts & washers to get them out and in.
If you do go the bushing-only route, save one of the old ones. With the centre pushed out, they make a suitable tool for pushing the new ones in. A day in the freezer just before fitting wil help.
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I have replaced a lot of the Suspension lately. Rebuilt the upper bushing. My car thumps/Knocks one time after starting forward or reverse. On rough roads at a low speed. Have thought about replacing the rebuilt upper bushing with the the whole busing asy. What do you think?
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cjd777 (12-30-2020)
#20
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Great work. Glad you got it sorted.
If you can, I recommend finding a shop that offers a lifetime alignment deal for a one time price (which was less than 2x the single alignment cost).
I got one of those and it has paid off well considering how many times I have had the front suspension apart over the 7 years and 70K I have driven this car.
I would not wait too long to address the alignment. Tires on these cars will wear very quickly when not aligned properly.
If you can, I recommend finding a shop that offers a lifetime alignment deal for a one time price (which was less than 2x the single alignment cost).
I got one of those and it has paid off well considering how many times I have had the front suspension apart over the 7 years and 70K I have driven this car.
I would not wait too long to address the alignment. Tires on these cars will wear very quickly when not aligned properly.