WHEEL BEARINGS
#1
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I've done front wheel bearing before, but it's been to many years to remember everything.
What hazards should I look out for if any. If this is the same as any other car it shouldn't be a problem.
My next question is, are the dealer bearings any better than the local auto parts store and do them come
packed from the dealer.
The next question is how tight do tighten the bolt wonce their in, just enough to make it snug or alittle more to feel a drag.
Last question is whats the approximate coast of the forementioned task.
Thank you all.
cb
[IMG]local://upfiles/3658/EF41AD40AE4244D783D36D64386132F2.gif[/IMG]
What hazards should I look out for if any. If this is the same as any other car it shouldn't be a problem.
My next question is, are the dealer bearings any better than the local auto parts store and do them come
packed from the dealer.
The next question is how tight do tighten the bolt wonce their in, just enough to make it snug or alittle more to feel a drag.
Last question is whats the approximate coast of the forementioned task.
Thank you all.
cb
[IMG]local://upfiles/3658/EF41AD40AE4244D783D36D64386132F2.gif[/IMG]
#2
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Then you can remove the locking ring, with the aforementioned tool if you desire, and mount the vertical link in a press. Press the hub from the bearing, remove the snap rings, and press the bearing out of the hub. Hot shot DIY guys can tell you how easy this is. Best wishes
#7
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Hot Shot DIY Guy #1 here:
Idid this very project yesterday. It is pretty easy to pull the upright yourself. .
Thentake it to your Jaguar Independent. He'll remove the ABS nut and R&R the bearing. Total cost labor $100.
Parts from JPLV: Timkin sealed bearings $63 ea.; Circle Clips $10 (04ea. @$2.50)
The most difficult task is removing the ball joints and tie rod ends. I have a scissors-type screwdownball joint remover that pops 'em right off no sweat. I got it from Amazon Tools for $27. This is a must have if you are working an XK8 front end. The shop also needs to have an ABS socket, you cannot jury rig this setup, you need the special tool.
Now if you dont have a good floor jack, jack stands, and a good half inch drive tool set... well then either get some, or pay the mechanics to do this. This is more difficult than changing spark plugs, easier than the tensioners
Idid this very project yesterday. It is pretty easy to pull the upright yourself. .
Thentake it to your Jaguar Independent. He'll remove the ABS nut and R&R the bearing. Total cost labor $100.
Parts from JPLV: Timkin sealed bearings $63 ea.; Circle Clips $10 (04ea. @$2.50)
The most difficult task is removing the ball joints and tie rod ends. I have a scissors-type screwdownball joint remover that pops 'em right off no sweat. I got it from Amazon Tools for $27. This is a must have if you are working an XK8 front end. The shop also needs to have an ABS socket, you cannot jury rig this setup, you need the special tool.
Now if you dont have a good floor jack, jack stands, and a good half inch drive tool set... well then either get some, or pay the mechanics to do this. This is more difficult than changing spark plugs, easier than the tensioners
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#8
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Piece of cake! And then you come across one where the lower ball joint ball pin is siezed into the upright, and you can't separate it without damaging the lower ball joint. Now you have to buy or rig up a spring compressor, order a ball joint and find a guy to press that in too.
You don't need the factory tool for the locking ring, and you can buy either the early or late bearings at your local parts store for about $30 each. The only time I ever needed a replacement snap ring was when I pulled an upright apart to replace a bad bearing, and the previous guy had broken 1/3 of it off and re-used it anyway.
You don't need the factory tool for the locking ring, and you can buy either the early or late bearings at your local parts store for about $30 each. The only time I ever needed a replacement snap ring was when I pulled an upright apart to replace a bad bearing, and the previous guy had broken 1/3 of it off and re-used it anyway.
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Moot point, yours are finished. You would scoff at my caveman technique anyway.
However, someone thought highly enough of my method to republish my direct quote on his DIY website (without attributuion to me, of course). It's a site you've probably been to... if not, maybe one of your librarian buddies can look it up for you.
However, someone thought highly enough of my method to republish my direct quote on his DIY website (without attributuion to me, of course). It's a site you've probably been to... if not, maybe one of your librarian buddies can look it up for you.
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And so far as my lack of compassion as noted on Roadkill:
I spent an hour and a half investigating printed information, inspecting a similar vehicle,and prepairing adetailed report to an owner whose car had quite possibly been incorrectly diagnosed. His response indicated that he had not read, or understood, any of the information I provided. Instead he wrote of his intention to bring the car back to his service facility for the expensive repair they had told him was necessary.
That makes BOTH of us idiots, now doesn't it. He, and others whoregularly get roadkilled, are free to repeat those mistakes as they wish. I don't make the same oneagain.
I spent an hour and a half investigating printed information, inspecting a similar vehicle,and prepairing adetailed report to an owner whose car had quite possibly been incorrectly diagnosed. His response indicated that he had not read, or understood, any of the information I provided. Instead he wrote of his intention to bring the car back to his service facility for the expensive repair they had told him was necessary.
That makes BOTH of us idiots, now doesn't it. He, and others whoregularly get roadkilled, are free to repeat those mistakes as they wish. I don't make the same oneagain.
#14
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well so much for staying on track.......
thank you all for the reply's, i think if special tools are required as well as a press it will be done by the dealer.
can you all give me a estimate on much it would coast. (ball park number).
and secondly whats a good test to tell if the bearings are worn????
my continuing problem is that i don't feel the car handle as well as it should for what it is and the reviews it got and has.
at 70mph theirs a shimmy in the steering wheel, (just the wheel), over that it feels secure.
this morning at 120mph on a slightly uneven road it felt like it had a mind of it's own.
i love the car but i love going fast more.........
tires were road forced balanced and aligned by jag of houston. according to them no worn bushing and front end is tight.
to sum it up it feels like to much power assist in the steering wheel.
thank you all for the reply's, i think if special tools are required as well as a press it will be done by the dealer.
can you all give me a estimate on much it would coast. (ball park number).
and secondly whats a good test to tell if the bearings are worn????
my continuing problem is that i don't feel the car handle as well as it should for what it is and the reviews it got and has.
at 70mph theirs a shimmy in the steering wheel, (just the wheel), over that it feels secure.
this morning at 120mph on a slightly uneven road it felt like it had a mind of it's own.
i love the car but i love going fast more.........
tires were road forced balanced and aligned by jag of houston. according to them no worn bushing and front end is tight.
to sum it up it feels like to much power assist in the steering wheel.
#15
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I would trust Neil. If he says no worn bushings, I would look elsewhere. If you want to do the bearings, just take it back to him. I figure anyone can make a mistake. Jaguar of Houston can do it for a lot less than the dealers.
If you still have a shimmy, look at shock bushings, tie rods, etc. There are quite a few things that could cause this.
If you still have a shimmy, look at shock bushings, tie rods, etc. There are quite a few things that could cause this.
#16
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I had a similar situation as this on the used XK8 just purchased. Wheel vibration and shimmy. I first attempted to perform athe standard troubleshoot techniques. The only postitive indication was a worn right lower ball joint. A couple of techs told me they could find no indication of anyparts causing the vibration and everyone had a different take on things.
However, as I systematically replaced each wear part;the problem gradually diminished.
1. Tires were the first to be changed and they made a big difference
2. Ball joints top and bottom. First just the bottom, thenlater the tops. Replacing theworn bottomrightwas noticiable.
3. Control arm bushings - I replace all. They muffled the vibration somewhat, but did not cure it.
4. Shock absorbers - First I replaced a worn bushing; then both the shocks themselves. Like the control arm bushings, this fix muffled the vibe dramatically.
5. Wheel Bearings - The right front wheel bearing was very dry. You could hear it rotate. The yank the wheel test did not indicate any bad bearings, but after they were replaced almost all of the shimmy was cured.
It was concluded thatthe originalvibration was a combo of three things. Tire imbalance, RF wheel bearing, and RF lower ball joint. However, even after these three items were replaced; there existed enought freeplay in the rest of the wear parts, that replacing them also contributed toreducing the remaining shimmy and shake.
And finally, if you have a convertible, there will always be the cowl shake ever present to remind you that your unibody is also a spring.
BTW If I was going to drive 120 mph, I would replace everything above without question My car had only 65K miles.Before going that fast I would get new tires if they are over five years old.IMHO floating around at over a hundred miles per hour, complaining about a loose front suspension is not sane behavior.
gordo
However, as I systematically replaced each wear part;the problem gradually diminished.
1. Tires were the first to be changed and they made a big difference
2. Ball joints top and bottom. First just the bottom, thenlater the tops. Replacing theworn bottomrightwas noticiable.
3. Control arm bushings - I replace all. They muffled the vibration somewhat, but did not cure it.
4. Shock absorbers - First I replaced a worn bushing; then both the shocks themselves. Like the control arm bushings, this fix muffled the vibe dramatically.
5. Wheel Bearings - The right front wheel bearing was very dry. You could hear it rotate. The yank the wheel test did not indicate any bad bearings, but after they were replaced almost all of the shimmy was cured.
It was concluded thatthe originalvibration was a combo of three things. Tire imbalance, RF wheel bearing, and RF lower ball joint. However, even after these three items were replaced; there existed enought freeplay in the rest of the wear parts, that replacing them also contributed toreducing the remaining shimmy and shake.
And finally, if you have a convertible, there will always be the cowl shake ever present to remind you that your unibody is also a spring.
BTW If I was going to drive 120 mph, I would replace everything above without question My car had only 65K miles.Before going that fast I would get new tires if they are over five years old.IMHO floating around at over a hundred miles per hour, complaining about a loose front suspension is not sane behavior.
gordo
#17
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GORDO,
THANKS FOR YOUR INSIGHT. I AM A CAREFUL DRIVER AND WOULD NOT PUSH IT TO UNSAFE LIMITS.
I HAVE BRAND NEW TIRES THAT HAVE BEEN ROAD FORCE BALANCED, CAR ALIGNED BY JAG DEALER, NEW UPPER STRUTMOUNT,
MISCELLANEOUS BUSHING REPLACED(DON'T KNOW WHICH ONES, IT WAS A FREEBY), STEERING RACK TIGHTENEDAND ASSURRED BY THE DEALER IT'S GOOD TO GO...... AM I JUST OVER SENSITIVE ON BODY FLEX AND WOULD THAT TRANSLATE UP TO STEERING WHEEL. AS AN EXAMPLE I'M USED TO A 88 PONTIAC FIREBIRD (GTA). IT WAS ROCK SOLID WITH THE WS6 SUSPENSION.
I KNOW THESE ARE TWO VERY DIFFERENT CARS, BUT AS I SAID AT 70 THEIR IS A ROTATION BACK AND FORTH IN THE STEERING WHEEL MAYBE A 1/4" BUT ENOUGH TO NOTICE. IT'S GONE AT 80 BUT AT 100 AND OVER THE CAR FEELS LOSS. I DON'T HAVE THE RESOURCES AND TOOLS TO START REPLACING RANDOM PARTS AND BUSHING. THE DEALER SAID IT WAS TIGHT.
IF ANYONE CAN HELP(NOT JUST GUESS) IT WOULD BE GREAT. I WILL TAKE YOUR SUGGESTIONS TO THE DEALER ON MY NEXT OIL CHANGE AND HAVE GO OVER THE CAR AGAIN.
THANKS TO ALL HAVE A BEER ON ME,
CB
[IMG]local://upfiles/3658/69319AE993D746CA859EF9C96F83DDAE.jpg[/IMG]
THANKS FOR YOUR INSIGHT. I AM A CAREFUL DRIVER AND WOULD NOT PUSH IT TO UNSAFE LIMITS.
I HAVE BRAND NEW TIRES THAT HAVE BEEN ROAD FORCE BALANCED, CAR ALIGNED BY JAG DEALER, NEW UPPER STRUTMOUNT,
MISCELLANEOUS BUSHING REPLACED(DON'T KNOW WHICH ONES, IT WAS A FREEBY), STEERING RACK TIGHTENEDAND ASSURRED BY THE DEALER IT'S GOOD TO GO...... AM I JUST OVER SENSITIVE ON BODY FLEX AND WOULD THAT TRANSLATE UP TO STEERING WHEEL. AS AN EXAMPLE I'M USED TO A 88 PONTIAC FIREBIRD (GTA). IT WAS ROCK SOLID WITH THE WS6 SUSPENSION.
I KNOW THESE ARE TWO VERY DIFFERENT CARS, BUT AS I SAID AT 70 THEIR IS A ROTATION BACK AND FORTH IN THE STEERING WHEEL MAYBE A 1/4" BUT ENOUGH TO NOTICE. IT'S GONE AT 80 BUT AT 100 AND OVER THE CAR FEELS LOSS. I DON'T HAVE THE RESOURCES AND TOOLS TO START REPLACING RANDOM PARTS AND BUSHING. THE DEALER SAID IT WAS TIGHT.
IF ANYONE CAN HELP(NOT JUST GUESS) IT WOULD BE GREAT. I WILL TAKE YOUR SUGGESTIONS TO THE DEALER ON MY NEXT OIL CHANGE AND HAVE GO OVER THE CAR AGAIN.
THANKS TO ALL HAVE A BEER ON ME,
CB
[IMG]local://upfiles/3658/69319AE993D746CA859EF9C96F83DDAE.jpg[/IMG]
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