In the down pour of rain the other day I noted that rain was coming in the car. The two rubber seals that run up each side of the windshield, the water is coming the car from UNDER the rubber seal portion that is in the car. How can that be?

 

I had the same thing on my 2004, and replaced the top rubber seal across the windshield header. The seal is all one piece which runs across the entire windshield header and down each pillar. I had previously tried replacing the rubber seal that looks like an "L" that screws to the convertible top easily when the top is open, but that did not fix any leaking problem. After replacement of the windshield header rubber, it hasn't leaked. Replacement takes about 1.5 hours, and the part cost me under $200 from Gaudin last summer.

 

I must have been blind. i did not catch that the header and side ones down the sides of the WS were one pc. It takes 1.5 hours to replace that?????? Is it dry fit or do you put an adhesive on it?

 

Who is Gaudin? I google it and pull up a Ford Dealer?!?!?!?

 

Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com

Gaudin is an internet Jaguar parts dealer, been around for a long time. There prices are fairly competitive with SNG Barrett, although in general SNG is a little less and offers a forum discount.

I just looked at my order from Goudin last year and that part is called a weather strip header panel, and cost me more than I remembered:$370.

Anyhow, it is a dry fit, not glued. There is a slot across the header that the rubber fits into.

Basically, you start by removing the top metal trim plate across the header, there are instructions on the forum on how to do that, fairly simple even without. There is a hidden screw under/inside the rubber on each end, these can be hard to locate initially. Then pop the plastic retainers holding the rubber in place along the pillars etc. and save these for re-use, or have some new ones handy. The old piece will pull easily out of the slot along the header when starting at one end.

Putting the new one on wasn't too bad. I laid it across the header and started attaching the push in plastic fasteners on the inside door hinge area on one side, then up to the header where I used a couple of 3 inch plastic putty knives to push the rubber into the groove that runs all the way across. At the 2 header corners, on the rubber weather strip, there are little "danglers" that need to be aligned and fit into their little slots. If you pull and stretch the rubber in the groove too much or not enough, these won't align. It really isn't a difficult job.

 

Old body mounding trick, spray the gaskets or seals with a silicone lube let it set on the seals over night. Make sure that you take the pressure off the seal. In other words open the top. Mine is daily driver and is out in environment 9 - 10 hours daily. The silicone cause the gasket to swell and get back to the original size. It may take a couple of treatments. Jim

 

I second berlin1977
My car leaked like a sieve when I first got it I went round every seal with this and now do it every few weeks:
it stopped all the small leaks.
(having the doors rehung properly got the big one).
worth a try and might save you $200?
J

 

i just received a header molding but i dont like the way it looks think im going to return it. cost 211.00 from 707 auto parts. i dont have any leaks but my window doesnt close properly cause the rubber moldind has a tear through it and it is poping out some on the door fram causing the window to not slide up , have to close the door by pushing on the window so it closes correctly. think i might look into adjusting the window... had a little work done on the same side as the window problem and they took the door panel off...maby window went out of wack.?