Why is my car eating front wheel bearings...
#1
#2
It may be water ingress, but I can't really answer your question. I had to replace the RH bearing shortly after I purchase my car. When I took it apart I found the nut loose but still retained by the locking device. The inboard section of the bearing was rusty, but the outboard side looked pretty good. Three years later I replaced it again and found the inboard part of the bearing rusty. No problems with the left side.
Mike
Mike
#3
#5
I do not know if there is any truth to this or not, but I was told by my british repair shop (who I am not happy with at the moment...another thread) that the front bearings will likely go out before the rears, and that the OEM bearings just 'melt' from high heat (driving fast, long periods), I don't know if that implies they use plastic or lower grade sleeve, but when I had my rears replaced, the shop used aftermarket bearings that are higher specs.
Is your car lowered? What is the ride height...measured from the center of cap to edge of fenderwell?
Is your car lowered? What is the ride height...measured from the center of cap to edge of fenderwell?
#6
My experience has been that chronic wheel bearing failure results from a few things:
1) incorrect replacement procedures, by far the #1 reason.
2) unrealized accident damage - slightly bent knuckle/hub/spindle
3) replacement wheel of excessive width and/or offset.
4) poor engineering at the OE level - not very common but it exists, usually due to new models built on old platforms (Fiat X1/9, Subaru SVX to name a couple)
1) incorrect replacement procedures, by far the #1 reason.
2) unrealized accident damage - slightly bent knuckle/hub/spindle
3) replacement wheel of excessive width and/or offset.
4) poor engineering at the OE level - not very common but it exists, usually due to new models built on old platforms (Fiat X1/9, Subaru SVX to name a couple)
#7
1) The bearings were replace by a Jag Tech so I don't think its that.
2) No accidents on left side. Right side slid into a curb on ice. Left side re-failed earlier than right side.
3) Stock wheels.
4) ? I have no idea.
My mechanic, who removes the knuckle to be shipped out to the Tech, said there has been an issue with inferior bearings of late. I will find out the source of the bearings and upgrade...
Geez...I dont mind fixing things once...but twice?! On both sides!?? Ugh...
2) No accidents on left side. Right side slid into a curb on ice. Left side re-failed earlier than right side.
3) Stock wheels.
4) ? I have no idea.
My mechanic, who removes the knuckle to be shipped out to the Tech, said there has been an issue with inferior bearings of late. I will find out the source of the bearings and upgrade...
Geez...I dont mind fixing things once...but twice?! On both sides!?? Ugh...
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#8
I feel your pain. I now have replaced my control arm bushings twice in 4 years. That is very frustrating when you have to double your efforts and money. I'd certainly ask for a different wheel bearing manufacturer this time, not necessarily the OEM replacement part, if they allow it.
#9
When the knuckle first comes out, maybe you should examine them to see what brand and numbers are on them. Maybe the remote tech has been substituting with non OEM.
Have you considered have a local machine shop install the bearings? Usually they pickup and dropoff daily at local garages.
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