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I seemed to have what was a common problem, and that is that the windows would not drop on both doors when opening the door from either inside or outside.
This problem persisted even after a drive of about 60 miles and the battery showing 12.9 v..
I have spent hours looking on these forums for solutions to the multiple electrical problems that I have.
From the day I've had the car,(less than a month ago) the central locking did not work.
I replaced the fuse and then only the drivers door would lock, but only after going through the cycling lock/ open problem. I can see and hear the inside door handle closing and opening about three or four times before it finally locks. The passenger door however has to be locked manually from the inside the vehicle.
When the window drop on entry/ exit started I also lost the ability to lock the car with a remote fob again and had to use the key.
I thought it a coincidence that both the drivers and passenger door window drop problem should occur at the same time, so before pulling things apart I tried the battery hard reset described on these forums.
I.e. disconnect the battery fully on both + and - posts. Touch them together and wait 10mins (I still had a reading form the car diconnected form the battery of a few millivolts)
I can you confirm that the battery hard reset solved the problem of the window drop on exit and entry. So if someelse else has this problem. I would suggest this free and easy fix is tryed first.
Unfortunately however it did not fix my central locking problem but now the drivers door does lock after going to the cycling. The passanger door still has to be locked manually.
Right, now omto onto buying some silicon grease to see if that fixes the central locking problem.
iI can only give you advise on the door problems my friend and I had with his wife's car.
As you didn't buy the car new, what has been done inside the door behind the door card can be a crap shoot.
There are several moving arms attached to the locking switch with snapping *****. See where I'm going. They need to be in place. That said, so many things are controlled by a micro switch in the door lock. Not a expensive replacement but difficult to get the arm of the switch in just the right position to hit the cam on the lock at the right time. The drivers side controls some things on both doors but the passenger one is still independent for window up/down operation.
Lots of reads on this, my partner in crime did a nice write up. Jon89, he did eliminate most of the bad words.
Oh, Welcome.
Recently we've seen a rash of microswitches failures on our aging X100s. And Braveheart's symptoms are the same as many have reported caused by bad microswitches on the door latch mechanism.
As the fix isn't too bad, and access is even covered by the eminent Rev Sam (link below)
but with one correction to Rev Sam who accidentally busted a collar connection shown below ( correction I think from GGG ??)
I've been paranoid about microswitches failing in both my Jag , ever since my trunk light/boot open fiasco and J Gate problems, that I have a spare number of Omron D2SW-3L3M microswitches (which are cheap) in my electronics bag of stuff, as I'm pretty sure I'll need it in the near future.
Great pointers,
Thanks guys.
Seeing as it has been a nice sunny day here in Wales. I just took the Jaaaag and my wife for a spin and then we took a short hike for an hour or so.
Before we set off, I did spray a bit of WD40 in the drivers side latch and the interior door handle.
On our return home I locked the passangers door manualy, as usual, and then used the fob to lock the drivers door and it didnt cycle. It locked first time.
I then unlocked it with the fob and it did the cycling 3 or 4 times. I locked it again with the fob and it locks first time.
I repeated this a few times. Same result.
Can the passenger door be unlocked from central locking, not manually? In other words, can you unlock the passenger door using the fob or by unlocking the driver's door from the inside?
The cycling between locked and unlocked over and over tells me the computer isn't getting confirmation that a door has in fact locked or unlocked. There is probably something broken in either the microswitch on the lock module in the door or in the wire going to that microswitch.
Make sure you check ALL the fuses related to door stuff. I believe there are at least two fuses per side, so maybe you replaced the driver's side fuses but forgot the passenger side fuses, or you didn't check more than one fuse on the passenger side.
Hi Volkris,
No the passenger door can only be locked & unlocked manually from inside the car.
Have just been in the car, and whilst sat in the vehicle, manually locking/ unlocking the passenger door also locked and unlocked the drivers door.
Did this several times and then it wouldn't do it any more.
I can hear the mechanisms for both doors, attempting four times but they are not actually locking / unlocking.
Now even the drivers door won't lock with the fob.
I did check ALL fuses yesterday and none were blown, however might have blown since.
I will check them all again tomorrow.
I hate to say it, but I think my next step in troubleshooting would be removing the passenger side lock mechanism to check its microswitches and wires. There are a lot of threads in these forums with lots of pictures and tips for doing it.
It's not the easiest procedure since the module has to be maneuvered around the window and through a tight gap. With practice people can get it in and out in an hour, but the first time might take the better part of a day.
I also hate to suggest this because I'm not positive that the problem would be in there. It's a good bit of grief when I can only say the lock/unlock cycling is very often related to the switches.
Maybe someone else can propose a different explanation first?
Noooooooo ! Haha.
Yes I have been looking at the forums and its a wealth of information. Thanks to those who have taken the time to post thier findings and passing on their wisdom.
It is begining to look like removing the door card etc, as you suggest might be my next step. I'm not convinced that its definatly the micro switches.
My door/ boot warnings all operate as they should.
I don't know if I want to remove the security bracket if I can't get it back on.
We shall see.
There seems to be a few projects that I need to tackle, so I may move on to ones that are annoying me the most and then come back to the central locking.
I don't think it's a huge hardship.
..... but with one correction to Rev Sam who accidentally busted a collar connection shown below ( correction I think from GGG ??) .....
YES - I'll repeat it here as it's relevant.
Rev Sam's otherwise excellent video doesn't include how to disassemble the latch link arrowed in green. Popping the plastic bracket off the latch will break it:
The latch link can be separated with the plastic section remaining on the latch.
1. the black collar secures the metal rod to the plastic bracket
2. slide the black collar DOWN
3. the upper metal rod can then be popped out of the lower plastic bracket without damage
Here it is in the vehicle after separation - easily accessible:
Adjustment isn't critical on re-assembly. Just make sure there is some slack in the lever.
Yeah, there are something like three different microswitches that read different things. Different combinations of the microswitches can give different symptoms.
For example, your door closed microswitch might still be working but the door locked switch is not.
But at least you might be in a better situation than I am: my physical passenger door lock/unlock doesn't work, even though the physical door unlatch does. I can ONLY lock/unlock the door electrically. Some day the electrical part is going to fail, and I won't be able to unlock the door, so I won't be able to open it to access the part to fix. It's a timebomb.
Someday the fuse is going to blow, but I won't be able to open the door to get to the blown fuse needed to open the door
This is curious, I read the excellent responses above expecting to see 2 of our most common answers to this. So if this is redundant, please excuse me.
When my door locks cycle like this, it's a sure bet that the battery is getting a little low. An hour or 2 on the charger and all is fixed. Give it a try.
Whenever I used to read about window drop issues, I'd always start to explore bad micro switch signs and symptoms. Sure enough for the past year or so after I posted a lengthy note about the micro switch, someone smarter than me (probably one of the guys above) would as the simple question: Have you reset the window travel? This fixes the issue in a vast majority of the cases lately. Looks like you just got the car, maybe you didn't realize that the car requires you to reset front doors window travel anytime the battery is disconnected or sometimes when battery gets low.
Sit in car, driver seat, close both doors. Roof closed, rear windows up.
Start engine.
Press and hold front windows down buttons.
continue to hold down for a couple of seconds after they open all the way.
You will hear a click as the thermal circuit breakers cut in, that's long enough.
Press windows open buttons and hold to the same click.
I do the twice whether the manual says once or not.
Anticipating the question: do I need to do this for rear windows? No, I never had a problem by not doing so. Never heard anything about a need to do so here, and I'm sure it would come up if pertinent.
My bet is on the infamous door latch assembly microswitches. Before Wayne (cjd777) and I replaced them in April 2019, the door locks and windows in my wife's 2006 XK8 intermittently did a variety of crazy things. Lubricating the assemblies by squirting silicone spray into them worked for a few months at a time but it was always a temporary fix. Replacing the failing microswitches with new ones finally resolved the issue that my wife put up with for more than 9 months. During that timeframe she was always afraid that she would be trapped in the drivers seat if the locks finally decided to quit working entirely....
As previously mentioned, a number of us have ordered the Omron D2SW-3L3MS from mouser.com. Be sure to order at least two because you may wind up having to replace them in both door latch assemblies....
Yeah, there are something like three different microswitches that read different things. Different combinations of the microswitches can give different symptoms.
For example, your door closed microswitch might still be working but the door locked switch is not.
But at least you might be in a better situation than I am: my physical passenger door lock/unlock doesn't work, even though the physical door unlatch does. I can ONLY lock/unlock the door electrically. Some day the electrical part is going to fail, and I won't be able to unlock the door, so I won't be able to open it to access the part to fix. It's a timebomb.
Someday the fuse is going to blow, but I won't be able to open the door to get to the blown fuse needed to open the door
Ok. Didnt know about the "Different combinations of the microswitches can give different symptoms."
Worth knowing.
Yeah feel for you, with only being able to open the door electically. That does make it more of an urgent issue.
This is curious, I read the excellent responses above expecting to see 2 of our most common answers to this. So if this is redundant, please excuse me.
When my door locks cycle like this, it's a sure bet that the battery is getting a little low. An hour or 2 on the charger and all is fixed. Give it a try.
Whenever I used to read about window drop issues, I'd always start to explore bad micro switch signs and symptoms. Sure enough for the past year or so after I posted a lengthy note about the micro switch, someone smarter than me (probably one of the guys above) would as the simple question: Have you reset the window travel? This fixes the issue in a vast majority of the cases lately. Looks like you just got the car, maybe you didn't realize that the car requires you to reset front doors window travel anytime the battery is disconnected or sometimes when battery gets low.
Sit in car, driver seat, close both doors. Roof closed, rear windows up.
Start engine.
Press and hold front windows down buttons.
continue to hold down for a couple of seconds after they open all the way.
You will hear a click as the thermal circuit breakers cut in, that's long enough.
Press windows open buttons and hold to the same click.
I do the twice whether the manual says once or not.
Anticipating the question: do I need to do this for rear windows? No, I never had a problem by not doing so. Never heard anything about a need to do so here, and I'm sure it would come up if pertinent.
Let us know how it goes.
John
Yes I was aware of the window reset procedure, even before I bought the car, and have done many resets already.
I was salavating at the thought of owning one, whilst watching most of John's "To the Garage" episodes on YT.
Loads of useful info for a newbee.
However, I would rather hear about it twice than not know. Who knows what gems I am still to uncover?
..... I'm going to sign off for now. Have to get my Motorhome sorted for an M.O.T in the morning.
There's confidence. I generally set aside a full day for MoT preparation - not kicking off in the dark the night before.
A few years ago we had a British Moderator living in France (steveinfrance) who delighted in explaining the intricacies of the French equivalent to our MoT - the DRIRE (Directions Régionales de l’Industrie, de la Recherche et de l’Environnement), now replaced by the DREAL. The accepted approach was to put two bottles on wine on the counter on arrival. Not a word was exchanged but the bottles would be whisked away and the appropriate document produced. Anyone in a hurry would take four bottles!
There's confidence. I generally set aside a full day for MoT preparation - not kicking off in the dark the night before.
A few years ago we had a British Moderator living in France (steveinfrance) who delighted in explaining the intricacies of the French equivalent to our MoT - the DRIRE (Directions Régionales de l’Industrie, de la Recherche et de l’Environnement), now replaced by the DREAL. The accepted approach was to put two bottles on wine on the counter on arrival. Not a word was exchanged but the bottles would be whisked away and the appropriate document produced. Anyone in a hurry would take four bottles!
Good luck with the test.
Graham
Thats a great story of the French equivalent of a M.O.T.
I have heard the Egyptian version is to place a fire extinguisher in front of the vehicle. 😁
I did the actual work about a week ago. Replace a headlight alignment bracket.
This was more getting stuff together for the morning.
PS I might pop back over to the van and put 4 bottles in the fridge, just in case. 😁
Not trying to highjack the thread, but since I have owned my xk8 I have had to reset only the passenger window at least once a month. Obviously it depends on whether or not I actually open the door for a passenger or not. Just today I went to the store and went to put something in the passenger seat and noticed that it didn't drop! I had to reach in, put the key in and lower the window before I shut it. I got in started the car, did the reset and it worked fine. I've never had trouble starting the car and it always spins over nicely. So I don't think the battery has ever gone low
Whatever happened to steveinfrance? He was a great resource and is indeed missed here on the forum....
I also wonder what happened to the Canadian moderator "Mikey" who frequented the S-Type forum for years and consistently chastised any member who dared to run synthetic oil instead of conventional oil. It would be interesting to hear what he would say regarding the requirement that my wife's 2015 Lexus RX350 must run only full synthetic 0W20 oil in order to meet the corporate Lexus engine warranty requirements....
02-06-2020, 06:31 AM
window drop on car entry / Exit
