Jon,

Steve is a miss. He was a knowledgeable, active member and brought a lot of fun to our exchanges. Seven years since he posted and four years since his last login. Unfortunately life just got in the way.

Mikey is still here although his last login was three weeks ago. He's probably on his way to Raleigh to sort out the Lexus dealer.

Graham

 

I solved a no central locking issue I was having last weekend. Both actuators were seized... This is probably not a common thing,,, but this car is unique in that she went for an all out swim some years ago then sat, and sat, and sat...

The small motors in the actuators were seized and all that was needed was to give them a little bump. There is an access hole on the back of the actuator (not pictured here) that will give sight to two wheels/gears. One brass, one plastic. The driver and wheel/gear that is connected to the motor is the brass gear. With good light, find gears and with a skinny pick see if you can give it a CAREFUL nudge. I don't know how long yours went undriven (if it did) but they can get kinda stuck. Also, if the person who had it before you NEVER locked the doors,,, well you know what I mean.

After doing this (actually opening the actuators up completely) things came back on line for me. More than once,,, if the lockers and actuators experienced ANY resistance in any of there mechanization,,,, they would go thru the 3, 4 cycle attempt before giving up - door(s) unlocked. The cycling thing is a normal cycle that the doors will go thru if they don't sense that the LOCK command resulted in locked doors. The actuators have a micro switch in them that signals (I think) the door control module and the LSCM... EVERYTHING talks to everything in these cars.

There is another function of communication between the windows, key and door lock and that is to automatically down the windows at key hold in the UNLOCK position from outside with the doors closed... It just might be that in the unCANy confusion of the cars systems around the doors they are getting the idea to down the windows. Count your blessings it's not the windows AND the top, lol

I think YES!!! Door panels off no matter what. Yesterday in fact. It's not a bad job at all. There will be 3 or 4 Phillips screws to remove and a few tugs at the panel. Folks here will assist in getting the locking clasp mechanisms out of the doors once you have access....as well as panels off...when you are reasay...

** WARNING DO NOT WORK with hands IN THE DOOR SHELL/HOLLOW with the battery connected or it will be your hands that are not closing correctly,,,, as well as your doors... Safety First.

 

In the past we had good luck with spraying the door latch with WD40 to free up the linkage. However several had problems with the micro switches in the latch mechanism and the adjustment of one of the links to the latch. Know that the latch has 5 micro switches that the security, body processor and instrument cluster must see a proper sequence of the latch micro switches.

I do have a question do you know if water has entered the trunk? The security module is located under the fuse box on the floorboard of the trunk. The body processor is located behind the glove box. Just as a side note the security and body module are a plug and play with the exception of programming the remotes as long as the numbers match the existing units and software updates on the new units.

If it were me I would first check to see if you had any water ingress in the trunk then as painful as it might be I would pull a door latch and see if it is operating properly and that the switches are working properly.

This is what the door latch looks like JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Window dip issues have been discussed here before and when I had the problem I doubted that the people who suggested I replace the battery were sane, but I did it anyway (the original battery was 14 years old and doing fine but it WAS 14 years old. It served me well). Well, I replaced the battery and the problem disappeared. Since I don't drive the car as often as I used to, sometimes the window dip problem will reappear with the new battery being low. I remove the battery, charge it, and all is well again.
So if the battery is new, charge it. If the battery is old, replace it.
The electronics in modern cars can act funny when the battery isn't performing like new.
My girlfriend has a 2015 Subaru with a remote starter. It had no symptoms of a bad battery but in cold weather the remote start wouldn't work so I replace the original battery and the problem disappeared.
For the Jag, I wouldn't tear the car apart without addressing the battery first. It may save lots of time.

 

I'm sorry... I misunderstood "window drop" thinking it was describing windows that went alllllll the way down.
my bad

 

One way to eliminate the question of the battery is to start the car and check the voltage at the battery and it should read 14.? Volts. With the car running see if your problem still exist and if it does your battery is not the issue.

 

I'm having same problem[s]....Windows dropped 1cm when doors opened but did not move back up when closed. Driver Door Open warning on dash. I ordered two door sensors and replaced the drive door sensor last weekend. No more Driver Door Open warning and both windows acted properly.
After all the resets the passenger door outside handle would not work and was slightly out. Handle would move slightly when pulled up and window will drop 1cm but door won't open.
I just changed the sensor in it and outside handle now works fine. All good!
But new issue is the passenger door does not lock [answer the fob?]. Back at it to try lock resets, etc.
Dementia in the lock modules. Hope it's not contagious.