Thanks Beav just read your post you were right about the rubber pieces in the bottom of the door but took me ages to find where they had come from! Then I couldn't get the long one back in I kept dropping it.
Cheers Al

 

AL- Glad to hear you cured the rattle,,,

I hate that sound... Our Rattles are a little bigger problem here in the warmer Climes... Sometimes you really need to persuade them to quiet down,,, That constant Rattle,,, I can hear it now... It gets so bad I just start shooting till its stops... AAAaaargh





Smoke em up or Bar-B-Que Sounds good,,, How bout them rattlesnake rabbit sausage,,, Now thats sum fine fixings...

 

Hey Al,

Any way you could post a sketch or something to illustrate better what you are describing?

Thanks,

Doug

 

Hi Need some help please. I have the inside of the drivers door exposed, loose in the bottom of the door there are two rubbery "rattle" or guides pieces one 6" other 1"
Looking up from inside to the adjustable guide at the very top there is attached an identical 1" rubber so the loose one might have previosly been replaced and just left in the bottom of the door?
The window when it goes right the way down rattles against the guide if I raise the window so that it nearly protrudes it doen't rattle is there any adjustment to stop the window going down too far?
Any idea where the 6" piece lives?
Good tip for getting the black plastic lining off the inside of the door is a hairdryer on a warm setting (not too hot it makes it more stickey to pull off) Warm the plastic and slowly peel it back came off in one piece.
Thanks Reverend Sam for the great video.

Cheers Al
__________________
Seafrost XKR 2002 coupe

 

HI Here is the link to the photos showing the rubbing strip and tool.
They say a photo is worth a thousand words.

Cheers Al


https://picasaweb.google.com/ALANGAY...MmHvZPR4IWC4gE#

 

Hmmm, I think I understand what you are describing, i've previously found a small rubber strip-clip inside the door, and I do have a slight rattle when the window is down and closed. For now, I just stuck it next to the other one by the latch. I know where to relocate it to now. Thanks for the additional help Al.

 

Hi Doug I have now posted the photos.

Cheers Al

 

Hey Al,

Thanks. I still am not sure what I am looking at but I guess it is the sort of thing that becomes obvious once you open up the door and see it in person. A project for another day when I have a few spare minutes.

Doug

 

Well I guess I will finally have to bite the bullet and find those 10 minutes needed to open up the door. My procrastinating has been because I typically find these "10 minute" projects turn into 3 hour projects.

But now there is some rattling when the window is closed and I go over certain types of rough roads (like the crappy streets you find all over Los Angeles). I have not been able to pinpoint where the rattle is coming from but it sounds like more towards the left rear in the general direction of the left rear quarter window. From experience I know that sounds inside a car can be deceiving in terms of where they are actually originating from but I guess the driver's door is the place to start.

Doug

 

Well I did a test run to see if I could at least remove the door panel. The most difficult part was removing the little plastic plug over the screw in the door handle escutcheon. I did not have a dentist's pic but what worked for me was a very small screwdriver used carefully.

A couple of observations for those doing this. First the screw at the door escutcheon was a torx head so it helps to have some of those bits around. Second, in my case after I removed the screw that holds the window switch pack I saw a hole underneath where another screw should have been but that was gone. I assume someone had previously removed the door panel and forgot to reinstall that screw. There is NO need to do anything with the tweeter cover--that can easily stay in place. Once all the screws were removed the panel pulls off pretty easily if you start at the top right or top left and work your way around and down.

An important bit of information about removing the electrical connection to the courtesy light. When you see these type of plastic connectors with a thin wire going around it your instinct (incorrectly) is to snap off that wire somehow. I had similar metal clip pieces on the fuel injectors of my previous car and wasted a bunch of time and almost did damage by trying to figure out how to pry those off. In fact, the way these often work is to just push in on them and that expands the clamp/clip and allows easy removal of the connector. So whenever you see this type of connector first try pushing the metal clip rather than prying it off. This is definitely the way it works for the courtesy lamp connection.

From the pieces of duct tape holding the inner cardboard to the metal door frame, it confirms that someone was here before. I was short on time and also lacked new duct tape to replace the old pieces once I remove them so I stopped here and put things back together.

At least this "test run" shows that I will quickly be able to remove the door panel the next go-around when I have the time to do more exploring inside the door.

Doug