Window rattles in door cavity when window is down and door closed
#1
Window rattles in door cavity when window is down and door closed
Don't you love that 'New Car' 'Thwump' sound when you close the door showing good fit & finish.
My 2005 XK8 convertible window rattles loudly inside the door cavity when the door is closed (and the window is in the down position)
Here is the problem and solution in the attached video
https://youtu.be/NjnU7IEDuXc
PS I had the door panel/card off to replace a mirror that was torn off by an offending driver 's mirror while I was out for dinner.
Removing the full panel is not necessary for this mod.
PPS Sorry... trouble with YouTube
My 2005 XK8 convertible window rattles loudly inside the door cavity when the door is closed (and the window is in the down position)
Here is the problem and solution in the attached video
https://youtu.be/NjnU7IEDuXc
PS I had the door panel/card off to replace a mirror that was torn off by an offending driver 's mirror while I was out for dinner.
Removing the full panel is not necessary for this mod.
PPS Sorry... trouble with YouTube
Last edited by taylods; 04-20-2019 at 07:50 PM.
The following users liked this post:
DavidYau (04-23-2019)
#3
This solution may indirectly resolve the clunk. But...
If you delve a bit deeper into the door you can find the cause of the sloppy glass.
A couple years ago I found that the remedy was repairing/replacing the felt covered plastic bumpers that are designed to hold the glass steady.
If you delve a bit deeper into the door you can find the cause of the sloppy glass.
A couple years ago I found that the remedy was repairing/replacing the felt covered plastic bumpers that are designed to hold the glass steady.
#5
That's kind of a slick fix. I had a 95 Corvette Coupe and whenever the window was down and I shut the door it sounded like a bunch of marbles in a tin can. My Jaguar isn't quite as bad but the rattling is still annoying to me when I am driving and a a few years ago when it was being serviced for something else, I asked the guy if he could do something about the rattling. He did fix the pads or something inside the door (I was not there to watch) but that helped greatly for a while but now some of the rattling is back. So I have gotten into the habit of rolling the window up maybe 1/2" to that it is "restrained" by the trim strips. But your solution looks pretty simple without needing to actually get into the door and I might try using something similar like thick self-stick velcro pads or self-stick door insulation foam.
Doug
Doug
#6
Thanks. I like your idea about the Velcro, etc. Something I didn't mention is how thoroughly I cleaned the rubber trim prior to the 3M tape to make sure it made a good sticking surface
Let me know how it goes.
Scott
PS I know you read this years ago,
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ets-dig-37326/
but I only found it today, thanks to your connection. It's fantastic! I can't wait to dive back in behind the door panel.
My window is so misalligned at the rear quarter window, that when I open the door, the window isn't sure if the door is open or closed, so cycles quickly up & down the expected 1/2 inch. Very bad for the motor, etc I'm sure.
Let me know how it goes.
Scott
PS I know you read this years ago,
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ets-dig-37326/
but I only found it today, thanks to your connection. It's fantastic! I can't wait to dive back in behind the door panel.
My window is so misalligned at the rear quarter window, that when I open the door, the window isn't sure if the door is open or closed, so cycles quickly up & down the expected 1/2 inch. Very bad for the motor, etc I'm sure.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...unking-222291/
At least one has fallen off of both my cars, all four doors. Three doors have shed the longer buffer, causing the aforementioned and unmistakable 'rattle' or 'thunk'.
I was not able to find replacements that had felt faces or available Jag parts for these. There are plenty of pieces of edge trim with rubber faces in this world, but I elected to refurbish the ones that ended up in the bottom of the door, if needed. Almost all of mine were unharmed. Reinstalled all by closing the 'c' as much as possible after applying contact cement.
Edit: Realized I didn't answer the question, if anyone has better luck than me, the Jag part numbers are GJA1718AA (the big one), GJA1718BA (the little ones).
Last edited by crbass; 10-27-2019 at 10:40 PM.
#11
#12
'Source' for door buffers
I have finally found a good source for the smaller door buffers (GJA1718BA). Background: in my limited experience (4 doors) the big ones still appear to be undamaged, but the small ones occasionally have lost a step (e.g. Rothwell's thread above).
So, the source is....
... S-Types in the junkyard. Around here, there are plenty of S-Types of the XK8 era being parted out. I have only seen one XK8 in the multiple yards I have always used in the nine months that I've owned one. However, '05 and '06 S-Types often have lovely, undamaged larger buffers (GJA1718AA/GJA1718) which are relatively easy to liberate from the doors. If the window is down, from the top after taking a few seconds to remove the sweeps. Window up. push down into the wheel well and take the door card off, take the speaker out (a few minutes) and fish from the door well.
The smaller buffers are the large buffers divided into 6 parts. Use your nearest applicable saw and cut (probably file the edges post cut).
Two S-Types provided my relatively robust collection of small buffers below. One could see this as one small and four large buffers or 25 small buffers (GJA1718) with 24 'on the hoof'.
So, the source is....
... S-Types in the junkyard. Around here, there are plenty of S-Types of the XK8 era being parted out. I have only seen one XK8 in the multiple yards I have always used in the nine months that I've owned one. However, '05 and '06 S-Types often have lovely, undamaged larger buffers (GJA1718AA/GJA1718) which are relatively easy to liberate from the doors. If the window is down, from the top after taking a few seconds to remove the sweeps. Window up. push down into the wheel well and take the door card off, take the speaker out (a few minutes) and fish from the door well.
The smaller buffers are the large buffers divided into 6 parts. Use your nearest applicable saw and cut (probably file the edges post cut).
Two S-Types provided my relatively robust collection of small buffers below. One could see this as one small and four large buffers or 25 small buffers (GJA1718) with 24 'on the hoof'.
#13
https://youtu.be/8Ce0MdJqgWQ
This video should work! Enjoy a quiet door close!
I've had people apologize when they close the door thinking they broke something!
This video should work! Enjoy a quiet door close!
I've had people apologize when they close the door thinking they broke something!
thank you so much!!!
#14
This is the point, the 'glass hold down' is loose because the 'glass hold down' has fallen into the doorwell from where it should be perched near the top of the door. These buffers commonly fall off after decades of use (at least one buffer has fallen from all six of my doors). It is quite straightforward to put them back, if you have them. I suggest some contact cement in addition to cleaning the surface of the door where they go.
Rothwell, above, has showed how to reproduce them, if you don't have them.
I, above, have shown how to use junkyard S-type (widely available around here) buffers to create the smaller ones and replace the larger ones (they are the same).
There are also window adjustment instructions, if you need those for the window to seat properly. Please understand, those will not generally solve the bad 'thunk' problem.
Among many other sources for window adjustment, see the video
Rothwell, above, has showed how to reproduce them, if you don't have them.
I, above, have shown how to use junkyard S-type (widely available around here) buffers to create the smaller ones and replace the larger ones (they are the same).
There are also window adjustment instructions, if you need those for the window to seat properly. Please understand, those will not generally solve the bad 'thunk' problem.
Among many other sources for window adjustment, see the video
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