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Planning to install a connection for my iPhone 5 to my stero. I searched and found several options but the one I'm most interested in I can't find any info on.
I know I saw a photo/diagram to direct wire an input on the CD changer circuit board but can't find it.
Anyone have some info on this they can share?
The reason I want to go this route is I plan to use a apple lighting to HDMI adapter and then convert the HDMI to RCA composite Video and audio. Will be connecting the video to my recent reverse camera mod which will give me album info on my monitor as well as mirroring anything else on my iPhone while playing audio through the stereo.
dibbit, Sounds like you have great experience. From what you've seen let me ask you a question please. Could one hack into the input singals to the AMP (that way this covers radio, tape, and CD) to wire in a high quality equalizer (EQ) in series? Of course the EQ would be in the trunk, so it would be set it and forget it, but I'd sure love to have the tone controls that one would provide. Guess I'm getting tired of wishing there was a way to change the bass /treble controls center frequency and bandwith. I now find myself using the front rear fader to EQ the sound as much as possible depending on volume level. This could make a really nice impact on the sound if you dial it in properly.
dibbit, Sounds like you have great experience. From what you've seen let me ask you a question please. Could one hack into the input singals to the AMP (that way this covers radio, tape, and CD) to wire in a high quality equalizer (EQ) in series? Of course the EQ would be in the trunk, so it would be set it and forget it, but I'd sure love to have the tone controls that one would provide. Guess I'm getting tired of wishing there was a way to change the bass /treble controls center frequency and bandwith. I now find myself using the front rear fader to EQ the sound as much as possible depending on volume level. This could make a really nice impact on the sound if you dial it in properly.
Thanks,
John
I'm sure your 2003 has the same Alpine system as my 2001, but it is easy enough for you to check if you compare the wiring diagrams.
You could certainly connect an equalizer up, but you would need one for the CD and another one for the radio/tape as the CD player connects direct to the amplifier and the head unit has a separate connection.
Its easy enough to splice the wires if you are handy with a soldering iron or use the ready made connector linked to above.
Thanks Dibit. Since the CD volume and tone controls are on the head unit up front, I just assumed it plugs into the radio/head unit and that sends the pre out signal to the amp. I do appreciate the diagram, this is great.
Thanks, I saw that but as you said it's Audio only and frankly for the price if I decide to go audio only I can do as dibbit did and splice in my own mini jack for the iphone output. Not concerned with retaining the CD as all my CD's are in itunes on the iphone.
However I think a simple DPDT switch would allow me to switch back and forth between CD player and iphone anyway.
DPDT (double pole, double throw): A DPDT switch routes two separate circuits, connecting each of two inputs to one of two outputs. A DPDT switch has six terminals: two for the inputs, two for the A outputs, and two for the B outputs.
As Dibbit illustrated just cut the wires going to the circuit board and run both the wires from the AI-Net cable and the circuit board to the switch, connect the AI-Net cable Left and Right channel on the DPDT switch inputs, the mini jack Left and Right on output A and the CD changer output on output B.
The ground can be connected as a common between all wires separately.
This would allow selection as to which audio device signals get fed through the AI-Net cable to the Amp.
Mount the switch and the mini jack in the center console and everything should work.
This is likely the way I'll proceed and will report back with my results when completed. I found that the iphone music screen will not rotate to Landscape so it will not display correctly on my small 3.5" monitor in the car.
If anyone has an early XK8 with the Harmon Karden audio kit - it's even simpler. The CD player is connected to the head unit with a standard DIN connector so I just bought a DIN plug, a DIN socket, a 12v DPDT relay, a small box and a switch. The box and relay are in the boot (trunk) - the relay is permanently connected to ground with the 12v +, and an audio lead fed via the switch in the centre console.
I have actually kept the audio lead (with a jack on the end) loose just behind the centre console so I can have the phone on the passenger seat or rear seat so I can get at it without having to "lift the lid."
Picture shows switch (the little rectangular one) - the aerial off switch (the circular one) and a 5v USB charger socket.
My only problem, and I suspect I'm going to have to live with it, is that I get an "earth loop" if both audio and charger are simultaneously connected to the headphone socket on my phone.
James, dont forget to use a "break before make" switch or you might get some nasty BANGs when switching.
Thanks for the suggestion , had not thought of that. I bought a on- off DPDT today but will take it back and get a on -off- on switch.
DevonDavid, great idea to use a relay instead of a switch, less wire to run. Can pull a positive lead from the lighter socket and ground in the trunk with the relay. That only leaves the mini jack wire and a single lead to the relay from the console to the trunk.. Thanks.
Heck, I might be able to get away without pulling any wire, the now unused NAV wires couple through the console. Think I'll see what I can repurpose.
I read about the ground loop interference while researching in several threads and no one has really solved the problem. Luckily on Maui I'm never driving for more than an hour at best so charging the iPhone on the road will not be an issue.
On mine the switching is done automatically by the T605 Bluetooth adaptor. With no Bluetooth audio playing it automatically uses the CD output. As soon as I press play on the phone it switches to the Bluetooth audio. A very neat solution.
Relays tend to give a distinct bang when changing over, so make sure to turn the volume to zero when you switch.
Or mount one of these in the glovebox, run the cables out to it and you get yourself an equalizer and source selector all in one (complete with 3.5mm jack socket for other audio players):-
Well this turned out to be much easier than expected....
Took apart my CD player and decided not to mess with the wiring inside, opened up the amp and attached wires to the Green, Blue and shield wires coming in on the AI-NET cable coming from the CD player..
On my car I have spare shielded wires from the audio stack in the trunk to the center console as I have a NAV car and converted to triple gauge so the wiring for the NAV system is not used, if you do not have spare wire you will need to run a shielded audio cable from the console to the trunk.
Connected the newly spliced thru blue (left channel), green (right channel) and shield to a stero mini jack and install the jack in the center console.
Now take the cassette out of the CD player or leave the cassett in but remove all CD's. Select CD player on the radio and plug any audio device into the newly installed jack, in my case an iPhone.
You now have music from your audio device through the car stero. To play CD's simply unplug the jack from your audio device and put CD's in the cassett.
Neat solution. Did you take a photo of the nav cable in the centre console by any chance, to help identify it? I assume it runs from where the sat nav is/was to the amp in the boot?
I did something similar but bought an AI net extension cable to hack up, leaving the communication lines in tact and splicing in the RCA audio. It disables the CD (which I never users anyway) but I can always unplug the cable and put it back to stock if need be.
Neat solution. Did you take a photo of the nav cable in the centre console by any chance, to help identify it? I assume it runs from where the sat nav is/was to the amp in the boot?
Pop off the little cover between the seats to the rear of the console, the one where the reverse sensor beeper is. Look on the left side under this cover and you will see a grey 12 pin connector. That's the wiring for the NAV system.
For ground loop problems check out a relatively cheap device called "groud loop isolator". A brand name Monacor is an example of one with good reputation.
The device is plugged on the audio lines where it cuts the galvanic (ground) connection but allows higher frequency ac signal to pass, just like an old fashioned ac transformer.
For ground loop problems check out a relatively cheap device called "groud loop isolator". A brand name Monacor is an example of one with good reputation.
The device is plugged on the audio lines where it cuts the galvanic (ground) connection but allows higher frequency ac signal to pass, just like an old fashioned ac transformer.
Jouko
I think I got lucky, I plugged in the USB charger and played music yesterday and no issues with the ground loop.
I'm using the lighter plug with a USB charger in it. The only thing I can think of is I was very careful to use shielded cable and connect the shield on both ends.
YAY! I'm right at this point with a Parrot mki9200 install and I was stumped as to what wires to splice into from the Audio Line-out wires from the Parrot.
From what I can see on your photo that slightly larger grey cable has the audio lines in it? Do you know which colour is left or right? I need to connect Left + & - and right +&-.
Cheers!
Originally Posted by dibbit
I'm sure your 2003 has the same Alpine system as my 2001, but it is easy enough for you to check if you compare the wiring diagrams.
You could certainly connect an equalizer up, but you would need one for the CD and another one for the radio/tape as the CD player connects direct to the amplifier and the head unit has a separate connection.
Its easy enough to splice the wires if you are handy with a soldering iron or use the ready made connector linked to above.