Won't fire after coil, plug, gasket replacement
#1
Won't fire after coil, plug, gasket replacement
Help!
I got motivated to change my Spark Plugs and ignition coils in my 2000 XK8 (65,000 miles). I was getting a bad ignition coil C and G on my OBD2 scanner. In the process I noticed oil in the spark plug wells, so I decided to change the Cam cover gasket and seals. I did the Right (passenger) side, today and noticed the Variable Valve Timing solenoid connector was broke on the inside of the female connector. I was able to place the connections on the pins of the solenoid. I reinstalled the Air intake and Mass Air Flow Sensor, went to start up the car and nothing. It ran for 2 or3 seconds, then stalled. Now she just cranks and will not fire. I can smell gas. What should I be looking for? I'm bumming.
Thank you,
Eric"erjent" Jordan
I got motivated to change my Spark Plugs and ignition coils in my 2000 XK8 (65,000 miles). I was getting a bad ignition coil C and G on my OBD2 scanner. In the process I noticed oil in the spark plug wells, so I decided to change the Cam cover gasket and seals. I did the Right (passenger) side, today and noticed the Variable Valve Timing solenoid connector was broke on the inside of the female connector. I was able to place the connections on the pins of the solenoid. I reinstalled the Air intake and Mass Air Flow Sensor, went to start up the car and nothing. It ran for 2 or3 seconds, then stalled. Now she just cranks and will not fire. I can smell gas. What should I be looking for? I'm bumming.
Thank you,
Eric"erjent" Jordan
#2
Help!
I got motivated to change my Spark Plugs and ignition coils in my 2000 XK8 (65,000 miles). I was getting a bad ignition coil C and G on my OBD2 scanner. In the process I noticed oil in the spark plug wells, so I decided to change the Cam cover gasket and seals. I did the Right (passenger) side, today and noticed the Variable Valve Timing solenoid connector was broke on the inside of the female connector. I was able to place the connections on the pins of the solenoid. I reinstalled the Air intake and Mass Air Flow Sensor, went to start up the car and nothing. It ran for 2 or3 seconds, then stalled. Now she just cranks and will not fire. I can smell gas. What should I be looking for? I'm bumming.
Thank you,
Eric"erjent" Jordan
I got motivated to change my Spark Plugs and ignition coils in my 2000 XK8 (65,000 miles). I was getting a bad ignition coil C and G on my OBD2 scanner. In the process I noticed oil in the spark plug wells, so I decided to change the Cam cover gasket and seals. I did the Right (passenger) side, today and noticed the Variable Valve Timing solenoid connector was broke on the inside of the female connector. I was able to place the connections on the pins of the solenoid. I reinstalled the Air intake and Mass Air Flow Sensor, went to start up the car and nothing. It ran for 2 or3 seconds, then stalled. Now she just cranks and will not fire. I can smell gas. What should I be looking for? I'm bumming.
Thank you,
Eric"erjent" Jordan
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Don B (12-24-2022)
#3
#6
#7
In your previous post, you mentioned swapping out the instrument cluster. Did it run afterwards or is this the first startup? I hope you saved the old cluster. There may have been nothing wrong with that gauge but a corrupt solder joint may be shorting out. There are posts and a Factory Bulletin on this.
I'm also curious if you checked the plug gap. XK8 spec two different plug gaps, depending on the year so there's no telling what the factory gap was. If you do attempt to check the gap, be very careful as the rare earth metal tips are delicate. Could be a tiny tip on the ground, as well as the electrode.
I'm also curious if you checked the plug gap. XK8 spec two different plug gaps, depending on the year so there's no telling what the factory gap was. If you do attempt to check the gap, be very careful as the rare earth metal tips are delicate. Could be a tiny tip on the ground, as well as the electrode.
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Don B (12-24-2022)
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#8
Thanks for the reply. Yes I have driven it for 10 or 12 miles since swapping the cluster. I checked for the solder issue on the original, it was fine. That problem is the fuel gauge is either E or 3/4 of the way around (way past full).
While thinking on this new problem, It ran for 2 or 3 seconds then stalled. Just cranks after that. I'm wondering if I may have blown a fuse somewhere. Checking that route next.
While thinking on this new problem, It ran for 2 or 3 seconds then stalled. Just cranks after that. I'm wondering if I may have blown a fuse somewhere. Checking that route next.
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Don B (12-24-2022)
#9
Have you looked at this for bore wash
Personally I would try the foot to floor, crank 20 seconds, wait 20 seconds crank for 20s with foot to floor, and do this a third time but then while cranking lift your foot off the pedal slowly and with luck it will splutter into life. That said I have never done or needed to do it.
Personally I would try the foot to floor, crank 20 seconds, wait 20 seconds crank for 20s with foot to floor, and do this a third time but then while cranking lift your foot off the pedal slowly and with luck it will splutter into life. That said I have never done or needed to do it.
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Don B (12-24-2022)
#10
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