Well, I'm making some progress. I bought a fuel pressure gage and determined that the fuel pump is not working. I checked the fuel pump relay and it was putting power to the pump. Therefore the fuel pump is bad.

Bought fuel pump and the screen at Auto Zone for $120, plus filter for $10. I have attempted to remove the tank with great difficulty. I have everything on the tank disconnected except the fuel lines entering the bottom of the tank. I found about where the lines enter the tank looking from underneath the car. But I cannot see any actual access to the fittings. The lines go under the heat shield that is above the differential and it doesn't look possible to remove this heat shield, at least not easily. Perhaps you must drop the differential down, but what a job that would be.

So I attempted to the get access to the fuel pump by trying the pull the tank out enough to get at the top (both the fuel level sensor and pump are accessed from the round fitting on the top of the tank). I read a post from someone that this could be done. I have managed to disconnect the two electrical connectors and the three gas lines but I haven't tried to remove the access plate yet. But it doesn't look good due to limited clearance on the top of the tank. Also I'm concerned about pulling too hard on the tank with the fuel lines still connected.

At this point I would welcome any suggestions.

Chuckben

 

Another area that I have no experience in but I understand a tool is available to remove the lines from underneath.

 

Chuckben,I have disconnected the fuel line,you don't have to remove the heat sheild,you will not be able to see the disconnects,take your time and feel where the fuel lines go into the tank above the axel,then put the otc fuel line disconnect on the line and push it and try and pull the fuel line from the tank,it a one handed job but it can be done.It is worth your while to remove the tank and then you can see the wiring,the pumps and replace them with ease.

Putting the line back on is a piece of cake once you know where they are.If you try to pull the tank out without removing the line you can pinch the fuel lines and then you have one more job to do,plus you still have to disconnect the fuel lines.The techs on the forum will advise the same I think.Plus you will wish you had purchased a better pump after all that work then the Airtex from Autozone for 120.00 for an 80.00 generic replacement.
Good luck!!

 

FYI Hope this helps

 

Not trying to be rude but a Autozone Pump in your Jag?

 

I suggest looking at Welsh Enterprises, they have fuel pumps with Jag parts numbers for this car for $95. I do not know if they are actually Jag OEM, but you can ask. They have many good parts deals for Jags.

 

Well, I finally jot the fuel pump replaced. I want to thank everyone for the help. My biggest problem was disconnecting the two fuel lines from the bottom of the tank. After some time I found that you had to reach over the differential from the front side of it. The entry point for the lines is on the rear tank wall at the bottom. If you try real hard you can see the two lines. I was able to reach over the differential with two hands to access the two lines. You need to fit the disconnect tool over a line and press it toward the tank to release the line (it will "click"). With both lines disconnected the tank can be removed. I bought a set of plastic fuel line removal tools at Autozone for $10. The worked pretty good. You have to select the correct size and press it over the line. This is tricky but possible. I also dropped one over the rear of the differential and had a heck of a time finding it. Also, be very careful not to cut the wiring harness with the sharp edges on the sides of the fuel tank. It was a challenge jockeying the tank around to get it out of the trunk.

I did try to access the top of the tank by not removing the two fuel lines but this didn't work. I think on some XK8s the top is different from mine. That is they have a lower profile top piece.

Once the tank was out changing the pump was a straightforward job. I removed the pump and the level gage assembly so everything could come out. One issue was that the replacement pump did not come with the mounting bracket so I had to use the one from the old pump. Not too big of a job. I tested the old pump by applying power to it and it didn't work (it did draw current because it sparked when removing power. I may take it apart to see what failed. It really bothers me to see the pump fail by just sitting idle for a few months.
If anyone is interested I took a bunch of photos of the project. Let me know and I can get them to you. (I'm not sure of the best way to put them on this forum. Maybe I will create a pdf file.)
Again, thanks for the help!
Chuckben

 

nice followup chuckben! thanks

 

After completing the task of replacing a failed fuel pump I have created a PFD document with notes and photos. If anyone wants a copy send me an email (chuckben@sbcglobal.net). (It looks as if I can't attach it to this post.)

Chuck Bennett

 

Nice job Chuck. Maybe you could send the pictures to h20boy, and he can create a sticky for others to use!

 

hi guys,i had to replace my fuel pump last fall.for the life of me i could not locate these lines.i was on my lift,and still too no avail,i also thought maybe drop the dif.but then thought thats insane!i had the tank loose and was able to move it back a few inches.you guys might think i'm crazy but being a 99 coupe i took out the back seat and speaker and changed it from the top.

 

When I got my car back from the shop that replaced my Fuel Pumps, there was a smudge on the inside or the rear window. It's very possible that they did the same thing!!

 

i retired from ford motor[line rat].and we were always shown the quickest way to do things,so thats usually how i do it.i'm in the process of repainting my daughters 72 dodge dart and had her hand sanding the door jambs.i told her i enjoyed doing this work for her but didn"t want to die with it.moral of this story,do it as well but don"t take forever..

 

Thanks Chuck for your post. I'll contact you via email for the photos. They will be a big help.

Jim
BlueJagBoy

 

Does anyone know if this is possible to do on a 02XK8 conv ?

 

Does anyone know if this is possible with a 02 XK8 convertible ?
thanks,
Jim

 

I just brought my 04 XKR out of hiding for the winter here in Winnipeg and had the "won't start problem". I was looking through this thread for an answer, got it fixed. Heres what I found:
1) the battery was dead, put charger on (left on while testing) brought voltage up enough to crank over (seemed to be normal cranking speed), engine would not fire at all.
2) sprayed starting fluid and later gasoline into throttle body, did nothing.
3) listned for fuel pump, too many other things making noise to really check
4) checked for fuel press on fuel rail, depressed schrader valve, nothing
Staring to get sick now with the prospect of replacing fuel pump
5) battery was low again, so brought over another and "jumped" the batteries, voila! it fired up right away
6) tested in car battery 12.6 volt, tried starting again on car battery alone, turned over, but wouldn't start.
7) replaced car battery, started right up.

I think these Jags are as sensitive to voltage as your home computer. It had enough power to crank, but not enough to start the fuel pump. I have read here where low voltage can bring on "check engine" etc.

Anyway, I hope your "no start" can be fixed as easily as mine.

 

Without wanting to rub salt into Chuckben's wounds, I am always very wary of winter storage. My garage is heated and ventillated, but I always try to take my car out once a week for a 5-10 mile run even in the depths of winter. It's a PITA trying to avoid the rain/ice/salt, etc. but I think it's worth the inconvenience.

I hope the damage isn't too costly

 

On the 2003+ cars it is on the front left.


You absolutely have to do what Gus says and check for spark and fuel first. It makes no sense to spring for new fuel pumps without checking for fuel pressure first. I literally only takes about 2 minutes.

*Take the plastic cover off of the top of the engine by turning those 4 screws 1/4 turn anti-clockwise.
*Locate the fuel rails. They are the silvery tubes on either side of the engine under that cover.
*Look for the shrader valve. It looks just like a tire valve.
*Cover the valve with a rag, then use a screwdriver to push in the pin, just like you're letting air out of a tire. Do this while someone is cranking the engine. If fuel sprays out then you have fuel pressure and you don't need to spend hundreds of dollars on fuel pumps. Have a fire extinguisher handy. There's only an 8.43% chance you'll catch yourself on fire, but have it there just in case.


As far as replacing the pumps goes, there's no way it should cost $650 in labor. Last week I removed the fuel tank, took out the pump, reinstalled the pump, reinstalled the fuel tank, and closed everything up in less than an hour (It was actually closer to 45 minutes). Of course, I had already done it three other times that day, so I kinda had the procedure figured out. The first time I did it it took me about 3 or 4 hours, but I was also making a movie of it, so a good portion of that time I was dicking with the camera. I didn't have a lift. I was doing this on my back laying on the garage floor.

This video shows how to do it. I know I've seen the pumps on eBay for about $100 each. Save yourself $1200 and do it yourself.

By the way, that piece of PVC is the best tool EVER! I forget which member suggested it, but he's the smartest guy on the forum. I can't imagine trying to free the fuel line with the normal little tool you get at the auto parts store. There's just no way to get your hand up in there.

Jaguar XK8 Fuel Pump Replacement - YouTube

 

That'll be our Avos he's brilliant ,

Nik