Wood Dash Cleaning and Care XK8
#1
Wood Dash Cleaning and Care XK8
What, if anything, should I do to clean, polish, & care for the lacquered(?) wood panels on my XK8's dash?
Also I do have a 2-3 cracks in the finish on the 3 gauge center dash panel. From reading what posts I could find, it sounds like there's really nothing to be done to care for or to minimize the appearance of the cracks other than eventually replacing or refinishing the wooden dash bits.
Is that the general consensus? Or should I be doing something to keep them from getting worse?
Also I do have a 2-3 cracks in the finish on the 3 gauge center dash panel. From reading what posts I could find, it sounds like there's really nothing to be done to care for or to minimize the appearance of the cracks other than eventually replacing or refinishing the wooden dash bits.
Is that the general consensus? Or should I be doing something to keep them from getting worse?
#2
I never felt like we ever answered the big question: what kind of finish is used, same answer for all X100s?
This is important for answering your question because Lacquer actually disolves into previous coats. Varnish or polyurethane does not. If this is lacquer we could use the same technique used on guitar finishes (well documented on line in many places). In a nutshell that would be: clean, apply, let dry, level, wet sand, polish.
I believe that non lacquer finishes require removal and reapplication. Which isn't too difficult with commercialy available agents.
I am a woodworker, kills me to say it , but varnish is much easier to use (drys faster, levels better) than lacquer. If you are going to level then Polish get yourself proper wet sanding sand paper. Google micro mesh brand sandpaper. It is sold in abrasive increments from 600 grit to 12,000 grit. 12,000 grit feels like loose-leaf paper but it can almost bring the surface mirror like. Some have shortened the polishing cycle using less sand paper more meguires car polish incremental abrasive polishes, I can only speak to old fashioned techniques that I'd use on fine furniture.
I've seen really incredible improvement just cleaning my wood, then using really good wax (no abrasives allowed, pure wax compounds only). It gets a "wow" response, but that's only normal maintenance.
I do not think there is anything you can do to "nourish" the wood. That's all marketing BS. just protect the finish with some wax, clean off any dirt that can scratch it.
Just take some diluted ammonia, clean the surface. Dry with soft towell, wax. You might be surprised. If it needs a light polish, car polishes can work, just start with the lightest abrasive. Ask if you want recommendations.
John
This is important for answering your question because Lacquer actually disolves into previous coats. Varnish or polyurethane does not. If this is lacquer we could use the same technique used on guitar finishes (well documented on line in many places). In a nutshell that would be: clean, apply, let dry, level, wet sand, polish.
I believe that non lacquer finishes require removal and reapplication. Which isn't too difficult with commercialy available agents.
I am a woodworker, kills me to say it , but varnish is much easier to use (drys faster, levels better) than lacquer. If you are going to level then Polish get yourself proper wet sanding sand paper. Google micro mesh brand sandpaper. It is sold in abrasive increments from 600 grit to 12,000 grit. 12,000 grit feels like loose-leaf paper but it can almost bring the surface mirror like. Some have shortened the polishing cycle using less sand paper more meguires car polish incremental abrasive polishes, I can only speak to old fashioned techniques that I'd use on fine furniture.
I've seen really incredible improvement just cleaning my wood, then using really good wax (no abrasives allowed, pure wax compounds only). It gets a "wow" response, but that's only normal maintenance.
I do not think there is anything you can do to "nourish" the wood. That's all marketing BS. just protect the finish with some wax, clean off any dirt that can scratch it.
Just take some diluted ammonia, clean the surface. Dry with soft towell, wax. You might be surprised. If it needs a light polish, car polishes can work, just start with the lightest abrasive. Ask if you want recommendations.
John
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Red (02-13-2017)
#3
Red, I read your post below about leather. Couldn't help but notice the wood in your photo. Same car?
If so , I wonder who but you will notice the cracks. You have an amazing burl. I'd just gently clean it then wax it. BTW, I have really spectacular results with Zymol Atlantique wax for this.
If so , I wonder who but you will notice the cracks. You have an amazing burl. I'd just gently clean it then wax it. BTW, I have really spectacular results with Zymol Atlantique wax for this.
#4
That's actually Marsden's dash in the other post and it's quite beautiful. I like mine too, but it's not nearly as beautifully burled.
Here's a pic of my dash, you can see one of my cracks about 3/4" left of the oil gauge running up to the vent.
And yes, I don't recall ever seeing a post with a definitive answer about what kind of finish was for used x100s either.
Johnken, is there any particular brand or kind of non-abrasive wax that you like?
Here's a pic of my dash, you can see one of my cracks about 3/4" left of the oil gauge running up to the vent.
And yes, I don't recall ever seeing a post with a definitive answer about what kind of finish was for used x100s either.
Johnken, is there any particular brand or kind of non-abrasive wax that you like?
Last edited by Red; 02-13-2017 at 01:20 PM.
#5
Red, Your dash is great too. I just went down and looked. McGuires sells polishing compounds that are rated for abrasiveness. I have refinished a lacquer guitar with the #9 swirl remover followed by #7 glaze. I tell you this in case you need to polish out super small scratches someday. As I recall, another of our members polished out their wood within the last year or so, may have been Jandreu:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-panel-161023/
To your specific question: I use Zymol brand, Atlantique or Vintage wax. Don't have a heart attack when you look up the prices I think a bottle of it costs a few thousand dollars! - they do sell "sampler" kits that contain smaller quantities, 1 each of 3 different super high end waxes including some combo of these for $200. I've gotten great mileage out of them. If you have the choice, I recommend Atlantique.
Please let us know how it comes out.
John
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-panel-161023/
To your specific question: I use Zymol brand, Atlantique or Vintage wax. Don't have a heart attack when you look up the prices I think a bottle of it costs a few thousand dollars! - they do sell "sampler" kits that contain smaller quantities, 1 each of 3 different super high end waxes including some combo of these for $200. I've gotten great mileage out of them. If you have the choice, I recommend Atlantique.
Please let us know how it comes out.
John
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Red (02-13-2017)
#6
I did something that others have probably already done but I'll post it anyway: My 1999 XJ8 had severe cracking, with clouding, on the door trim. I have previously tried stripping and refinishing on other Jags that used the polyester finish with little success. Last night I combined one capful each of a two part polyester finish product with about 5 capfuls of lacquer thinner and stirred it up until it was uniform and clear. Keeping the piece level, I brushed the mixture onto the finish and spent about 10 minutes teasing it into the cracks. I then sprayed the whole piece with lacquer thinner (hand spray bottle) and left it to sit overnight. In the morning the surface was tacky, bumpy, and mottled with dry spots where the mixture had not adhered to the veneer. I sprayed it again with a coat of thinner, then soaked a rag in thinner and wiped it down. The tacky finish came right off, leaving all my cracked and cloudy parts filled with polyester. While I know they're still there, the cracks now look like part of the burl, the cloudiness is gone, and the piece has regained its original shine. Very pleased. I probably haven't invented anything here but I can say it works pretty well. Cheers,
Zaphod
Zaphod
#7
Zaphod, interesting. Let me double check my read. You removed the finish with this mixture and benefited by allowing it to then fill the cracks.
What did you or will you refinish the peice with?
When you say door trim do you mean the trim around the window switch?
Thanks for posting this, I can't wait to hear more.
John
What did you or will you refinish the peice with?
When you say door trim do you mean the trim around the window switch?
Thanks for posting this, I can't wait to hear more.
John
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#8
#9
No I didn't refinish the piece at all, that's what pleased me. I simply diluted the polyester finish alot with probably more than 5 capfuls of lacquer thinner and brushed it over the cracked original finish, teased it around in the cracks with my brush, then sprayed the whole thing with thinner and let it soak overnight. In the morning I wiped it down with a thinner soaked rag and voila!
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Red (02-28-2017)
#10
Phavas, nice Job! When you say polyester finish, was that the same as polyurethane? Many of us have wondered what Jaguar uses to finish the wood panels, perhaps you know for sure?
I asked about polyester because I have never heard of it and would like to learn more. That plus we've all seen the same item called something different in the USA and Europe, and if you're like me some times spelling auto correct slips a similar word in before you can catch it.
Thanks John
I asked about polyester because I have never heard of it and would like to learn more. That plus we've all seen the same item called something different in the USA and Europe, and if you're like me some times spelling auto correct slips a similar word in before you can catch it.
Thanks John
#11
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Red (02-28-2017)
#13
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Matthew Chidester (02-26-2017)
#15
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Matthew Chidester (02-26-2017)
#16
Phavas, nice Job! When you say polyester finish, was that the same as polyurethane? Many of us have wondered what Jaguar uses to finish the wood panels, perhaps you know for sure?
I asked about polyester because I have never heard of it and would like to learn more. That plus we've all seen the same item called something different in the USA and Europe, and if you're like me some times spelling auto correct slips a similar word in before you can catch it.
Thanks John
I asked about polyester because I have never heard of it and would like to learn more. That plus we've all seen the same item called something different in the USA and Europe, and if you're like me some times spelling auto correct slips a similar word in before you can catch it.
Thanks John
Cheers,
Zaphod
Last edited by Phavas; 02-27-2017 at 12:40 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Johnken (02-27-2017)