What a transformation with 2 new fuel pumps.
The acceleration is unbelievable compared to the old pumps, but now when i accelerate hard the cd jumps, NEVER HAD THIS HAPPEN BEFORE.
Took it out for the first time today and every hard acceleration made the cd jump.
The acceleration was smooth but very fast.
I think the pump change has sorted out some other problems iv been having for a long time now,
Bank 2 misfire's , excess emission's , cat system efficiency below threshold, iv changed plugs,coil pack's,cleaned maf sensor and problem was still there within 5 mile of driving.
Well been out today and covered 81 mile's with no fault code's. ( 3 number stop/starts so may not of completed cycle since battery removed for a week)
Bank 2 LTFT is 7 at highest, Bank 1 LTFT is 3.4 at highest, (so not to bad just like before the fuel pump change).
Any thoughts appreciated.

 

I'm curious...did your car run okay before the pump change, just sluggish acceleration? I have a recently purchased 2000XKR with 37K miles on it, and now that I have been able to drive my car, although it starts and runs fine, doesn't seem to perform where I would expect it to. No codes, just seems sluggish and since I'm a new first time owner, I'm not exactly sure what to expect...But I can say my wife's 2011 Audi A6 3.0 sedan wouldn't break a sweat out running the XKR..

 

2KXKR- There’s a sticky thread where Rev Sam’s youtube video shows how to adjust the throttle cable. Zero dollar fix to try first

 

Your XKR shouldn't feel sluggish, it should feel a lot lighter than its 1700Kg kerb weight. You can check that both fuel pumps are working by following the procedure here:-

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...el-pump-85882/

 

Hi, Well i wouldn't say it was sluggish in acceleration, and it ran ok,
But i think my pump problem just slowly got worse without me noticing it.

Then i checked my pumps by jumping them and found the secondary pump was dead,and the primary pump was only putting out 39 psi (should be 44 psi, i think)
Now both new pumps when jumped put out 44 psi
If i were you id check both pumps are working and putting out the correct psi because your xkr should be fast, (really fast)
Now when i give it hard acceleration i can see the traction control light flashing for a second or so,
Also try a hard reset because if its been driven slowly in the past this is how it will react (something about the car learning owners driving style)
By the way i always have my xkr in sports mode and the pump change has made a big difference,

Hope you get this sluggish problem sorted, any questions just ask, (My self and other members im sure will help the best we can)

 

DavidYau- Thanks for the tip..I watched the video and checked the adjustment with my scan tool before I touched anything, and according to my scanner, with the pedal fully depressed and engaging the kick down switch, scan tool show 100%, so seems okay to me, but great place to start, thanks again!

 

That's what I was thinking...not overly impressive. I checked my fuel pumps one a time, they both appear to be working. I also checked the individual pressures from each pump and found the primary at idle is 39-40 PSI, and the secondary is 38 PSI at idle. seems both pumps are good or ? Thanks for your help!

 

Are you using sport mode? I believe it starts in 2nd gear if not in sport mode.

 

I will add one factor into the mix..my car has a smaller SC pulley installed...The 1.5lb option....I though those increased performance at least on the low end, but do these engines run better with the stock pulleys?

 

RJ237-I believe I have the sport mode engaged, which according to the owners manual when sport mode is on, the red light on the switch is ON...seems counter intuitive, is that correct? I recently purchased this car and see in the service records the sport mode switch was changed multiple times...doesn't say why. How do you verify its working? I'm wondering if the previous shop working on it was convinced the switch was bad and changed it multiple times trying to "fix" sport mode.

 

the car will definitely start out in second gear without the sport mode. you can count the gear changes by the rpm drop. Also the rpm shift point is MUCH higher in the sport mode. So there's NO mistaking it when it's on . Someone more knowledgeable than me might chine in with the exact shift point RPM numbers sport mode versus "normal" driving.

Sports mode ON = button up and red light on, as in RED lights in your rear view mirror. ".... officer sir, I was just testing to see if the "sport mode" was working properly. Surely that is understandable, Officer, sir...... no it won't happen again......"

 

You can use the J gate in 2nd position (gear),
When in sports mode (red light on) it will start in 1st gear and change up to 2nd gear and stay there, easy to notice the change,

When not in sports mode it will start in 2nd gear and stay there with no gear change,

When i checked my fuel psi it was with engine off and just jumped the pumps for for a few seconds and had a fuel gauge plugged in to the fuel rail valve,
When i get time i will do the psi test with the engine running and let you know the results.

 

0 to 60 times......

Audi V6 ......7.4
Audi V8.......6.0
XK8 ............6.4
XKR............5.2

Definitely something up if your wife's Audi can out run your XKR
Iv some thoughts on your pulley upgrade but off to work now 6am in the uk.

 

Ok as promised fuel psi with engine running (194F-204F)
tick over 650 rpm....39psi
at.........1500 rpm.....38psi
at.........2000 rpm.....38psi
at.........2500 rpm.....38psi

When the throttle is pushed and released quickly it jumps to 44psi then drops to 36psi then settles at 39psi
When put in to drive with foot on the brake it go's to 40psi
When engine switched off it go's to 42psi
Leak down is very minimal after shutdown.

Lets assume you have no fault code's turn up in the next 100 mile's or so and you'r sport button is working ok, the pulley up grade can put extra strain on
supercharger seals so check them out, (with out pulley up grade they wont last for ever)
Also if the supercharger "bypass valve vacuum actuator" is not working and stuck open you will have a very slow XKR
Hope this helps. (i don;t know if blown seals or bad bypass would through a code or not)

 

Disconnect the battery and leave it overnight, or just remove the positive terminal and touch the negative terminal with it (never been brave enough to try that myself). Reason? The car needs to 're-learn' your driving style again. Plus it also re-sets a lot of other stuff. I think it takes 5? engine starts and a certain mileage before the car relearns your driving habits. Google it

 

I would like to thank everybody who has given me some great suggestions of things to try for my concern..I haven't really found anything a miss, so one last item that was suggested was to check the fuel trims. I hooked up my scan tool and looked at the readings at idle, and with the cruise locked at 70. Engine was fully up to operating temperature. I would greatly appreciate anybody's input and meaning of these values, I labeled the pictures for the two driving conditions Thanks

Highway speed

Highway speed

Idle

Idle
again to EVERBODY who has helped me with questions!

 

Most engines have a valve to check fuel pressure (kind of like tire or AC valve). If your engine does, diagnosing fuel pump is very easy. Fuel pressure gauge is about $30 from ebay. I remember using duct tape to attach gauge to windshield, so
I can drive and see pressure. Sometimes live data shows fuel pressure.

 

I checked fuel PSI on both primary and secondary pumps...40 PSI on primary, 38 on secondary, at idle.

 

HI, your LTFT's are high on both bank 1+2 highway speed,
On idle the LTFT's are ok, the closer to 0.0 the better at all times.
It's in closed loop so it's using the o2 sensor's for the fuel trims and both banks are much the same Idle/Highway so the cause for the high+ trims is something common to both banks before the A/F split. (im no expert and they say a little knowledge can be dangerous)

STFT's will jump +/- fast but single numbers are best.

 

At the hiway speed a lot of fuel is being added, the high LT could be air leaks. have you checked all the possible places ? IIRC, the two numbers added together should be under 10 to be considered within tolerances.

Z