Wrong Coolant
#1
Wrong Coolant
Dealer flushed my system last September and replaced it with
Dex Cool (orange coolant). My car is VIN 034918. Early 1997 models were fitted with blue green coolant up to VIN 001245. From VIN 001246 to 042634 yellow DOW S542 coolant was fitted (change every 2 years). From VIN042635 WSS M97B44-D long life coolant was fitted.
Dex Cool (orange coolant) was used but my car calls for yellow DOW S542 coolant. So my question is now that my car is in storage and will not be started until April can I just leave it alone until then when I will completely flush it again and ensure they use yellow DOW S542 coolant? Will I do any damage by leaving it there for a few months?
Dex Cool (orange coolant). My car is VIN 034918. Early 1997 models were fitted with blue green coolant up to VIN 001245. From VIN 001246 to 042634 yellow DOW S542 coolant was fitted (change every 2 years). From VIN042635 WSS M97B44-D long life coolant was fitted.
Dex Cool (orange coolant) was used but my car calls for yellow DOW S542 coolant. So my question is now that my car is in storage and will not be started until April can I just leave it alone until then when I will completely flush it again and ensure they use yellow DOW S542 coolant? Will I do any damage by leaving it there for a few months?
#2
There was a big discussion on this topic a couple of weeks ago. Here's that thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...hlight=coolant It's very informative.
But to answer your question, I'd say change it as soon as possible.
But to answer your question, I'd say change it as soon as possible.
#3
#4
#5
My armchair anecdotal experience suggests that your risk is minimal. The Dextron coolant issues seem to be based on extended use factors in aging coolant systems... not something a likely to affect a new coolant fill in a well maintained vehicle in storage for a few more months.
IMO these coolant threads are way overblown in terms of fear-based pseudo scientific opinions. The only subject matter more hotly contested is the proverbial ATF discussions that go on ad infinitum. If you use hard water in your system, then you need to beware of phosphates, but most of us already nullify that concern by using distilled water.
When you get a chance I would pull the thermostat, open the heater core and flush the system with a garden hose. Then rinse and fill with distilled water and whatever coolant you intend to use. If you are truly paranoid, you might want to drain that mix and refill a second time; but I would simply get in and drive.
I have consistently used the cheap yellow Autozone coolant in all my cars for as long as I can remember. The only concession to homogenized coolant usage is that I drain and refill refill about every 18 mos. To date there has not been ANY evidence that this maintenance strategy has caused any problems whatsoever.
BTW my maintenance schedule for important items like brake fluid flush and oil changes are very strict and followed religiously... But as far as I am concerned , if you change the fluid out every 12-18 months; arguing about the correct coolant is slightly more important than debating the advantages of using nitrogen in the tires.
IMO these coolant threads are way overblown in terms of fear-based pseudo scientific opinions. The only subject matter more hotly contested is the proverbial ATF discussions that go on ad infinitum. If you use hard water in your system, then you need to beware of phosphates, but most of us already nullify that concern by using distilled water.
When you get a chance I would pull the thermostat, open the heater core and flush the system with a garden hose. Then rinse and fill with distilled water and whatever coolant you intend to use. If you are truly paranoid, you might want to drain that mix and refill a second time; but I would simply get in and drive.
I have consistently used the cheap yellow Autozone coolant in all my cars for as long as I can remember. The only concession to homogenized coolant usage is that I drain and refill refill about every 18 mos. To date there has not been ANY evidence that this maintenance strategy has caused any problems whatsoever.
BTW my maintenance schedule for important items like brake fluid flush and oil changes are very strict and followed religiously... But as far as I am concerned , if you change the fluid out every 12-18 months; arguing about the correct coolant is slightly more important than debating the advantages of using nitrogen in the tires.
Last edited by GordoCatCar; 01-17-2011 at 09:52 PM.
#6
#7
Did not want to leave it any longer so going to flush and fill with correct coolant. I am worried about the yellow DOW S542 coolant mixing with the dexcool to create a sludge as I am confident the dealer just did a drain and re-fill. My plan is to run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM until temperature gauge reads in the center mark and the electric radiator fans starts operating. Then switch on climate control to max fan and max temperature and run for about 10 more minutes. I will do this twice with distilled water. However I understand that even with the drain plug removed on the radiator there is sill coolant remaining in the engine. My question is how can I be sure to get all of the dexcool out of my engine?
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#8
Did not want to leave it any longer so going to flush and fill with correct coolant. I am worried about the yellow DOW S542 coolant mixing with the dexcool to create a sludge as I am confident the dealer just did a drain and re-fill. My plan is to run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM until temperature gauge reads in the center mark and the electric radiator fans starts operating. Then switch on climate control to max fan and max temperature and run for about 10 more minutes. I will do this twice with distilled water. However I understand that even with the drain plug removed on the radiator there is sill coolant remaining in the engine. My question is how can I be sure to get all of the dexcool out of my engine?
#9
Another aspect of coolant
I learned this recently from an article in Popular Mechanics. In addition to providing thermal protection, antifreeze contains properties that inhibit the reactions between differing metals on modern engine systems - it is an insulator of sorts.
You can test it's efficacy at this with a simple hand held volt meter. In my case it tested good for anti-freeze properties but marginal for insulation.
With the + lead in the coolant and the - lead grounded, look for a reading less than 0.7 or so. Readings over 0.7 indicate that a change is due.
You can test it's efficacy at this with a simple hand held volt meter. In my case it tested good for anti-freeze properties but marginal for insulation.
With the + lead in the coolant and the - lead grounded, look for a reading less than 0.7 or so. Readings over 0.7 indicate that a change is due.
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#10
#11
Did not want to leave it any longer so going to flush and fill with correct coolant. I am worried about the yellow DOW S542 coolant mixing with the dexcool to create a sludge as I am confident the dealer just did a drain and re-fill. My plan is to run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM until temperature gauge reads in the center mark and the electric radiator fans starts operating. Then switch on climate control to max fan and max temperature and run for about 10 more minutes. I will do this twice with distilled water. However I understand that even with the drain plug removed on the radiator there is sill coolant remaining in the engine. My question is how can I be sure to get all of the dexcool out of my engine?
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