xk8 1998 tensioner replacement
#21
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The torque values for the cam caps and tensioners are stated in my thread I gave you earlier. If you didn't read it then here it is again. I do not understand your reluctance to replacing the tensiners. Lifting the cam is no problem. I didn't even bother to get the flats level and still had no problem. I just loosened each bolt a little at a time. Would have been better to turn engine to get them flat however. What is your concern?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-how-52653/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-how-52653/
#22
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Hi all,
sometimes things can get a little confusing, In my opinion, and it is my opinion, the zip tie method should only be used if the timing is perfect. To check this the cam flats have to be in alignment. (this will reveal if the chains have stretched or not).
Camshafts can break under load. by rotating the camshafts to the spot were every valve is closed, then zip tie the sprocket,, when the cam lobs are unbolted the cam wont role, twist, or end up being jammed.(there is no good reason to try to remove a camshaft under the pressure of valves forcing the camshaft up,).
when new tensioners are installed they need priming before the car is started. if this is not done the chain can jump causing significant damage. prior to starting work on the car, remove the fuel relay(this is in the boot)
when you have changed both tensioners, prior to putting the fuel relay back in, turn the engine over several times until the tensioners fill with oil. only then reinstall the fuel relay.
finally if you put a socket on the crank to rotate the engine, dont forget to remove it.
If you have new tensioners, dont hesitate on fitting them. whist you might think the old tensioners will be ok, they wont. so many owners end up with a broken engine that can cost thousands to repair. Im new to the forum and ive seen no end of threads referring to tensioners breaking causing untold damage.
Best wishes
Stephen
sometimes things can get a little confusing, In my opinion, and it is my opinion, the zip tie method should only be used if the timing is perfect. To check this the cam flats have to be in alignment. (this will reveal if the chains have stretched or not).
Camshafts can break under load. by rotating the camshafts to the spot were every valve is closed, then zip tie the sprocket,, when the cam lobs are unbolted the cam wont role, twist, or end up being jammed.(there is no good reason to try to remove a camshaft under the pressure of valves forcing the camshaft up,).
when new tensioners are installed they need priming before the car is started. if this is not done the chain can jump causing significant damage. prior to starting work on the car, remove the fuel relay(this is in the boot)
when you have changed both tensioners, prior to putting the fuel relay back in, turn the engine over several times until the tensioners fill with oil. only then reinstall the fuel relay.
finally if you put a socket on the crank to rotate the engine, dont forget to remove it.
If you have new tensioners, dont hesitate on fitting them. whist you might think the old tensioners will be ok, they wont. so many owners end up with a broken engine that can cost thousands to repair. Im new to the forum and ive seen no end of threads referring to tensioners breaking causing untold damage.
Best wishes
Stephen
#23
#26
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Torque- There are two numbers given. I have been told the first is for old bolts, second for new.
Tensioner 10- 14 Nm
Cam Caps 9- 11 Nm
Cam Cover 9- 11 Nm Start at center, work toward ends
Ignition Coil 4- 6 Nm
Prime by turning engine over with fuel pump relay removed until oil pressure light goes out.
RJ_________________
97XK8 86Kmi
Tensioner 10- 14 Nm
Cam Caps 9- 11 Nm
Cam Cover 9- 11 Nm Start at center, work toward ends
Ignition Coil 4- 6 Nm
Prime by turning engine over with fuel pump relay removed until oil pressure light goes out.
RJ_________________
97XK8 86Kmi
#27
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Thankyou my torque is in pounds can u convert please ,this is my update so far .I've got both new ones in left side is tightened up but not torqued,seem to go well flats were good.the other side different story.the flats were out about hafl a cm .and the end of cam nearest sprocket won't sit down flush but the rest does .I also notice I had to take pin out of tensioner to get it in any advice please
#28
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#30
#31
#34
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#35
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Hello latest update .all done very please with my self ,overal took all day but took my time ,is say bout 3 to four hours plenty time to do it.I wasn't please with both my torque renches being to big.I recomend get a small one .in the end I didn't torque tensioner or cam caps with the rench as I felt it was over tightening it so I guessed it but all was nice n tight but not to tight,I cleaned as I went.New tensioners went in easy once I lifted cams but I must admit I was bit nervous and slightly shaky messing with engine,l then went for an hours drive as a treat.very glad I did it.old tensioner still had life in them but did have tiny damage ware u can't see it.they look very brittle,definately doable at home and quite enjoyed it.the flats were spot on both sides ,touch wood all ok now .a big thankyou for everyone's help it really did help me a lot .thanks all
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