Lovely car pics - and the colour certainly suits your moody mencing setting in Norway.

CAN is a short abbreviation for "Control Area Network", where signals are sent through the CAN bus network wiring sequentially allowing multiple use by different modules. It's common nowadays in cars as it greatly reduces the wiring needed. As an example our wheel speed sensors feeds data to the CAN bus network and is read by multiple modules ie by the dash Instrument Cluster to display speed, read by the ECM to control the engine, read by the Transmission Control Module to decide on gear changes, and also by the ABS module for anti-lock braking.

JTIS is just short for "Jaguar Technician Information System" and is available here on this forum. Someone gave a link in a previous post. Also are some great separate guides and someone shared the Electrical Guide for your Model Year too.

I appreciate all the information above is a lot to take in, but in my post #19, I show all the modules involved in the Jag start. I would just start at the battery, and work along checking each wire and module electrical connections. You'll get very good at fixing electrical gremlins at the end of your chosen Jag project.

 

Today we sparayed every fuse and relay with electric spary hand sparyed it in the ignition key and we finally got ignition and crank from the enigine which is the best feeling!
but we wonder why the fuel pump is always on. Normally when you put on ignition the fuel pump starts up, but when we connect the battery its on all the time. Is this normal with these cars or is it something else.
we don’t know if there is fuel in the car.

 

Elias,

Keep going. You're slowly bringing this 99 XK8 convertible back from the dead.

Your right in that the fuel pump should only activate when the key is on. You have a fault if the pump is on regardless, whenever the battery is connected.
As this is a recovery project car, I might hazard a guess that it's a bad case of electrical gremlins or that a previous owner tried to get the car running by shorting the pump directly, therefore look for a bypass from the controlled start in the sequence in the schematic above.

The good news is that the pump sounds like it's working. Have put clean fuel in the car and are you getting fuel pressure at the rail? Easy to check. There's a Schrader valve on the RHS fuel rail and if you briefly depress its centre stork, it should spurt fuel out violently (best to use a towel cover).

 

On sunday we wanted to see if there was any ignition coming form the sparkplugs we couldn’t reach for it so we gave up on that for the day. We sprayed with Electric spray on a box where all the sparkplugs connected to. Suddenly as i was packing up my father put the ignition on and the car finally started! It was running like a clock. No wierd sounds or anything! Gearbox is working perfectly to! Now all thats left is some fuses to fix for the car. We are trying to get the roof down manually but on cylinder on the left side is complety stuck

 

Did you push on the top hinges to “unlock” the top?

Check out this thread esp. my post 5 for the figure of where to push on the hinge mechanism... courtesy of guru moderator GGG

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...roblem-228745/

 

 

In the trunk UNDER the fuses, at the base of is box that holds the fuses, is a grey box... Security module... Pull it out...
Under each seat is a control module for the seats... OPEN any and all modules you can find and post some pictures of what they look like inside. Check if these lowest of low laying control modules looks contaminated, fried, crusty and dirty on the inside. If so,,, we are going to start having to have a whole other conversation about what to do... Fresh water damage is ok (if ok is what you'd call it),,, salt water damage - you could have a real journey on your hands.

UNTIL YOU KNOW STOP RUNNING VOLTAGE THRU SYSTEMS... You could be making bad worse.

 

The BPM Body Processing Module is behind the glovebox... If you remove the under panel on the passengers side (RH) you will see it tucked up in there. It's fairly easy to remove. 2 10mm bolts... Then pull down. You might have to remove one other small thing to get it out of there... Like HVAC venting to the left... About the panel,,, I might be thinking of an XJS (sorry I have XJS on the mind) but it's easy to get to...

Remove it. Open it fully,,, and see what going in inside it. Send some photos.

 

The pump,,, on initial key turn,,, should run for like 2seconds to "prime" the system and shut off... Then, restart after the car is running...

I understand and appreciate that you guys are excited about having the car started and running BUT (and there is always a but) you need to find out what was giving the CAN system a seizure,,, and was blowing the fuses...

In the USA when a car is flooded,,, auctioneers will work like heck to clean them up and sell them. I'm not saying that y'all don't know the difference,,, but it's an important thing to know.

​​​​​

 

There are at least 3 fuses feeding power to the BPM:

F5 5A Driver side fascia fusebox:- logic
F7 15A Driver side fascia fusebox:- lighting, solenoids...
F7 20A Passenger side fascia fusebox:- steering column motors

They're not all single-purpose, so a blown one will give errors in more than one area.

Which one(s) are you having issues with?

 

This sounds great. The electric seat mover is dead and we cannot remove them.



Here are some of the messages i get from the diagnose

 

This^^^^ Listen to Michael...

Slow down a bit (and I see you guys have been working at this for some time) and see if you can figure out a few things first... Just MHOpinion...

 

The instument panel is dead and we have replaced the fuse and it works for 5 seconds and the blow. Do any of you know what it can be?

 

There are too many possibilities....

If it were me,,, oh boy,,,, I would be working to get to the modules at the lowest lying areas of the car...

Have you been able to pull the security locking module in the trunk under the trunk fuse box? If so, take a picture and post it... Same for the body processing module (BPM). Open the module and take a photo of it. Post it.

I think you will find a reversing sensor Module in the trunk, and one other right at the outer edge inside of the trunk. Open it, send a photo.

You are LUCKY the fuse blew and keeps blowing,,, instead of the circuitry in the dash console frying... The consoles are very very differcult to March up for replacement once ruined...

It seems very likely that the car spent sometime underwater.

 

Could you tell me where the BPM is? And i will send a photo of it thank you

 

Hi Elias, what is the fuse location and number?

 

Fuse is driver side fuse box, fuse F18

 

​​​​​First,,, head first, look under the dash on the RH/Pass side of car. This is for a US LH drive car. If you are unable to see and access, you will need to remove the glove compartment and surrounds.

You will see a silver-ish box roughly 7x9, maybe bigger, maybe smaller. Remove the 2 13mm bolts and pull down. There will be an HVAC vent there, one black Phillips screw, to prevent breaking, remove the venting and set aside... Wiggle, pull down and left and right... Then, OPEN the box.

If it was fresh water (if it was flooded at all) you will/may find evidence of that there...

For the seats... If you look under the front of each seat you will see a little black box. (I think this is true for a 1999 car) to heavyer Gage wires in, two out. Open this little box and by SOME MEANS try and get 12volts on the leads. DO NOT SHORT THE LEADS! If the seat motors are good you should be able to move the seat, without using buttons, forward and back. Only TAP the leads to the wire junction there. Do NOT hold and leave. Reversing the leads on the wire junction will change the direction of seat travel.

If you can't move the seats this way and electric saw is your friend.... Hate to say, but true.

Anyone - please correct my mistakes...
I will be going to my FLOOD car and will send some photos, Elias...

Good luck...

ps... The security module in the trunk/boot is much much easier to access for inspection.

 

This is under the passengers side dash. You may or may NOT need to remove the glove. Not sure. And they are 10mm bolts, sorry... The crumby arrow is pointing to the vent...

 

Mmm. That fuse is dedicated to the instrument packs
Slow blow so not a hard short. Try disconnecting the 3 gauge unit: connector FC79 / 20-WAY MULTILOCK 040 / BLACK as it receives power from the main IP