And you'll be stunned at what the correct battery will cure, lol. Any trac/asc is worked on in this order
1. fresh battery
2. check wheel speed sensor(s) are clean, and abs ring.
3. ABS module pump connector solder joints require attention - see faq.

First mission is put the right battery on it pm me for a cheap heater valve if required, more likely the pump's frozen. Stripping cleaning and re-greasing usually cures it.

 

I saw a video on youtube about cleaning the wheel sensors, looks pretty straightforward, and the guy that sold me the car gave me a link to a used but tested heater control valve which i bought for £25.00 inc postage and have received.
Nice to know you've got a spare one though in case this one is duff.
They look a bit tricky to fit, will i need to bleed anything (apart from my fingers) after i've fitted it?
And is there any thing i need to be particularly careful of?
Got to go to work soon, so won't be back till tomorrow.

 

Hopefully, ( if it appears in the post) this is the best picture i could get of one of the locking nuts.
Since i was taking piccies, i thought i'd post a couple of the drivers side, which was not shown in the EBay listing, but you can't really see the overspray because the car's been rained on.

 

Nice color! Keep at it! MC

 

Almost certainly an aftermarket locknut. Looks as if a key with four lugs is required to undo it. One of those reverse thread locknut removers on eBay and a breaker bar will soon defeat that!

The photos on the eBay listing made it look a respectable car and so do these ones of the driver's side. There won't be many 10 year old XK8's in the UK that haven't had remedial paintwork for gravel rash. Where's the overspray?

Graham

 

Thanks ItalianGuy.

I might pop it down to the tyre place i mentioned earlier then GGG, see if they can get them off and buy some new ones . . . with a key lol.

The overspray is either side of the drivers door, i think the door has been sprayed, and taken off, because it hangs a bit low and doesn't always shut properly.
The hinges look good and strong so i think it just hasn't been re-aligned properly.
Theres also overspray between the upper part of the rear wheel arch, and the point on the rear lights where the white lens meets the red lens.
If you look carefully there's an arc travelling between the arch and the backlights, under the aerial.
More visible to the naked eye than in the photo's, and the rain water probably helps hide it, but hopefully i can blend it with some T-cut and polish.
In it's defense i guess, at least there seems to be very little rust on it anywhere. There's some rust bubbles on the strips around the windows, but the window pillars front and rear are unmarked, none on the wheel arches or sills, no holes in the floor lol.
There's a bit of surface rust on the inside floor of the spare wheel well, and one of the plug holes is missing there, which may be the cause.
Looks like for most of it's life it must have been well cared for, and the powder coated brake calipers suggest someone was prepared to invest a little just to make it look nice.
Perhaps it's just been let down a bit recently, in terms of care.
I live in hope lol.

 

If you are in a pinch and you have locking lug-nuts without the remover I would give the gator grip socket a try and see if it fills the voids and turns the nut. It should do the same for an inside fit as it does an outside fit. All indications lead me to believe it will. This is a link Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

 

Hopefully it's a one-off issue that a tyre garage can fix without too much trouble.
But if they can't, i'll try the Gator Grip.
Thanks Gus.

 

They must often have customers coming in with no locknut key. This is one time you do want to meet a gorilla with an air wrench.

Have a look at eBay UK. There's 5 sets (4 locknuts + key) of long Jaguar locknuts listed at £22 a set by a specialist Jaguar breaker in Romford. Undoubtedly will be more available if you widen the search. Make sure you get the right length.

Graham

 

Just to return to the ABS light. That system is not needed for you to stop safely unless you skid hard in the rain or snow. My Volvo 740 uses the same module, subject to the same solder failures. I've been too lazy to remove it and fix it. For the past 5+ years of driving in New England ice and snow it's not been a problem. Of course, growing up with rear-drive cars with old tires does improve that aspect of car handling skills. Concentrate on removing those valve covers and checking the tensioners before your car craps out for good. It's very easy to do, lots of help here. With a little more bravery you can replace them yourself, but make it a priority to check them, no matter what paper trail you have.

 

[quote]
This is one time you do want to meet a gorilla with an air wrench.

Found the Jaguar locknut sets, are they any good compared to other sets?
I assume then Mike, that the Auto Stability Control is Jaguar's term for what everyone else calls ABS?
I definitely don't want the engine grenading on me, so i'll check out inspecting the camchains and guides as soon as i've sorted out the problems i already know of with the car.
There's a few of them to keep me going lol.
I've messaged the seller through EBay about the keys that haven't arrived, and he says he's been away for a week. (last correspondence with him was 29th Feb).
I've also asked him if he sent off the logbook yet because i'm waiting on it.
He hasn't replied yet though. Fingers crossed.
I've been looking through the links about the heater control valve unit too, but can't seem to find any details about fitting it.
Does it go by a different name by any chance?
Couldn't even find it in my neighbours JTIS.

Edit: Messed up onn the quote attempt GGG, i'll get the hang of it eventually lol.

 

1. Jaguar locknuts - good enough to keep the wheels on.
Looking at the aftermarket options available, I doubt any of them would take the Jaguar locknut cover to match the remainder of the wheel nuts.

2. ASC = Auto Stability Control; ABS = Anti-lock Braking System

3. V5 - I've been waiting for reply to a 'previous owner' enquiry from DVLA for nearly five weeks so they must have a backlog at the moment.

4. Heater Control Valve - see page 2 for diagram of where this fits in the heating system

JTIS - Heater System Components.pdf

Graham

 

I have JTIS but have not used it for a year! I do not know what you have going on but I hope this will help.
This is a little information on the pump and hoses and valve. From what I can see it is easier to access the pump from under the car the valve is mounted on the firewall. If you look just to the right of the TB you will see it. I did take my pump apart for my xj6 (nearly the same pump) and have a photo of it. The pump is not a direct drive from the motor, the motor and the pump are separated by a plate as the motor turns the magnet attached to it, it rotates the pump on the other side of the plate. Most of the time you will find sludge blocking the pump from rotating or the motor brushes are worn. You can replace the brushes but it takes a little skill in making ones that can fit.
Pump location http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...ood1999XK8.jpg
Xj6 Pump JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
I hope this helps!

I just opened Graham’s attachment and I think I might have provided the same info. Sorry!

 

Even if the chavs try to remove them?

You've spoilt my day now with the 5 weeks comment
I'm not waiting that long to start getting her roadworthy.
If it's not here by the end of the week i'm gonna give up and go buy a battery.
Just have to try to think of something else to bribe the dealer with for the history.
I know where it is @ heater valve, it's getting it in and out that worries me lol.
I say that, having neglected to look at the attachment yet, which i'll do now.

 

Gus,

Photos 1 through 6 are the only way I want to see one of those pumps again. Photos 6 through 9 are back to knuckle skinning territory.

Graham

 

You got in there Gus while i was replying to GGG, so didn't see your post till after.
Heater valve looks the same, but you've shown me what the pump by the gearbox looks like now

Perhaps i should have bought a push bike instead

 

Oh dear, that bad is it? @ never wanting to have to fit another one, and knuckle skinning.
I can see this car's going to be an education of the kind i was hoping to avoid.
I should have at least bought one that worked

 

I bet you guys thought i'd abandoned the forums, but you're not so lucky
Actually the motherboard of my computer died, so after a week deciding what kind of new PC i should get, i ordered a new one from a uk suppliers called PcSpecialist, on 24th March.
I'm still waiting for it and they "estimate" delivery around the end of next week. . . . . next time i'll build it myself.
So this is a quick update from a friends computer.

Bought a battery of the type mentioned in earlier post(s).
Did hard reset, and heater started working, no need for heater control valve unit or auxilliary water pump.
All instrument illumination bulbs had blown, so i replaced them and have instrument lights. Still missing some of the warning lights though.
Second hand washer pump fixed the washers.
Took the car to JLC in Herne Hill, London SE24, wandered in to the workshop and started chatting to one of the mechanics, who came out to look at the car while i explained the circumstances under which i'd bought it. Have to say that the guy was great and gave the impression he had all the time in the world for me.
So i booked the car in for a diagnostics check for the 12th April.
I've since had to delay the booking till the 19th because i drove the car to work twice, and found out the front discs and pads were warped, and the rear pads were almost down to the backing plate.
Expecting new discs and rear pads to arrive tomorrow.
Front pads will have to be found from elsewhere because they didn't have pads for the calipers of 325ml discs in stock.
It may be a week or so before i can contribute more to this thread, but by then i will (hopefully) have my new pc, the car will have had the new discs/pads fitted, and the diagnostics should be either done, or at least imminent.
Just leaves the slow oil leak from front of engine, which might be the crank seal, and checking the cam chain tensioners, plus whatever JLC say about the warning LED lights.
Back soon

 

It's all progress, thanks for the update.

If it is the seal it may be worth thinking about doing all the tensioners at the same time.

 

Finally got my new computer now, and spent most of the evening trying to download JTIS from mediafire, which i've now managed, and have it up and running for Win 7 & 64 bit.
So a big thank you for the JTIS and 64 bit instructions guys.

Forgot to add previously that i also got my locking wheel nuts off for a tenner a wheel from the biggest tyre place i could find in my area, who had a 4 pronged removal socket and a big hammer.
Replaced them with the Evo tri-locks, which were the best i could find for the 1/2" 20mm studs.
I don't know if i could afford the chains and tensioners just yet Norri, although it would probably make sense if i could, since it seems the fans and radiator have to come out for the crank seal anyway.
I should know more when she goes in to JLC's on Thursday.
Did i mention they also gave me the radio code for free?