xk8 conv headliner labor time?
#1
xk8 conv headliner labor time?
Guys-
I'm thinking about changing the stained headliner in my 99 XK8 convertible. For you DIY guys, how long did it take you? And/or do you know about how many hours the job calls for at an upholstery shop? I did download the JITS procedure that was posted on this forum.
One other question - I'd like to check the condition of my hoses at the top latch, but am a bit unsure how to get the top cover off to view the latch assembly. I took the two middle screws out, and whereas I can't really "see" anything else holding it on, I know it's something but don't want to start pulling on stuff if it's something simple that I just am not seeing at first glance. Any pointers? Thanks -
I'm thinking about changing the stained headliner in my 99 XK8 convertible. For you DIY guys, how long did it take you? And/or do you know about how many hours the job calls for at an upholstery shop? I did download the JITS procedure that was posted on this forum.
One other question - I'd like to check the condition of my hoses at the top latch, but am a bit unsure how to get the top cover off to view the latch assembly. I took the two middle screws out, and whereas I can't really "see" anything else holding it on, I know it's something but don't want to start pulling on stuff if it's something simple that I just am not seeing at first glance. Any pointers? Thanks -
Last edited by blast20; 03-09-2012 at 09:25 PM.
#2
If you do it yourself, allow an entire weekend, and take pictures as you disassenble to make assembly easier. You can ignore the JTIS instructions to remove the top seals..this is totally unecessary.
You will need a drill and a pop-rivet tool. Make sure you get an aftermarket liner that has the plastic bits already sewn in, although you will still need to transfer the rear window frame from the old one. The window frame is sewn in, but it is acceptable to glue the new one with headliner spray adhesive.
Get a pillow for your knees...trust me, you'll need it.
This is a detailed and fussy job, leave it to an upholstery shiop unless you are really motivated.
As far as removing the rail, you need to remove the plastic rivets at each end (be prepared, they might crack), and then there are two more phillips screws at each end hidden under the weatherstrip. They actually have weatherstrip adhesive over them, and you need to gently push the adheasive off with a flatblade screwdriver to gain accress to remove them.
PM me if you want to swing by Arlington and I can give you some more pointers.
You will need a drill and a pop-rivet tool. Make sure you get an aftermarket liner that has the plastic bits already sewn in, although you will still need to transfer the rear window frame from the old one. The window frame is sewn in, but it is acceptable to glue the new one with headliner spray adhesive.
Get a pillow for your knees...trust me, you'll need it.
This is a detailed and fussy job, leave it to an upholstery shiop unless you are really motivated.
As far as removing the rail, you need to remove the plastic rivets at each end (be prepared, they might crack), and then there are two more phillips screws at each end hidden under the weatherstrip. They actually have weatherstrip adhesive over them, and you need to gently push the adheasive off with a flatblade screwdriver to gain accress to remove them.
PM me if you want to swing by Arlington and I can give you some more pointers.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 03-10-2012 at 06:43 AM.
#3
Thanks for the reply, and I will probably stay away from the DIY job on the headliner and get a quote from the local shop. It's not a "must do" right now, but something I may do at some point.
I'll take a look at that front rail....I assume I'll be able to get some similar rivets from the local parts place to replace mine if they crack. Is it safe to say that I'll be able to get a pretty good visual idea on the condition of my hoses at the latch once I get that thing off? Thanks again - I may hit you up in Arlington one day if I'm in the area. I just did a ton of work to this thing to possibly prep it for sale, as I acquired another convertible last year from a good client of mine who moved overseas, and I'm having to make a choice or which one to keep. With kids, it's hard to justify one convertible at times, much less two! I've gotten somewhat attached to the Jag, had a full paint job done on it last year to factory color, and it was a special order color to begin with new, so it's a pretty rare example form that standpoint. We'll see what happens....just trying to check some other maintenance items while I'm at it and figured it was a good time to check the hoses.
I'll take a look at that front rail....I assume I'll be able to get some similar rivets from the local parts place to replace mine if they crack. Is it safe to say that I'll be able to get a pretty good visual idea on the condition of my hoses at the latch once I get that thing off? Thanks again - I may hit you up in Arlington one day if I'm in the area. I just did a ton of work to this thing to possibly prep it for sale, as I acquired another convertible last year from a good client of mine who moved overseas, and I'm having to make a choice or which one to keep. With kids, it's hard to justify one convertible at times, much less two! I've gotten somewhat attached to the Jag, had a full paint job done on it last year to factory color, and it was a special order color to begin with new, so it's a pretty rare example form that standpoint. We'll see what happens....just trying to check some other maintenance items while I'm at it and figured it was a good time to check the hoses.
Last edited by blast20; 03-10-2012 at 08:35 AM.
#4
You will get some idea of the condition from the top, but you really cannot do a complete evaluation without removing the interior header trim also. If the outer black sheath penetrates easily with your fingernail or is peeling, its days are numbered.
#5
#6
The factory units also have all the plastic bits presewn in place, including the rear window frame...even the most complete aftermarket ones require transfering the rear window frame with all the extra labor involved.
#7
Thanks guys - I'll hopefully at least get a decent look at the hoses, but may also pop off the interior top piece, which doesn't look all that big of a deal to do. I'll also make sure I ask the local interior shop if they've ever done one, so hopefully they'll know what they're getting into!
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#9
Two things:
I usually look at the instructions and try to estimate how long it will take me to do it myself. Then I triple it. And still, it usually takes me twice as long as my tripled estimate.
Getting to the hyd hoses is easy. You found the two screws on the top metal piece. There are two more screws, one on each end. Those screws are underneath a piece of rubber molding. There's a rubber "plug" that is a part of the molding that is pressed into a hole on each end of the metal piece. If you wiggle the plug back and forth you pull it out, and then access the screw underneath. I made a video a while back on how to do it but I never uploaded it. I'll see if I can find it and upload it to youtube.
I usually look at the instructions and try to estimate how long it will take me to do it myself. Then I triple it. And still, it usually takes me twice as long as my tripled estimate.
Getting to the hyd hoses is easy. You found the two screws on the top metal piece. There are two more screws, one on each end. Those screws are underneath a piece of rubber molding. There's a rubber "plug" that is a part of the molding that is pressed into a hole on each end of the metal piece. If you wiggle the plug back and forth you pull it out, and then access the screw underneath. I made a video a while back on how to do it but I never uploaded it. I'll see if I can find it and upload it to youtube.
#11
So I found those two screws on the edges behind the weather stripping and I had that front plate off in less than 10 minutes. That said, my hoses actually look like they are in perfect condition, even at the fittings. Are there instances where people have had NO issues, and their hoses have stayed good as new, even over time? I did order the parts for the resistor pack that lowers the hydraulic pressure on the system, so I'm hoping that adding that in addition to the quality of my hoses, I should be in good shape. Crossing my fingers at least....
#12
So I found those two screws on the edges behind the weather stripping and I had that front plate off in less than 10 minutes. That said, my hoses actually look like they are in perfect condition, even at the fittings. Are there instances where people have had NO issues, and their hoses have stayed good as new, even over time? I did order the parts for the resistor pack that lowers the hydraulic pressure on the system, so I'm hoping that adding that in addition to the quality of my hoses, I should be in good shape. Crossing my fingers at least....
#13
I assume that if your headliner is stained(like mine) your top is probably either leaking or weeping water causing your headliner to stain. Are you planning to replace your top too? If you don't you will get staining again. I'm planning on a new top and headliner shortly...'01,XK8, 63k miles. I had the hose replaced a while ago.
#14
I assume that if your headliner is stained(like mine) your top is probably either leaking or weeping water causing your headliner to stain. Are you planning to replace your top too? If you don't you will get staining again. I'm planning on a new top and headliner shortly...'01,XK8, 63k miles. I had the hose replaced a while ago.
The headliners often get stained from the deteriorating foam backing (usally a reddish brown color stain). I replaced my headliner 2 years ago and still have the original top. I've been out in the rain, and the staining has not reappeared. That is not to say yours might not be weeping...but these tops are more watertight than they might appear.
Last edited by WhiteXKR; 03-12-2012 at 07:10 AM.
#15
Luckily, I have not had any water issues and my top is in great shape....but I have noticed a couple places with the "dusty" orange inner liner detioriating and coming through, so I'm positive that is indeed the issue. It's not a must-do item at the moment, but at least I'm able to see that there is no "cleaning" that I can do to solve the problem, as I'd be wasting my time.
#16
#17
Using the tonneau cover is worth the 60 seconds it takes to install. It stops most of the wind buffetting that hammers the headliner, and it helps to cut down on the road vibration that is the eventual enemy of all convertible tops. You should really train yourself to use your tonneau cover every time the top is down....
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