XK8 Convertible
#21
#22
No I do not know. It has been suggested that temperature was part of the problem but never verified. We have taken several surveys but not one on temperature.
#23
I wish to elaborate on the window issue and why I am not one to ignore locking the roof.
When the roof is closed properly the rams are extended causing the roof linkage and cables to pull tight and lock into position. When the roof is not locked it is free to move and flex and that movement is distributed to the windows and the regulators attached to them. This movement/vibration when sticking a bump could/would be transferred to the windows and this is a problem and possible additional repair. If for any reason pressure is placed on the roof your windows will be forced to push it back up or if the windows are up they will be compromised. If you are in an accident your roof is not rigid as it should be.
Yes the windows can be closed but do you want to take that chance?
When the roof is closed properly the rams are extended causing the roof linkage and cables to pull tight and lock into position. When the roof is not locked it is free to move and flex and that movement is distributed to the windows and the regulators attached to them. This movement/vibration when sticking a bump could/would be transferred to the windows and this is a problem and possible additional repair. If for any reason pressure is placed on the roof your windows will be forced to push it back up or if the windows are up they will be compromised. If you are in an accident your roof is not rigid as it should be.
Yes the windows can be closed but do you want to take that chance?
#24
Survey links
Convertible or Coupe https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-coupe-33208/
Hose leak Model and year https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-years-39014/
Convertible or Coupe https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-coupe-33208/
Hose leak Model and year https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-years-39014/
#25
Jon, if I were you, since your car is fairly new (for the older gen body style), I'd select either the resistor or the pressure relief valve and get one installed. Its the spike in peak pressure at the end of the cycle that stresses those hoses at the fittings in the header (where the heat degrades it slowly and lowers its burst rating) With pressure relief, that spike is greatly reduced, which can only extend your hose life. Both options have links in the FAQ thread, and there are pros for each one...not to mention a division in the ranks on which is the 'preferred'.
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