So, I can check if chain has jumped a tooth by checking in the following fashion? This is a picture I found from a 2001 Lincoln LS 3.9L

 

That's right, both flats should line up with a straight edge over them.

 

hi,
you can see from the first image you provided the timming is out. looks as if shoe came of and went under chain and made it jump a tooth.

you will need to use cam locking and flywheel locking tools to reset timming. the chains will need replaceing as will tensioners.

you will also need to look for the lost shoe or bits. if you cant see these they will probally be in sump or sucked in to the oil pick up. so best to remove sump and oil pick up and remove all the bits.

If you decide to replace upper chains which looks like you do, you may well be wise to do primary ones and primary tensioners too, as you will have to remove front cover I believe to replace upper chains.



A good read of threads on this will make the job easy to carry out with care. looks as if you are lucky, as it may be you have found a problem easy to fix.

Best wishes

Stephen

 

They are obviously plastic and I do not see the external spring of the second generation plastic tensioner so I would opine that they are the ones originally installed.

 

I inspected the cams closer. Looks like there are a few small marks (2 or 3) that were etched into the cams and on the head at some point in its life. I rotated the crank to have the driver side cam flat section at the top of its rotation. On the driver side (left bank), the cam on the top matches with the three notches on the cam and the head. The bottom cam has two notches, but they are off. The bottom cam notches are slightly past were they are indicated on the head and the flat section of the cam appears like the lower cam is slightly off (past its mark). So, it is sounding more like the chain jumped a tooth or two. Here are pics, I tried to take the pictures looking straight at the head.

Right side lower (passenger):

Right side upper (passenger):

Left side upper (upper):


Left side upper (lower):


Left side (driver):

 

Also the other chain should not be slack at all. the tensioners look different as one side has shoe on top and other side has shoe on bottom. the slack side tensioner has probally lost its shoe as well.

Stephen

 

Marks don't count! The cam alignment tool locks the flats in dead parallel alignment, then you tension the chain and lock down the exhaust cam sprocket bolt.

Order the tools and parts and all will be good again.

 

Maybe I broke a record, 159,500 miles on original 1st generation tensioners without catastrophic failure. I will go order the tensioners, I found other posts that mention Ford part #s. Also, where is the cheapest place to get a set of tools that I need? I'm not good at fabricating tools, so would be looking for the set of everything I would need, at least to do secondary tensioners and set timing. I found this set for $285. I've heard of a few places that rent the tools for a couple weeks, but I would like to have flexibility as I am mostly a weekend warrior and 2-3 weeks may not be sufficient if I can only work on it a day here and there.
Timing Tool Kit - 4 Tools - V8.TIMING.TOOLS

 

I've been reading all kinds of threads and realizing that tensioners are an even more common problem than I thought. Thanks for the tip on the missing pieces, they had to go somewhere. I will try to drop the oil pan and check the oil pickup to see what kind of surprises I can find.

 

There have been a number of posts stressing the importance of giving the hydraulic tensioners time to fill with oil when you first start up to prevent the timing chain jumping.
Some folk removed the plugs to stop the engine firing up. Plums suggested a simpler solution of removing the injector fuse which, in my car anyway, is fuse 5, 10A in the engine control fusebox.
You give a few bursts on the starter then put the fuse back in.

 

I took the oil pan and pickup tube off today. It was like a maraca in there, little bits of red colored plastic. The pickup screen was practically filled with bits, and was also cracked so it looks like I will have to get a pickup tube. Surprisingly the pickup tube was plastic too. What's with all of these plastic bits in such a nice quality car?

I also was able to confirm that the bottom shoe on the passenger side was missing and chain rubbing on metal. I will order the tensioner and tools and oil pickup tomorrow. I should have plenty to keep me busy in the coming weeks.

 

Hi,
It is such a shame so many of these great looking early models engines are self destructing due to such a poorly designed part. I would look at your chains carefully for wear, both from running on metal and the possibility of them stretching as they jumped causing the timming to be out. If they have stretched they will be weak and potentially not tension properly with new tensioners.

Good luck with the repair.

Best Wishes

Stephen

 

Oil pickup (ebay) and tensioners ordered from online Ford dealer ($55 and $62). I will get the valve cover gaskets the same place I plan on ordering the tools.
Now on to ordering the tools. Assuming I am going to replace the secondary tensioners only, which tool set do I need?
#1
Timing Tool Kit - 4 Tools - V8.TIMING.TOOLS

or #2?
Timing Tool Kit - 6 Tools - V8.STYPE.TOOLS

I know I can rent them, but I'm not sure I will be done with them in time to return, so I will just buy and resell when I am all done.

 

You need #1.

 

Don't forget the new bolts for the tensioners.

 

Thanks, I ordered the tools and new bolts. Hope to work on everything next week. I'm taking it step by step and just waiting on parts right now. Can't wait to hear it come to life once again.

 

Mr. CJ,
I'm new to the forum and local in Greensboro. Was wondering how this worked out for you. I need to inspect my 01 VDP.
Also, just realized your post was only a day old! I'll be patient and wait for you to update the forum. However, if you could use a hand (inexperienced) I'm about 45 minutes away and would love to help (learn).

 

Welcome aboard. Not many Jaguars in this area. Nice to have another local member.
Right now I am just waiting on parts and tools to arrive and will post an update on my progress, which I hope to complete in 2-3 weeks, depending on how much time it takes for the parts to arrive and if I can set aside some time to install.

 

All the parts and tools have arrived!
As I mentioned, I have removed the oil pan and filter screen and saw the pile of tensioner debris shown in the picture. I also discovered that my oil pickup was cracked (it was still attached, but cracked and hanging on). The oil pan also had a dent on it that annoyed me. I received my oil pan replacement (used), pickup tube, and oil pan gasket and installed last night. I'm taking it one step at a time. I got the crankshaft lock installed while I was under the car, that was fun getting that to align perfectly, but I do see now that it is an important step.

I hope to tackle the rest of the tensioner replacement if I can free up some time this weekend.

 

Mr CJ-

With 159.000 miles you very likely have broken plastic guides and primary tensioners also. By doing the secondaries, you are addressing the worst case scenario, but in your car the other parts need to be inspected.