On another note, it appears that one of the best strategies to keep these fuel pumps from failing is simply to drive the vehicle on a regular basis. I always wonder about the folks who decide to hibernate their Jaguars for the winter - are they playing havoc with their fuel pumps (and other components that need regular exercise) by doing so?

 

Oh, and one more thing ... most late vintage Jaguars have their tanks in enclosed positions and are covered with pads. Not really great for cooling to begin with.

 

Déja vu here, Sam. Didn't you try an external non-return valve only to find the downstream pressure got too high?

ps - only just noticed -when did you join the Pastafarians?

 

BLOWERADDICT! YOU ARE A FREAKING GENIUS! Apparently, the fuel line was not accessible and was stuck behind the differential. Go figure! Love those Jaguar engineers! So I followed your advice and strategically cut out the panel above. When finished I simply bent the panel back into place. Saved me hundreds by avoiding to have to drop the rear end. Thanks dude! You are awesome!

 

2001 xk8 convertible:

i'm afraid i have to keep this topic alive. Car wouldn't start and fuel rail is empty. I wouldn't care with the pump being a wear item... eventually it will fail, BUT i replaced mine two years (20,000miles) ago. So let me ask.. is there only one pump relay? I checked one in the trunk and it clicks/ lights up test probe. Does anyone have a suggestion on a reliable replacement pump? I'm sure not using another "jag" pump.

 

On an XK8 there is just one pump and one relay, on an XKR (2002 and earlier) there are two.

I am surprised an OEM Jag pump failed after 2 years. Usually they start to go after about 10. You might want to investigate the wiring inside the tank before you invest in another pump. The so called 'link lead' contains an electronic noise filter that sometimes goes open, especially if it was stressed by the previous pump failure.

 

Just a story... many years ago we had an army instructor pilot who had bad facial burn scars. I assumed that it was the result of a bad day in Vietnam. Not so, he was removing a fuel tank from a VW bus when his drop light fell, broke the bulb and ignited the vapors. Just a reminder...

 

Wow.. it usually IS something stupid that gets you. Thank you for the safety reminder. Anyone have a picture of this "link lead" ?
Do you just splice in another one? and if the wires show damage can you use 'normal' splices for the repair? The wife revealed to me that about a month ago the car felt like her foot had slipped off the pedal for an instant. It came right back so she didn't think much of it.. guess it happened twice.

 

The link lead is a dealer item and it is pricey for what it is; I think around $100.

Some people have reported no adverse effects just replacing the wires without the filter module, or cutting it out and splicing the wires, but I would definitely think twice about it if you listen to AM radio.

Some fuel pumps come with new wires. If you replace the wire, it needs to be fuel proof (such as Teflon or Tefzel).

 

Is there a way to determine if the "link lead" filter is bad. I had my pump replaced last week and something failed (same symptoms) again yesterday.

 

This weekend I managed to change both pumps in my 2001 XKR without removing fuel tank or even having to loosen the straps. All done from inside the boot and through the sub woofer hole. It can be done.

Best regards

Bob

 

Bob
Not on the convertible. But you can cut an access hole. I've done it both ways, the access hole is much simpler. Be sure to make a steel access cover if you cut a hole in the shelf for fire protection.

 

Ref.2000 xk8 convert fuel pump issue.
Can I use a freestanding fuel pump to bypass in-tank pump ? If so, please share any mfg's., model #'s or specs I can track down. If I can only fix by replacing the tank pump, any suggestions on replacement pumps ? Is it possible that the $15.99 on sale pump is as good as the $79.99 or the $238.00 pump ? So they say !
Please share any thoughts that could help, I'm a first timer at this.

 

Our 2001 XK8 has a series of slots in the rear deck that separates the cabin from the trunk/fuel tank. That means there is no need to go crazy with the new cover. There is no fire safety as any fuel released into the trunk can easily reach the cabin through the vent slots. Certainly, you should cover the hole, but it is a waste of time to seal it in any way whatsoever.

 

I opted to cut a hole in the rear deck of my wife's convertible. It was very cramped, and the only tool that effectively worked was the Harbor Freight air nibbler. Once completed, I cut a cover from one of my wife's sheet pans (with her permission, of course. I'm not suicidal, even if I do work on Jaguars.)
A few pop rivets and Bob's your uncle. Since it is impossible to view from the trunk, and completely covered by the rear deck upholstery, then, as Julia Child said "Ah well, no one will ever know".

A tip: the coating on the rear deck metal chipped off quite easily with an air chisel and made nibbling much easier.

And to those that are appalled by the butchery of a hole, I would point out that most Jag purists consider our XK8s to be Fords, so let's all relax and enjoy our cars, ok?

Rev Sam- colanders on my brother.

 

Hello to all fellow XK8 owner/mechanics (full time)! My 2004 XK8 convertible has developed an intermittent code for high fuel pressure, PO 193 as I recall. It was very quick to return until I replaced the sensor with a new one and then became very intermittent. It seems to only appear after a long highway stretch. I am now concerned that I'll have to crawl my fat 66 year old self around under the car to remove the fuel tank/pump. I have seen references to cutting an access hole but none to specific year models. Does this work on an 04 convertible? I have no concerns about hacking on the car as I can't drive it more than 50 feet without a CEL or some kind of problem. The car has 109k miles on it and it's absolutely gorgeous or I'd get rid of it in a heartbeat. I'll be checking for connector issues and such before I tackle a pump but want to "gird my loins" for the inevitable if it comes to that. Little help now!?

 

I would like to share my solution/work-around regarding the topic.

Last month I, too, performed a fuel pump replacement without removing the tank. Patient was a 2001 XK8 (so only one pump). It being a coupé, I had looked into working through the subwoofer hole, only to find that the car wasn't fitted with the big sound system. There was an opening in the board itself, but it was covered with a "liner support" (for the lack of a better term). Hence I decided to do the job from the boot, with room for half an arm, and in an awkward angle.

Long story short: It can be done. I should have cleared out the float gauge first for extra room, but even so I managed to get the pump out.

Mounting the new pump turned out to be a bit trickier. I wasn't able to hold it in place within the tank and simultaneously fit the screw that would secure it and the baffle plate. In the end I screwed in a stainless treaded bar (M5, about 15 mm, ends of course polished -- do not use a grub screw, as that type is not meant to experience tensile load). Then the pump array was positioned onto it and a non-locking stainless collar nut tightened everything down. Worked like a charm, and Jaguar should have used a fixed bar/stud in the first place.

I hope my finding may help somebody else down the road. A big thank to this forum for the valuable information on this and other Jag topics.